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Recurve Question

Old 07-17-2004, 10:43 AM
  #1  
Nontypical Buck
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Default Recurve Question

Can anyone here give me any info about a recurve I just bought? I'm completely new to trad. archery, but an accomplished compound bowhunter. I basically understand that a longer bow is generally easier to shoot...correct? Aside from that I'm an all out noob! Here's the specs....

Damon Howatt Hunter
60# @28"
AMO 62"
4211
HH

All of that is on the inside of the lower limb. I'll try to post a pic here in soon.
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Old 07-17-2004, 10:57 AM
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Default RE: Recurve Question

Jason
Welcome to real archery. I am also new to trad archery and am now contemplating selling my compound. I believe though that you are correct in your assesment of the longer bow statement, it my understanding that a longer bow stacks less and shoots alittle smoother although I could be wrong. Anyway I can tell you this much,shooting trad is alot more rewarding and fun. Enjoy!
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Old 07-17-2004, 11:03 AM
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Nontypical Buck
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Default RE: Recurve Question

Here's some pics...



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Old 07-17-2004, 11:09 AM
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Default RE: Recurve Question

How's it shoot?
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Old 07-17-2004, 12:41 PM
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LBR
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Default RE: Recurve Question

Good bow in my opinion, especially if you draw 28" or less (they have a tendency to stack past 28-29").

60# is a lot to get started with--too much for most anyone. Unless you have a fairly short draw--24-25"--I suggest picking up something that pulls 40-45# at your draw until you get your form developed. Overbowing is probably the most common and worst mistake you can make. When you aren't in complete control of the bow you will develop bad habits that are a devil to break. You won't be as accurate or enjoy shooting it nearly as much either.

Longer bows can be more forgiving, but just to a certain point--after you get to that point basically you will just loose performance and not gain anything. A longer bow in a particular design will usually draw smoother, but it will vary with design. Some 56" recurves will draw smoothly to 30", some 64" recurves can start stacking at 28". Bow design and the bowyer's skill has a large part to play here. Also some custom bows may be tillered for a shorter draw length to give an individual more performance--there can be a good bit of difference in a bow made for a person with a 26" draw versus one made for someone with a 30" draw.

If it's in good shape, you have a good bow, but I would seriously consider getting less poundage to start with.

Chad
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Old 07-17-2004, 06:41 PM
  #6  
Nontypical Buck
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Default RE: Recurve Question

Thanks for all the help guys, but I've got bad news....I broke it! I strung it with the proper string and noticed the lower limb was twisting.....I asked the pro at the shop about it and was told that it may come out after being strung for a couple of days or shooting it would likely help....or it would break! The latter came to be, but I can't expect much....I paid $10 at a yard sale for it. I will heed the advice of lower weight, but I don't believe I was over-bowed. I just traded up my 87#(actual) Buckmaster for a 70# Mathews....I did get to draw the DH a couple of times before it broke.....very smooth to me, but liek I said earlier I'm too new to know for sure. BTW, what exactly is "stacking"? I plan to keep on trying to start a traditional setup, but I know I don't have time to become accomplished enough to hunt this way this season....next year is a new year though. I could find the right bow at anytime....we'll see!
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Old 07-17-2004, 09:23 PM
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Default RE: Recurve Question

In my opinion, that pro may not have done you any favors.
It's not usually too difficult to carefully heat a bent limb and get the twist out. However, shooting it will *not* help and if the twist is pronounced enough it could cause the string to shed at the shot,then it's Katie bar the door, because anything can happen; including the bow breaking.

Your pro may be hell on wheels for compounds but I think he should keep quiet on recurves.

Guy
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Old 07-17-2004, 11:24 PM
  #8  
LBR
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Default RE: Recurve Question

I agree with Guy--leaving a bow with a twisted limb strung is not a good idea, shooting a bow with a twisted limb is a very bad idea--especially if it's a bad twist. Guy already covered that.

Without seeing you shoot, it's impossible to say for sure that 60# is too much, but I can say that it was too much for me, and I could draw 100#+ on a compound. I can shoot over 100# on a trad bow now, but I shoot 66#. I've been shooting for about 12 years now, and have shot as much as 82# on a regular basis, but that much weight is just more wear and tear on the body. Very few animals on the planet require that kind of poundage, none in North America--40# is plenty for whitetail if you do your part. A few ways to see if you have a weight you can handle is to see if you can hold your bow at full draw for 10 seconds without shaking, or sit flat on the floor on your rear, hold the bow straight out in front of you, and come to full draw comfortably--both without warming up.

Much, much better to start out a bit too light than too heavy, work on form and accuracy, then move on to more weight if you need to.

Chad
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Old 07-18-2004, 08:32 AM
  #9  
Nontypical Buck
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Default RE: Recurve Question

Thanks again for the advice. Since I had no idea I followed the advice of the pro.....I somehow had a feeling that I should come here and ask first.

As far as the weight, I didn't get the opportunity to actually shoot the bow, but I felt comfortable drawing it. I'll definetly take your advice into considedration when I'm ready to purchase a new bow or next bow. Originally I wanted a longer...say 60" +, recureve....around 50-55#.

Another question....the lower limb basically 'delaminated' about half way up. Can I reapply epoxy and clamp it back to make it shootable again or is it junked? If not it's no big deal, it'll hang on the wall nicely!
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Old 07-18-2004, 09:43 AM
  #10  
LBR
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Default RE: Recurve Question

Afraid that one is now a wall hanger.

Chad
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