3" vs. 3.5"
 

Apologies in advance if this has been discussed in the past, but is there reason that a person should try 3" shells in a 3 1/2" chambered gun for turkey hunting? I've heard plenty of guys say they are more accurate with 2 3/4" slugs vs. 3" slugs (lower velocity). Is there any reason to believe that reduced velocity will pattern better in turkey loads?

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

Had some questions of 3" over 3 1/2" myself. Think when I get back from Iraq and if it is before season, I am going to try a 3" shell of one brand and a 3 1/2" and do some comparison. I am also sure that the 3 1/2" would have more pellets which if the gun patterns the same or close to 3" should put more pellets in the 10" circle. Hope that makes sense! [8D]

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

one thing about the 3 1/2" , is a sore sholder.[:o][:o]

I have tried them both, went back to my 3" BPS. some times the different shells will pattern better in 3" than the 3 1/2. I would get some 3" in Win; Federal ; and Rem. and some 3 1/2 in what ever I could get. try them all at 25 , 35 , and 40 yards to see which you gun likes.

some guns like one brand over another.you may even get a better pattern in 2 3/4" over the others.
I got a Mossberg 835 in 3 1/2 and was sorry I ever did.(It was a junk gun) but thats another story. the BPS 3" with Winchester #6 shot patterened better than any other.the extra pellets in the 3 1/2 is only weight,in MHO!

best of luck with what ever you decide.

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

Most of the new HV turkey loads out now have the 3.5
"loadswith 2oz going 1300fps and the 3" loads with 1.75oz going 1300fps... So your going to get more pellets going the same FPS... More pellets should = more hits I would think:)

If your going to buy a new turkeygun I would say get the 3.5... But if you have a 3" then the 3" willget the job done:)

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

You can only kill a turkey so dead. If you can get 3" shells to pattern well, he won't be any deader with a 3.5" shell. Why have the extra expense and punishment?

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

I would like to hear how this tests out, too. I understand that longer shot columns result in more strays, but I have yet to test it. If true though, it would make more sense to go to a larger guage if weight were equal or not an issue. 10 gauge anyone?

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

Patterning....your gun will tell you which one it prefers by the pattern you produce shooting them...some guns just won't pattern with 3.5 as well as 3"...try several including manuf'ers before picking one exclusively.

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

Well, a few of my hunting partners decided they did not like getting kicked anymore by a 3.5 inch "mule" everytime they pulled the trigger :Dand switched back. Aside from pattern considerations, I thought I hadread some time ago thatyou may be athigher risk for detached retina with the 3.5 incher due to the recoil.(see http://www.huntamerica.com/wwwthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=39890&Main=39881
for a generic discussion on eye damage due to recoil). Otherwise, get the best shock-absorbingrecoil pad you can buy for your gun...
-fsh

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

I've dealt with this question among my customers for YEARS! It is a common mis-conception that most 3" guns can equal 3.5" if both are set up properly. I simply haven't found this to be so. BUT the keyword there is "setup properly". ALOT of people who tell you that their guns pattern 3" loads better than 3.5" loads are telling on themselves. How? Because such conditions (same with 2 3/4" vs 3" guns) point to choke restriction. Putting a bigger/faster load through a super tight (under .660 in most guns) will produce blown or "donut ring" patterns with big 3.5" loads. ESPECIALLY when talking about lead alternatives like Hevi-Shot, Nitro, Win. Extended etc...

You can take some .640"-.660" tubes and produce some impressive patterns with 3" guns for sure. But a 3"er is about taxed out pushing 1 3/4oz loads, the superheavy 2oz 3"ers even moreso. Now take that same load (or even 2 1/4oz) and push it faster with a 3 1/2" gun with about a .665"-.673" tube and see what happens. I can PROMISE you that the 3.5" will produce denser patterns and will certainly yield more knockdown at longer ranges.

But this brings me up too another point I often tell my customers. How far are you shooting turkeys? If you are absolutely sworn NOT to shoot over 40 yds then you don't even need a 3" gun. If you are sworn NOT to shoot over 50yds then you will be fine with a 3" gun. IMHO I only recommend a 3 1/2" gun and expensive tubes and lead alternative shot if you desire to cleanly kill in excess of 50yds. And another thing, when developing a longrange load you must consider the consequences of ultra-tight patterns at ranges shorter than 30 yds. I recommend body shots or "feathers only" for such guns in cases like that. You risk completely missing or just wounding a bird (with the "side" of your pattern) if you miss for some reason while taking a head/neck only shot at close range with ultra tight rigs.

Long range shotgunning isn't that different from long range riflery. Certain tools and techniques require different applications and nothing is "perfect" and all around. I have many shotguns of my own and some of my 3" guns are awfully danged good. BUT if you take the time to find that right tube and the right load I believe you will get the maximum out of your 3 1/2" 12ga that merits using them over the other two sizes of 12s!
RA

ps
As for the "detached retina" issue, I have heard that for years but I have yet to see or hear of the first documented case of it and that comes after selling 3 1/2" guns (and 10 ga.s as well) since they first came out in the late 80s! I simply think it is an "old wives tale". My 835 DOES kick harder than ANY of my big magnum rifles (with a Lazzeroni Warbird and 300 Wby being my two hardest hitting rifles) but a Simms slipover and ported Rhino tube (.695") make it very managable and it's not like you are going to be turkey round after turkey round out of it each day... ;)

RE: 3" vs. 3.5"
 

RedAllison,

That's the seemingly well informed answer I was hoping for. If you don't mind, can you pass along your favorite set-up for your 835 (I have an Ulti-Mag as well). It's worked fine for me for the last five years, but like many, I'm always tinkering and I'm sure I haven't yet found the optimal set-up yet (those shells really add up $$$!). You mentioned a ported Rhino tube; what loads do you like to put through that? I was thinking about trying Federal Heavyweight Flitecontrol #7's this year, and have read several posts that indicate a ported "external" tube is not advised. I also have read posts that suggest (as you have) that close shots can be very difficult with these "ultra-tight" loads. Over the past 2 years, while duck and turkey hunting, I've used Hevi-Shot on occasion and I'm a believer - seems to have true extended knock-down power.I had to puta sneek on a non-responsive turkey last year; closed the gap to 45 yards and hammered the 25 pound bird with a 3 1/2" Hevi-Shot #6. Must have hit him just right, because he really didn't move much at all after that; just went down hard. While it worked very well, when I pattern this set-up, the pattern at 40 yards seems fairly loose (and I've tried various chokes Jellyhead, the one that came with the gun , and an Undertaker). I've never bothered to try a 3" in my 835, but was wondering nonetheless if some "magical" pattern would come of it. Thanks for your reply and I'd appreciate hearing more about your turkey set-up.