robk

i am new in traditional archery but have been shooting and hunting compound bows for almost 20 years. i am working up some things i have to get for my hunting and wood arrows are one of my first things to get and i am in a delima as to which broadheads to shoot. i am leaning toward twin blade broadheads with bleeders or even something like the wensel broadheads for a 3 blade but would be very interested in hearing what others who hunt traditional have to say. i know i am going to use 125 grain heads and field tips but also want to know if it is easy to remove fieldtips to broadheads and what type of glue or glues should i use for fletching and placing bh' s or tips. any and all help will be very appreciated
thanks to all who reply
rob k

Arthur P

Rob, I' m a little unclear... Are you talking wood arrows only? If so, I don' t recommend switching broadheads and field points back and forth. With my woods, I start out with field points and shoot them. The ones that shoot best are pulled out and get broadheads installed. If they still shoot straight with broadheads, then they are dedicated broadhead arrows. Sometimes I have to go through several dozen shafts to wind up with a half dozen good broadhead arrows, but I' m very picky when it comes to accuracy.

The ' less fortunate' arrows keep field points or get outfitted with judo points for practice, stump shooting and rabbit/squirrel hunting.

With aluminum or GOOD carbon arrows (my favorite is Carbon Express Terminator Selects - carbon composite with good weight and very good accuracy), I' ve never had much any problem switching back and forth from field points to judos to broadheads.

I' ve been using mostly Magnus II broadheads the past 10 years or so for glue-ons. For screw-ins, it' s hard to beat the regular ol' Bear Razorhead.

seymour

Traditionally resin has been used to glue heads on cedar. You can heat the head a little with a propane torch to remove it and heat the resin stick to apply the resin to the taper, then heat the head and seat it. Then you cool it in a cup of water and you' re done except for chipping off the drips if you want.

I understand that nowadays there are other adhesives that might work better but I' ve never used them.

Since switching to aluminium arrows, all my broadheads are glued on to screw in adapters that add about 20 grains to the head weight. That changes the spine a bit but I just use heavier field points to practice with.

I use Zwickies and Bodkins for broadheads. The latter are cheap and practically indestructable so I use them for marmots and such. The former I use on big game because they penetrate a little better I think because they have just two edges rather than three like the Bodkins.

There are definite advantages to being able to change heads without a torch. I think Arthur' s advice about leaving things alone with cedars is probably good once, as he says, you find the arrows that shoot well with the broadheads. With aluminiums that usually isn' t an issue.