If you shoot the same grains per pound, you won't get any more range from an 80# bow than a 35# bow. He blamed his lack of success on his wood arrows. Wood arrows aren't normally light. IMO there is no reason to use an 80# bow on whitetails, unless you just want to and can.

Could have been. That relates to tuning. Causes bad arrow flight.

Hmmm...I thought it was to hit solid bone. I normally get pass-throughs.

It's obvious you don't know anything about me, and didn't make a good guess.

Really? What would that be? The reason I ask is because the best "target shooters" I know of (a couple of World Champions and a local guy that was really good) are also some of the most sucessful hunters I know. Maybe nobody told them about the big difference in shooting animals and targets?
Chad

The few times I hit bone (ribs mostly, shoulder once) my broad heads cut right through the bone. You hit high and get into the solid meat and the drag on the shaft will stop that arrow in a hurry. Same if you hit too far front. A lung shot is not what I would call "solid meat". Maybe you don't butcher your own deer and don't know any better. I find a lot of dead deer and arrow penetration seems to be a real problem lately. It has nothing to do with "Tuning", but is usually traced to extra light shafts and junky expensive heads. Who cares if the arrow passes through the deer anyway. If you cut both lungs or the heart or arteries the deer is dead. Don't give me one of those"I know a guy stories" about a double lung hit that got away. One lung maybe, two no. I like bowhunting, but for every deer drug out, one is hit and lost. People should stop blaming their equipment and spend more time studying what they are hunting and learning about their equipment.
If you use the same grain arrow out of a 40 pound bow and a 70# bow the 70# is going farther. I have a very short 70# longbow(I doubt I can still draw it) and the speed and distance it shoots is awesome.

Whitetail ribs won't stop much. A solid shoulder hit will stop most arrows.

There you go assuming again. You'd do a lot better to ask.

FYI, I've butchered/helped butcher more deer than most have seen dead. My brother and I get recruited every year by friends and neighbors, because we know what we are doing. We've been butchering all sorts of game animals, and for years our own hogs, since we were kids.

Unless you are seeing all these deer get hit, you are just assuming again. Deer are about as hard to penetrate as a paper sack, if you are getting good arrow flight and use a decent head. All have an effect. Even with a lousy head, if you get decent flight and shot placement you can shoot through a deer without having to go heavy in poundage.

I do. I like good blood trails.

Yeah, I understand. That's like trying to tell me "tuning doesn't matter".

Yeah, and? Who was blaming their equipment? Learning about your equipment includes tuning it for the best flight and the least noise, for hunting anyway.

Usually, if the arrow doesn't break. If you use the same grain arrow out of either a 40# or 70# bow, one arrow tuned for that bow and the other isn't, the one that is tuned for that bow will travel further. That's because with proper tuning you get a better transfer of energy, and you don't loose as much energy through bad/wobbly flight. That's why you get better penetration with tuned equipment. That's pretty basic, or at least I thought it was. Something I thought most any hunter would know--comes will learning about the animal and your equipment.

Chad

Almost everything you said is just going in a circle. I could go to heavier heads and take the feathers off my arrows. How is that for tuning? Back in the day when I used only feathers, I kept two or three arrows in my quiver with solid 3 blade heads just in case I got caught in a heavy rain. The heavy head will allow you to shoot with wet feathers at reasonable ranges. How is that for tuning? By the way, checking the spine on an arrow has nothing to do with the weight of an arrow. If you don't understand how spineing an arrow is done, buy aluminum it is already done for you. The different weights of an arrow really do not matter that much for hunting. If you stick with the same type of wood the shafts will be close enough in weight to each other. If you bought real scrap shafts, the weight may vary from end to end. I always balance them in the middle on something real thin and the heavy end is the head end. None of this is tuning. It is being a bow hunter. If you don't have the interest to learn how to do these things on your own, stay out of the woods and shoot on target ranges. I think I have had enough "Tuning" lessons for now.

How so?

Makes no sense.

Still makes no sense. I can shoot with wet feathers at reasonble ranges just as well as I can with dry feathers, with the exact same broadheads. Changing the broadhead weight will skew the spine of the arrow.

I never said it did. I have scales for one, spine testers for the other.

Even with aluminum (or carbon) you need a basic understanding of arrow spine, for tuning purposes.

Depends. On a close shot, accuracy won't suffer...but arrow weight also affects noise and penetration.

Depends on what you call "close enough". I have some ACME Premium POC's that vary by 100 grains per shaft or more.

I don't consider ACME Premiums "scrap".

So, you do pay attention to at least some aspects of tuning. Good deal.

Whatever. Most archers call it tuning, whether they are shooting paper, foam, or fur.

Actually most of the guys on the target ranges go into a lot more detail to be sure they get the most from their target set-ups and their hunting set-ups.

Just holler when you are ready for more. Always willing to help.

Chad

LBR just a target shooter. LMAO.

I am a bowyer. I build all my equipment and I have been tuning not only my long/recurved bows, but the arrows as well. Wonder where this info will lead??? lol.

New trad hunters, stay clear of this info.. Someone has no clue what they are talking about.

Hey Burnie--good to see you!

I had fun with that one. Poor guy obviously doesn't get out much....

Chad