Shooting Left
03-20-2013, 10:15 AM
#12
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Southern TN
Posts: 1,018
Go get yourself a set of Tru Glo Fiber Optics sights. Make sure they are the clamp on and not magnetic. Measure the width of your rib and they do make a set of clamp ons as I had them on my 11-87.
Also make sure they allow for Windage and Elevation ~ means you can move the back sight up and down or left and right.
The front sight fits right in front of your current shotgun bead - so there is no reason to take it off.
Patterning
I start patterning using trap loads. I use a cheap box as the recoil is less, the cost of shooting quite a bit is less as all I am trying to do is dial in my sights so I can punch out a quarter sized (25 cent piece) dot out of my cardboard at 10 yards. That is where I start.
When that dot is completely gone I move back to 20 yards to check my pattern. Still good? Great.
Now I switch to the second target on this link.
Link
http://lewand.tripod.com/turkeytargets.html
Now I will adjust my sights or my scope - both are really the same so I can consistently put the bottom center of my circular pattern at the point where the skin starts and the feathers stop on a turkeys head. Why? It is one consistent aim point that all turkeys have andis very easy to see.
The Picture I made is crude but what I am after is completely encircling the head with my shot cone. Once I am happy doing this with my trap loads I do switch to my Turkey Loads. I have found that I needed no further adjustments to my sight I chose at all.
I then shoot at 30, 40, and 50. My rule is 8 to 10 hits within the bones of the neck, skull or eye. All those are clean kill shots. Any less than that and I have developed my maximum range.
Not only do yo save ammo cost - you save yoru shoulder too.
One last thing - I do use a bench to develop the pattern - then go to my sitting position to use my turkey loads.
Hope that makes sense - Be Safe and Good Luck out there!
Dave......JW
Also make sure they allow for Windage and Elevation ~ means you can move the back sight up and down or left and right.
The front sight fits right in front of your current shotgun bead - so there is no reason to take it off.
Patterning
I start patterning using trap loads. I use a cheap box as the recoil is less, the cost of shooting quite a bit is less as all I am trying to do is dial in my sights so I can punch out a quarter sized (25 cent piece) dot out of my cardboard at 10 yards. That is where I start.
When that dot is completely gone I move back to 20 yards to check my pattern. Still good? Great.
Now I switch to the second target on this link.
Link
http://lewand.tripod.com/turkeytargets.html
Now I will adjust my sights or my scope - both are really the same so I can consistently put the bottom center of my circular pattern at the point where the skin starts and the feathers stop on a turkeys head. Why? It is one consistent aim point that all turkeys have andis very easy to see.
The Picture I made is crude but what I am after is completely encircling the head with my shot cone. Once I am happy doing this with my trap loads I do switch to my Turkey Loads. I have found that I needed no further adjustments to my sight I chose at all.
I then shoot at 30, 40, and 50. My rule is 8 to 10 hits within the bones of the neck, skull or eye. All those are clean kill shots. Any less than that and I have developed my maximum range.
Not only do yo save ammo cost - you save yoru shoulder too.
One last thing - I do use a bench to develop the pattern - then go to my sitting position to use my turkey loads.
Hope that makes sense - Be Safe and Good Luck out there!
Dave......JW
03-20-2013, 01:04 PM
#14
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,436
One other thing I forgot to mention of what a set of Tru Glo Front bead and Back Ramp do for you and is really important -
It helps you keep your head down on the stock as you are focused to put that front bead directly in center of the back block and on that spot on the neck of that bird!
I went to this for that reason. I missed a bird and I figured I had lifted my head and peeked!
And shooting today's Extra Full Chokes at close range - less than 10 yards you have a golf ball size of shot going out there......it will prevent a close up miss!
Ain't nothing worse than blowing the shot only to realise you wounded that turkey and he will not survive - but good luck finding him once he has run off!!!!!
I am trying to help you, NOT make the mistakes I made ~ sadly to say!
DAve....JW
It helps you keep your head down on the stock as you are focused to put that front bead directly in center of the back block and on that spot on the neck of that bird!
I went to this for that reason. I missed a bird and I figured I had lifted my head and peeked!
And shooting today's Extra Full Chokes at close range - less than 10 yards you have a golf ball size of shot going out there......it will prevent a close up miss!
Ain't nothing worse than blowing the shot only to realise you wounded that turkey and he will not survive - but good luck finding him once he has run off!!!!!
I am trying to help you, NOT make the mistakes I made ~ sadly to say!
DAve....JW
03-20-2013, 06:10 PM
#15
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 362
JW --- thanks for the great pointers. I ordered some truglo sights today. This will bet first year turkey hunting and want as much knowledge as I can get before I get out there. I have been taking notes...
03-20-2013, 06:23 PM
#16
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,436
Godo for you and luck to you.......and you are doing the right thing - knowing where you gun shoots and knowing your maximum range is a big plus!
Now once you have your Maximum range - learn distances. If I have time (sometimes you need to sit n a hurry) - I'd place a stick out 20 paces sticking up out of the ground as a reference. Now I use a range finder and range certain visual aspects such as an ant mound or a certain tree or bush - so I know. Helps me as I use those as a goal to get the bird too.
Have fun and pay attention - I am taught a lesson or two each yr.
JW
Now once you have your Maximum range - learn distances. If I have time (sometimes you need to sit n a hurry) - I'd place a stick out 20 paces sticking up out of the ground as a reference. Now I use a range finder and range certain visual aspects such as an ant mound or a certain tree or bush - so I know. Helps me as I use those as a goal to get the bird too.
Have fun and pay attention - I am taught a lesson or two each yr.
JW
03-21-2013, 04:16 AM
#17
Typical Buck
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Hatton, Alabama
Posts: 520
If you have a Lead Sled that will help you solve any pulling problems when patterning. JW nailed it. Start with the light loads at close range. Because your pattern is so tight it will give you a very good idea of where to start with your new sight. Make adjustments to your sight at close range and then move back.
As to the 835 that another poster mentioned shooting to one side....I had similar issues with a Mossberg and heard of others having problems. Possibly the fact that they are cheaper made. Being over-boared really helps them pattern extremely well but they are erratic.
As to the 835 that another poster mentioned shooting to one side....I had similar issues with a Mossberg and heard of others having problems. Possibly the fact that they are cheaper made. Being over-boared really helps them pattern extremely well but they are erratic.
03-21-2013, 10:37 AM
#18
Super Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: South Central Missouri
Posts: 3,112
Listen to JW, he knows his stuff. I have a true glow on my 20ga 870, and the 12ga 870 has dual beads to line up. I rarely use the 20, as it was for my daughter, but it shoots just as well.
03-22-2013, 04:17 PM
#19
Fork Horn
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: evans. colorado
Posts: 106
8 " off
blame everything but the shooter. anyway, it's good for business. one more suggestion if nothing else works, next time you load the gun turn the shell 180 deg. that will correct it for sure
cheers
cheers
