Feathers vs Vanes? Scuff on arrow rest?
#1
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 252
Feathers vs Vanes? Scuff on arrow rest?
Hey guys, the newbie is back with more questions. I have one questions but I believe it may lead to another. I shoot about a 42# recurve and just started. First questions is, is there a difference between feathers and plastic vanes when it comes to shooting a traditional bow? I originially got feathers but they are all coming off after not that many shots. Do vanes stick better to aluminum arrows than feathers? I'm all for tradional but if I can get the same performance from vanes and not have to refletch all the time, I'll make the switch. Now if they should stick the same, I wonder if its my arrows and what I shoot? I have 2117 arrows 400 grain which ive been told is very heavy. I have hopes of hunting with these so I wanted as heavy as possible. They are 30" arrows. I am very consistant up to 15yds which would be my max hunting distance due to bow weight and my accuracy. Now out of the dozen arrows, just about all of them have feathers off. some the feathers start peeling at the bottom, some the top, and some in the middle where its just hanging on at the ends so its all random. Now there is scuffing on my arrow rest as showed in the pic. I do not know if this is normal or if my arrow is fish tailing and rubbing when I shoot. Any thoughts? Bad batch of glued feathers? Go to vanes? Change arrow weight? WHat about the arrow rest? THANKS a bunch guys!
#2
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mississippi USA
Posts: 15,296
It looks like you are shooting beside the flipper rest? If you are going to use the flipper, the arrow sits on top of the little arm. If you want to shoot off the shelf, remove the flipper rest entirely.
Sounds like a bunch of different things. Vanes don't stick any better than glue--sounds like a bad glue job. You get better flight from feathers, except when using certain types of rests.
For tuning advice, go to www.bowmaker.net . It's the best I've ever seen on the www.
Chad
Sounds like a bunch of different things. Vanes don't stick any better than glue--sounds like a bad glue job. You get better flight from feathers, except when using certain types of rests.
For tuning advice, go to www.bowmaker.net . It's the best I've ever seen on the www.
Chad
#3
If you're going to shoot off the shelf via a rug rest, feathers. Vanes and shooting off the shelf don't play well together.
If you're going to use an elevated rest like a flipper rest, you can use vanes.
If you're going to use an elevated rest like a flipper rest, you can use vanes.
Last edited by Night Wing; 07-05-2011 at 07:10 AM.
#4
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Adirondacks
Posts: 1,305
I would suggest using Bohning's arrow shaft cleaner before fletching with either feathers-vanes or aluminum-carbon.With vanes I would also use it to clean the base's if you switch to vanes.Your 30" 2117 is to stiff for a 45lb bow.Try the 2018 instead.
#5
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 252
OH MY! I think Im about to be really embarassed if i understand LBR correctly! The arrow should be on the higher smaller arm on the rest???? I've been using the bigger lower and it cradles the arrow perfectly but it explains a lot. I attached two pics here, the one with the arrow on the lower arm is how i was doing it, the higher is how I think I understood it should be shot? Oh man, am i a rookie at tradional or what!?
#6
Boone & Crockett
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mississippi USA
Posts: 15,296
The second picture is correct--not sure what's causing the rubbing on the arm though?
If you fletch your own arrows, acetone is a great cleaner for the shafts and feather bases--use proper precautions though.
Chad
If you fletch your own arrows, acetone is a great cleaner for the shafts and feather bases--use proper precautions though.
Chad
#7
Fork Horn
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 252
Phew! Thanks for the reply, I would have felt really dumb if I wasn't even using the rest correctly. I'm going to set up a video camera and see if I can super slow motion it to see what is rubbing on the rest.
I bought my arrows already fletched from 3Rivers Archery. I am going to start fletching my own now however since I have almost a dozen barely used arrows with no fletching. Thanks for the advice, i'll be using it
I bought my arrows already fletched from 3Rivers Archery. I am going to start fletching my own now however since I have almost a dozen barely used arrows with no fletching. Thanks for the advice, i'll be using it
#8
Spike
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: California
Posts: 42
You're getting those marks on the rest because you absolutely 100% without question have the wrong arrows for that draw weight. They are too stiff and the nock end of the arrow is banging off the rest and riser. That is also not helping any with having the fletch come off. Its working to try and strip the fletch off.
#9
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274
You're getting those marks on the rest because you absolutely 100% without question have the wrong arrows for that draw weight. They are too stiff and the nock end of the arrow is banging off the rest and riser. That is also not helping any with having the fletch come off. Its working to try and strip the fletch off.
#10
Spike
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Pea ridge Arkansas
Posts: 11
if in fact you are shooting 42#@28" i would recomend you try 1916 shafts with 125-145 tips with feathers. yes the arrow should set on the long arm of the rest........... my first post here, don't wish to step on any toes.