Finally got a chance to talk with my brother. The recurve he has is a Martin X-200, as seen here-

http://www.martinarchery.com/?page=bows&file=x-200#

Can anyone tell me anything about it? Does it shoot smooth? His is a 45#er, what spine arrows does it like?

Can't remember if he has a stick on rest or is shooting of the shelf. Is there a specific advantage to either way with this bow? I assume best performance results from shooting from the center of the string. Does the shelf line up with this spot?

The X200 is Martin's entry level recurve. It's a decent bow. What spine arrows you'll need will depend entirely on your draw length and how smooth your release is. If you don't want to jack around with figuring out what aluminum or wood arrows you need, I'd suggest getting some 4560 (or are they 4055's???) Carbon Express Terminators. They should do the trick for you. If you draw the 'curve less than 28", you might cut the shafts a couple of inches longer than you really need.

No, the shelf does not line up with the center of the string. It's at least an inch or so above center. On stickbows, the bottom limb is always tillered slightly stronger than the top limb to accomodate the higher-than-center shooting plane.

Whether to shoot off the shelf or off an elevated rest is an argument that's been raging for at least 40 years. If I were shooting only targets, I'd go with the elevated rest. I have always gotten somewhat better accuracy and consistency with the rest.

I've busted a lot of those stick-on rests though, especially in cold weather. And remember, 'cold' where I am is like 25 degrees. For hunting, I think nothing beats shooting off the shelf for dependability.

It won't matter one whit with the X200 whether you set up with a rest or to shoot off the shelf. Your call. If it means anything to you, you can shoot vanes off the rest but not off the shelf. That's the real biggie between the two, as far as I'm concerned.

Thanks Arthur.

Those are the exact arrows I was thinking trying. On a compound, my draw is 28.75" with a release that hooks directly to the string with the trigger close to the the string, not sure what it'll be with fingers.

I'm thinking of big helical feathers off the shelf with a two or three blade (wensel woodsman or snuffer) cut on contact head. Any problems at 45# on whitetails with this set up?

Might have a problem with the Snuffers at 45 pounds. The Woodsman is lower profile and might do a better job of penetration. If it was my choice, I'd look at using Magnus Stingers or Bear Razorhead Lites with the accessory bleeder blades. Try and stick within 25 yards on your shots and put the arrow where it needs to be.

Feathers, I wouldn't go any bigger than 5". You won't need those big magnum jobbies with the Terminators. With the Stingers and Razorhead Lites, you could probably even do 4". Not sure about the Woodsman heads tho...

Just re-read things, did you mean the regular terminators or the terminator hunters? I had assumed the hunters for the added weight and momentum, but perhaps not? If not, did you recommend them based on your experience with them over other carbons?

And on the magnus, did you mean with or without bleeders? And I thought you didn't like stainless steel blades...

Either the regular Terminators or the Hunters. The standard black T's are easier to find in the grass. The Select version of either one is one heckuva good arrow. They're the only carbon type arrow I've had good results with, besides ACC's of course. I like Terminator Selects - black or Hunter version - and you know how picky I am about my arrows.

Since you seem to want more than a single blade cut, then yes, I meant using bleeders with the Stingers also. I don't DISlike stainless, I just prefer carbon. There's always Magnus' 100 gn screw-in which would be a good choice in a carbon steel head.

Art, I "built" some arrows at Jackson, to get an idea on foc, point weight, etc. I was initially concerned that FOC may be an issue with heavier heads and feathers bringing up the rear, but was pleasantly suprised to find FOC range from 12-14.8%. I assume with a recurve, this is entirely acceptable and should yield good flight?

Found that a CE Terminator at 29" with a 150 grn tip, insert, 3 4" feathers and a CE slimline nock yeilds a 452 grain arrow with 14.8% FOC. That puts me essentially spot on the "magical" 10 grains per pound.

Any feeling for what kind of FPS I can expect from the Martin x-200 at 45#s 28"ish draw? I'm trying to get a grip on the KE I can expect from this set up.

Range, those arrows should do ya good. No sweat with arrow flight.

As for fps, I'd reckon you'll be looking at somewhere around 170-180 fps. Hard to say for sure because so many factors go into arrow speed with a recurve. A consistent draw length, for sure, but also release technique. I've seen two different guys shooting the same arrow at the same draw length through the same bow but average 20 fps different arrow speeds. The human factor is MUCH more involved in performance with traditional bows than it is with compounds.

Got a chance to pick up the bow last night. Feels really good in the hand, I love these high wrist with a palm swell grips, really comfortable. Even had 2 cedar arrows so I could start flinging immediately, except for one small problem. He couldn't find the string, so I guess it's off to Martin's site to see how long a string and of what type this thing needs, then I guess I'll have to order one from somewhere.

Oh well, one day soon I'll shoot this bow... Just maybe...

I've shot an email to Martin, then started looking around. I have no idea if the x-200 can use modern no-stretch string materials, but want to make sure the string I get will be compatible with the arrows.

Is there a performance (less noise/shock and better speed) advantage to either Flemish or Endless loop? How do I go about choosing center serving size to make sure it's compatible with the CE slimline nocks?

Also, the bow has a stick on plastic rest currently. I want to take it off and shoot off the shelf. While I'm odering the string, I might as well take care of this. What is the best shelf material to use? Once applied, how long can I expect it to last, shot wise, before needing replaced?