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nock set location ???

Old 09-14-2009, 02:25 PM
  #1  
Fork Horn
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Default nock set location ???

Where should i set the nock on my string to shoot three under with a recurve? What broadhead and arrow's would you use on a 40# recurve for deer. I was thinking of 125gr magnus stinger or other 2 blade heads and a heavy aluminum arrow. I am new to traditional archery and only plan to use it later, after i have become more efficient with it.
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Old 09-14-2009, 02:32 PM
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bigcountry
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Originally Posted by iowabuckslayer View Post
Where should i set the nock on my string to shoot three under with a recurve? What broadhead and arrow's would you use on a 40# recurve for deer. I was thinking of 125gr magnus stinger or other 2 blade heads and a heavy aluminum arrow. I am new to traditional archery and only plan to use it later, after i have become more efficient with it.
For a 40lb recurve, I would use 1816 or 1916 aluminum with 150gr tip.

As for setting nock point, you can bare shaft tune to locate correct nock point. Usually for 3 under if the bow is tillered for split, you would set to 1/2" over center. For a bow tillered for 3 under about 1/4" or more over center.
 
Old 09-14-2009, 04:16 PM
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Fork Horn
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I have a martin rebel if it help's. How do i know what it is tillered for?
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:30 AM
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All non custom bows are tillered for split finger draws.To find the best spot for the nock start with a bare shaft and set the nock a tad to high.Gradually bring it down until you see the nock high flight go away.In some cases you can't quite get rid of it all together but that's ok.Just be sure what high you're seeing is not being caused by the arrow bumping the shelf which also shows as nock high.That said I would suggest getting the brace height dialed in first.Good luck!
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:48 AM
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Fork Horn
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So should i go back to shooting split? When i started shooting as a kid that was how i shot, but after reading about 3 under i thought i would try it when i found a recurve. I've only had the bow a week so switching should not be an issue. Just want the bow to be as efficent and accurate as it was designed and built at the factory so i can't blame my poor shooting on the equipment.
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Old 09-16-2009, 06:59 AM
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I prefer split finger but it's really a matter of personal preference.
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:15 AM
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bigcountry
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Originally Posted by iowabuckslayer View Post
So should i go back to shooting split? When i started shooting as a kid that was how i shot, but after reading about 3 under i thought i would try it when i found a recurve. I've only had the bow a week so switching should not be an issue. Just want the bow to be as efficent and accurate as it was designed and built at the factory so i can't blame my poor shooting on the equipment.
Most martin products are actually tillered for in between. I see about 1/8 positive tiller. They try to please all.

If I had it to do over, I would not shoot 3under. Most of the reasons for shooting 3 under is people try to shoot a 60" bow 29" draw and get finger pinch. I have seen time and time again, split finger being more quiet, more available, and it just makes sense with even pressure behind an arrow.

Saying all that, I do shoot 3under.
 
Old 09-16-2009, 07:03 PM
  #8  
Fork Horn
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I have tried both ways but still get a lot of porpoise from the arrow at 10-15ft. I'm going to try adjusting nock location to see if it helps.
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Old 09-17-2009, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by iowabuckslayer View Post
I have tried both ways but still get a lot of porpoise from the arrow at 10-15ft. I'm going to try adjusting nock location to see if it helps.
Did you bareshaft tune like suggested?

Problem is unless you have a clean release, no amount of tuning really helps.

I know my release sucked so bad, it took me a good year to where I could trust tuning procedures.
 
Old 09-17-2009, 07:05 PM
  #10  
Fork Horn
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Originally Posted by bigcountry View Post
Problem is unless you have a clean release, no amount of tuning really helps.

I know my release sucked so bad, it took me a good year to where I could trust tuning procedures.
Should I do the bare shaft tune first or work on my form and not worry about tuning just yet. Cause i'm sure i will switch back and forth before i find what is comfortable.

Those arrow's that were suggested sure seem small are they right? I was thinking more like a 2213 or 2117.
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