gobbler decoy
#2
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Illinois
Posts: 143
i got a Bmobile but i have used it a couple of ways, i set it out with a couple of hens. also just by its self. my buddy has one as well and we have also put two of them out with about 6 hen decoys. iv killed over all sets. for the most part i use it everytime i turkey hunt. hope this helps
#3
My best results over the last couple season using the Pretty Boy have been to place the decoy at about 10 yards and FACING my location. This will pull nearly any Tom in and it forces him ultra close in an attempt to face the decoy.
#4
I'll try to talk you through it by using the link to the picture of the decoy.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...box.jsp.form23
Cut along the line where the "colored portion" of the wing meets the black body, it's a fairly obvious line in the "shell" of the decoy.
Just cut a "slit" along that wing line.......................make it a hair longer so it can "slip" in the "slit" you made.
Place your hand on the underside of the "slit" and push on the "shell" of the decoy and slide the FANNED wing in; the tension will hold it in place.
You know that you have to "preserve" the tail & the wings with salt or borax in a "fanned-out" position for +/- 3 weeks first - Right ?
One thing is that the stake that the decoy comes with is a little short for the "real" wings; so that the wings touch the ground.
You can either cut the bottom of the wings or push the wings futher up into the "shell" of the decoy.
I liked the wings touching the ground this past weekend because it was really windy, and the decoy was moving plenty without "bobbing" on it's stake.
Lastly, make a cardboard "panel" for the tail and wings to transport them back and forth into the field.
It come with a carry back pack styled bag (put your cardboard "panel" in the carry bag with the "panel" flat against your back)....................go get'em !!!
BTW - I've used "other" decoys plenty..................not anymore !
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...box.jsp.form23
Cut along the line where the "colored portion" of the wing meets the black body, it's a fairly obvious line in the "shell" of the decoy.
Just cut a "slit" along that wing line.......................make it a hair longer so it can "slip" in the "slit" you made.
Place your hand on the underside of the "slit" and push on the "shell" of the decoy and slide the FANNED wing in; the tension will hold it in place.
You know that you have to "preserve" the tail & the wings with salt or borax in a "fanned-out" position for +/- 3 weeks first - Right ?
One thing is that the stake that the decoy comes with is a little short for the "real" wings; so that the wings touch the ground.
You can either cut the bottom of the wings or push the wings futher up into the "shell" of the decoy.
I liked the wings touching the ground this past weekend because it was really windy, and the decoy was moving plenty without "bobbing" on it's stake.
Lastly, make a cardboard "panel" for the tail and wings to transport them back and forth into the field.
It come with a carry back pack styled bag (put your cardboard "panel" in the carry bag with the "panel" flat against your back)....................go get'em !!!
BTW - I've used "other" decoys plenty..................not anymore !
#5
Fork Horn
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Stitzer, Wisconsin
Posts: 201
I'll try to talk you through it by using the link to the picture of the decoy.
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...box.jsp.form23
Cut along the line where the "colored portion" of the wing meets the black body, it's a fairly obvious line in the "shell" of the decoy.
Just cut a "slit" along that wing line.......................make it a hair longer so it can "slip" in the "slit" you made.
Place your hand on the underside of the "slit" and push on the "shell" of the decoy and slide the FANNED wing in; the tension will hold it in place.
You know that you have to "preserve" the tail & the wings with salt or borax in a "fanned-out" position for +/- 3 weeks first - Right ?
One thing is that the stake that the decoy comes with is a little short for the "real" wings; so that the wings touch the ground.
You can either cut the bottom of the wings or push the wings futher up into the "shell" of the decoy.
I liked the wings touching the ground this past weekend because it was really windy, and the decoy was moving plenty without "bobbing" on it's stake.
Lastly, make a cardboard "panel" for the tail and wings to transport them back and forth into the field.
It come with a carry back pack styled bag (put your cardboard "panel" in the carry bag with the "panel" flat against your back)....................go get'em !!!
BTW - I've used "other" decoys plenty..................not anymore !
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...box.jsp.form23
Cut along the line where the "colored portion" of the wing meets the black body, it's a fairly obvious line in the "shell" of the decoy.
Just cut a "slit" along that wing line.......................make it a hair longer so it can "slip" in the "slit" you made.
Place your hand on the underside of the "slit" and push on the "shell" of the decoy and slide the FANNED wing in; the tension will hold it in place.
You know that you have to "preserve" the tail & the wings with salt or borax in a "fanned-out" position for +/- 3 weeks first - Right ?
One thing is that the stake that the decoy comes with is a little short for the "real" wings; so that the wings touch the ground.
You can either cut the bottom of the wings or push the wings futher up into the "shell" of the decoy.
I liked the wings touching the ground this past weekend because it was really windy, and the decoy was moving plenty without "bobbing" on it's stake.
Lastly, make a cardboard "panel" for the tail and wings to transport them back and forth into the field.
It come with a carry back pack styled bag (put your cardboard "panel" in the carry bag with the "panel" flat against your back)....................go get'em !!!
BTW - I've used "other" decoys plenty..................not anymore !