zeek99

I have T/C Renegades and Hawkens which I normally shoot PRB out of them. I read someplace that a over powder wad would provide better accuracy. Anyone with experience with this good or bad and also is the wad pushed down alone or together with the PRB?

Moosehuntersupreme

There are many who claim this is an extra step that really isn't needed if you are doing everything right.

However there are quite a few, myself included, who have found that their groups, off the bench, leave something to be desired, in spite of all they've tried, or their patches are all torn to shreds, that adding an overpowder wad, of some sort, really does make a difference. That wad can be your last swabing patch bunched up & shoved in on top of your powder, a felt wad, probably lightly lubricated, or my choice, a lubricated leather wad that I punch out myself.
My .58 cal. Rice barrel just wouldn't group well, so I tried my leather wad & things tightened right up. It may have just protected my patches, because instead of being all shredded, they looked re-usable.
YRMV, but it's worth a try. Others may chime in with different wad ideas I haven't mentioned.
Paul

quigleysharps4570

I've a .40, .50 and .54 that all shoot tighter groups using a wad. Felt in the .40 and .50, cardboard in the .54 cal. As for loading them...they're seated separately. When I'm hunting with the little .40 I usually don't take the extra step cause it still shoots minute of squirrel/rabbit head without them

Slowburn

I use an extra patch on my .32 upto my .58. I find it improves the accuracy of my rifles. The felt wads are ok but it's just one more thing to carry, so I prefer the patches.

bronko22000

I've used the felt wad under conicals for improved accuracy but never tried them under PRBs.
As for patches tearing apart I had a GPR that would do that. I did some hand lapping with some J-B compound. Many strokes. And that solved the problem. Sometimes if your patches are burning its just that your patches are too dry. Tearing is likely either burrs in the corners or on the lands of the rifling.

nchawkeye

First off, what do your patches look like after they are shot??? Put a tarp, 20 feet or so in front of your muzzle and look at the patches, if they look like they can be shot again then your gun should group well without an over the powder wad and the correct powder charge...

An over the powder wad is typically used to hid another problem that is going on...The most common reasons for patch shredding or tearing are a sharp crown, sharp rifling, using something other than real black powder, patches that are too thin, too small a ball, a pitted or a rough bore, patches not made of linen or cotton, old patches that are lubed so the fibers have broken down or an excessive powder charge....

By putting a wad, patch or hornets nesting over the powder the gun might shoot better but you have not corrected the problem...

Find the real problem and you won't need the wad...

Muley Hunter

I agree. A wad is a band-aid.

cayugad

Your rifle will answer that. Some rifles shoot better with a wad and some with out. Also the brand of powder you shoot makes a difference. I find that when I shoot T-7 with PRB, a wad increases accuracy because it protects the patch. T-7 can tend to eat patches in rifles. The wad gives it and you that little extra add.

Before you try the wad, remember the load of powder might need to be adjusted too. With a wad I tend to shoot 5 grains more powder then with out. But all rifles are different.

If you have no wads, just take some old T shirt. Tear off a strip and push that down on top of the powder, then set your patch and ball. Old timers used to also use Corn Meal. 20 grains of Corn Meal poured on top of the powder, then the patch and ball also protect the patch. Mountain Men they claim also used paper wasp hive. I actually tried that once. It was fun to try, but made no difference.

So all you can do is try. And let us know your results.

Blackpowdersmoke

I agree nc...

I have used felt over powder wads when shooting conicals for a number of years for improved accuracy but never subscribed to that for a PRB. The only time I tried it was one time I was getting burn through on my patch so my first thought was that I needed a little more lube. After still getting burnt through patches with a greasier patch, I then suspected too thin of patch material or not a tight enough weave to the material. I tried a few shots with a wad and the same patching without the excess lube and got no burn through so my suspicions were confirmed that it was improper patch material to begin with.

I have heard of some using a dry felt or fiber wad between powder and patch to keep lube from contaminating a portion of the powder charge if the rifle is going to remain loaded for a lengthy period of time while hunting, but I don't follow that practice.

If you're getting shredded patches with good patch material it's usually a sign of burrs at the crown or on the edges of the lands. Otherwise it's probably just poor patch material that doesn't have a good tight weave, same as with burnt through patches.

And I always inspect my shot patches when I shoot. No matter if I know they're made from good material.

BPS

zeek99

OK: Thanks for the info. My patches are fine; no holes; shredding and only are slightly blackened. Probably could use them again but I never do. I was just trying to see if I could get a little better accuracy.