2213s spine at about 70#; way too stiff for a bow pulling about 51#.

merit:

Although some of your problems might be caused by improper or inconsistent form, it appears that most suggest that you begin by changing shaft size.

Here is a method I use to determine what my actual and consistent draw-length is and what the actual draw-weight is on a particular recurve when I am at normal anchor.

1. Using a bare (nock only) and uncut shaft that I will be hunting with, I slip a firm-fitting rubber "O-ring" onto the shaft and slide the ring forward to the tip of the shaft.
2. I nock the shaft and draw to my anchor several times to loosen up my muscles.
3. One I have loosened up, I draw to full anchor, eye the shaft, and then slide the "O-ring" back towards the riser until the ring just touches the front of the shelf.
4. Using the shaft with the "O-ring," I use a draw-weight scale, pull the bow on the scale until the "O-ring" touches the shelf, and then check the scale for the poundage of draw.
5. I then measure the shaft from nock to ""O-ring" and cut my shafts accordingly.

Using this method gets you much closer to the actual draw-weight of the bow than assuming the bow is actually drawing a weight it was cut to do and adding or subtracting poundage in accordance with your draw-length.

I still am not comfortable with that 60" bow, but if you say and know it is comfortable to you, that is what counts.

I do agree that your arrows are overspined,but I don't think that is the root of the problem.I can shoot a 2117 out of my 45@28 kodiak mag,which is way overspined.The arrows will group well if I'm shooting good(field points).Now they may be sticking in the target at a pretty bad angle,but they stll group with field points.I would say you are right to look for some help with your form.I think that is the root of the problem.When you shoot a compound how much weight do you pull?If it's not close to 70# then you may be over bowed a little.Most people recomend going down 10-15#'s.


Good luck

CB

CAJUNBOWHNTR:

I wholeheartedly agree that a flaw in form is probably the prevalent cause of poor arrow flight and inconsistent accuracy when shooters are having arrow flight problems. Nevertheless, exemplary form cannot always compensate for arrows having the wrong spine. I believe it is too early to say that flawed form is the root of Merit's problem. IMO, having improperly spined arrows runs second to flawed form as a common cause of poor arrow flight and inconsistent accuracy.

If I had to pick one aspect regarding difficulty in tuning a recurve, matching the proper arrow spine would be my choice. Finding the right shaft size (spine) for the bow can be time consuming. And it differs from person to person. Take for instance that 2117's do not fly well out of your bow. 2117's w/125 grn heads fly like darts out of my 64" 45#@28" Bear TD. However, I shoot 32" shafts and have a 4" overdraw.

Although some of the suggestions by everyone might not cure Merit's problems, with a recurve it is a trial and error approach. Additionally, without asking Merit to answer an interrogatory, some possibilities will have to be assumed. With the stiff spine issue of the 2315's, I am assuming that because Merit is still learning to skillfully shoot his recurve, there will be some too much finger on the string issue, finger drag on release, creeping, things on the strings, etc. All of which will rob energy from the bow, causing the shaft to be even more over-spined.

Also; Merit might come back one day and tell us that all of us were off base. In the meantime, I still opt for Merit first determining the best arrow spine before moving on to other aspects.