First Recurve...Need help!
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 3
First Recurve...Need help!
Looking to purchase my first recurve bow. I've hunted with compounds ever since I started hunting about 10 years ago and am just wanting to try something new. I know very little about recurves in general. Any advice about which companies to check out or which specific bows to look at would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
#2
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mississippi USA
Posts: 15,296
A great starter bow is the Samick Sage. If you have a longer draw, the Samick Journey. Very reasonably priced, great shooters--better than some I've shot that cost a LOT more.
Don't get caught up in hype. Do your homework. You don't get into this sport looking for shortcuts. Keep in mind there are no magic products. A really good video is "Masters of the Barebow, Volume III".
Don't be afraid to ask questions, don't be afraid to question the answers.
Good luck!
Chad
Don't get caught up in hype. Do your homework. You don't get into this sport looking for shortcuts. Keep in mind there are no magic products. A really good video is "Masters of the Barebow, Volume III".
Don't be afraid to ask questions, don't be afraid to question the answers.
Good luck!
Chad
#3
I have always liked and been partial to the Bear Kodiak Hunters between 1967-1977 recurves. Many of them are available still in EC on eBay for a decent price, they are still very functional shooting bows w/o breaking the bank for a custom recurves costing perhaps $600+ these days.
The Bear Kodiak Mag's are nice too - however, they are shorter (48" long) and because of that CAN cause finger pinch when shooting fingers. The Kodiak Hunter series are 60" long which eliminates finger pinch really.
These bows are beautiful, were made well, and are very nice bows still - most collectable now that Fred Bear has passed away.
I have a 1970's Bear Kodiak Hunter that is in near-mint condition that I purchased on eBay for $300 - but they can be found for less as well. They made these bows in a beautiful walnut brown color and a really nice green color (that's what I have) called green Futurewood.
Check them out. They are gorgeous looking bows, shoot well, and were made well.
The Bear Kodiak Mag's are nice too - however, they are shorter (48" long) and because of that CAN cause finger pinch when shooting fingers. The Kodiak Hunter series are 60" long which eliminates finger pinch really.
These bows are beautiful, were made well, and are very nice bows still - most collectable now that Fred Bear has passed away.
I have a 1970's Bear Kodiak Hunter that is in near-mint condition that I purchased on eBay for $300 - but they can be found for less as well. They made these bows in a beautiful walnut brown color and a really nice green color (that's what I have) called green Futurewood.
Check them out. They are gorgeous looking bows, shoot well, and were made well.
#4
Also, I highly recommend the book 'Shooting Instinctively' by G. Fred Asbell. A MUST read!
Lots of good info in there about everything - it's like 'The Bible' of instinctive shooting - about bows, tuning, arrows, great hunting stories, a 'Question & Answer' section, shooting form, practicing, etc.
Lots of good info in there about everything - it's like 'The Bible' of instinctive shooting - about bows, tuning, arrows, great hunting stories, a 'Question & Answer' section, shooting form, practicing, etc.
#5
Typical Buck
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: southwestern va
Posts: 753
im in the same boat as you, compound shooter wanting to get into traditional archery. Ive been reading up and i also took a traditional archery lesson with an instructor. If you are like me, you will probably need to get either 1)a bow you can change the limbs out on (like the sage) or 2) 2 bows, one with lower poundage so you can learn to shoot and work on form and one with a higher poundage that you want to hunt with.
#6
Yes - I hunt with a 45# now which is 47# at my 29" draw length. The biggest mistake many new guys make to switching from the compound to a recurve or longbow is starting out with too heavy of a bow. This can greatly affect your form, learning curve, etc.
Unlike a compound bow - you will need and want to shoot a trad bow much more to get better and better at it. Learning to shoot instinctively takes time - so one does more shooting with a stickbow vs. a compound. Plus - you will find it's just WAY MORE fun to just shoot your bow as you get into it. That's why some of these late 1960's to late 1970's Bear recurve bows are just the ticket! You can start with a bow say - 45# or 50# and if need be - move up in weight eventually as you get better and stronger at shooting the stickbows. I have **** traditional for over 40 yrs, yet b/c of a nagging shoulder issue I shoot no more now than a 45# bow - yet that is plenty of power to adequately take whitetails and still have complete pass-thru's! Plus - I can focus on my form and if I want to shoot say -50 to 100 arrows per day shooting at targets, or, stump shooting in the woods or fields with Judo points - I can shoot for hours w/o getting tired and my form, concentration and/or accuracy suffering for it.
So start out light - you won't go wrong.
THE biggest mistake is - when guys switch over from their compounds IS - b/c they shot a 60# compound they think they will be able to shoot a 60# recurve or longbow well! Not so! Totally differant bear here!
Unlike a compound bow - you will need and want to shoot a trad bow much more to get better and better at it. Learning to shoot instinctively takes time - so one does more shooting with a stickbow vs. a compound. Plus - you will find it's just WAY MORE fun to just shoot your bow as you get into it. That's why some of these late 1960's to late 1970's Bear recurve bows are just the ticket! You can start with a bow say - 45# or 50# and if need be - move up in weight eventually as you get better and stronger at shooting the stickbows. I have **** traditional for over 40 yrs, yet b/c of a nagging shoulder issue I shoot no more now than a 45# bow - yet that is plenty of power to adequately take whitetails and still have complete pass-thru's! Plus - I can focus on my form and if I want to shoot say -50 to 100 arrows per day shooting at targets, or, stump shooting in the woods or fields with Judo points - I can shoot for hours w/o getting tired and my form, concentration and/or accuracy suffering for it.
So start out light - you won't go wrong.
THE biggest mistake is - when guys switch over from their compounds IS - b/c they shot a 60# compound they think they will be able to shoot a 60# recurve or longbow well! Not so! Totally differant bear here!
#7
Spike
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 29
First of all get the poundage according to what you are going to hunt. Next the shorter he bow the more pinch is created, longer bow more forgiving. All sports have one thing in common. The better the equipment the better you wil be, this does not mean go buy a black widow, but don't buy the cheapest thing you can find. Start buy looking in the price range you are willing to spend, find the product and try it out , I can't express this enough.. You can get a bear grizzly for 319$ and they shoot very well. Damon Howat makes a very good bow but the price is a little higher
#8
There is alot of good advise getting put out here. I have been on a 2 yr quest to take a quail with the long bow, I have not been sucessful yet but I have had some GREAT misses! What I will throw in is start short to many people go from compound to traditionl and get discourage with bad results shooting 25-40 yrds cause they have done it with the compound so long and its ALOT easier. Stay close get your mechanics down and keep them consitent this will help you shoot consitently which will help you understand what your doing right and what your doing wrong. Find somone at your local range study , learn and have a blast!
Good Luck
Niccum
Good Luck
Niccum