Red oak board bow
#1
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994

Was at home depot last night. Killing time while the wife looked around looking for stuff for a bathroom re-do (just shoot me now...
).
Got to looking at the red oak 1x2x8. $.98!! They have lots of them, problem is I suck at reading grain and picking out the right one. If the side grain shows parallel lines, I can read them, only problem is they all run off the edge before they get to adequate bow length. Some run parallel, then the grain lines just kind of disappear. No idea what this means.
Any tips for picking a quality board? Would like to try a 70" pyramid and get up to 50# with it.
They also have maple 1x2s for $.89. It would need backed, right?

Got to looking at the red oak 1x2x8. $.98!! They have lots of them, problem is I suck at reading grain and picking out the right one. If the side grain shows parallel lines, I can read them, only problem is they all run off the edge before they get to adequate bow length. Some run parallel, then the grain lines just kind of disappear. No idea what this means.
Any tips for picking a quality board? Would like to try a 70" pyramid and get up to 50# with it.
They also have maple 1x2s for $.89. It would need backed, right?
#2
Guest
Posts: n/a

Never tried one, but notice a bunch of guys have on Primitive archer forum. I think red oak, you can't violate the grain near as much as hickory. Hickory, I have seen you can and grain doens't mean near as much. I myself wouldn't buy it if I couldn't read the side grain. Its just too much work tillering to have it break on the tiller stick.
#3
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274

Great way to learn how to make a flat bow and learn how to tiller without spending a fortune. Simply look for the boards with darker piths and grain that runs all the way down the board. Piths are the heart wood lines. If they are light in color, dont get it. The lighter the color, the less dense it is. You want the densest boards you can find. A good indication is by the dark grain and deeper red. Id suggest backing with drywall tape, silk, or linen. Selfbows require a pretty good eye when tillering.Backing will give yousome protection agianst grain violations and will give you some leeway with your tillering.
Red oak is a real easy wood to work with. Don't make the best bows, lots of set and follow, and are pretty sluggish, but are great to learn with.
Red oak is a real easy wood to work with. Don't make the best bows, lots of set and follow, and are pretty sluggish, but are great to learn with.
#4
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274

Oh yea, if you are trying to get 50 lbs with a pyramide style, 70" would be fine. You should have no problem. You might get a few boards. The heavier the weight, the better you have to be at tillering.
#6
Dominant Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: land of the Lilliputians, In the state of insanity
Posts: 26,274

ORIGINAL: RLoving1
You split any of that osage yet Kent? If we have to we can make a mad dash to Okieland this summer and cut some more!
You split any of that osage yet Kent? If we have to we can make a mad dash to Okieland this summer and cut some more!
I split the ones you brought to the cabin, and sealed them as soon as I got home. They look real good. The others you brought the first time were seasoned already. I figured the moister and they were ready to go.Ive split and started debarking one to see if I can work around the ant holes. Ive got two bows going right now, (Brazilian walnut and bamboo and Brazilian walnut, white oak and snake skin) but once i get them done, I am going to see if i can get a self bow out of one of the logs you brought the first time. If not, i can cut them into slats or make a few lams. At the very minimum, Ill be able to get some wood for risers, grips, or tips. I will never trun down Osage. I love Osage, it is by far one of my favorite woods to work with. It can be a pain, but it makes up for it by making such good bows.
By the way, you need to forget that three D shoot and come ruin some brain cells next weekend.

#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,985

I have to go help clean up the poor run down range tomarrow.If the man with key to building with targets gives me(range master) any gaff you stand good chance of seeing me verses me getting up at crack of dawn to fight off snakes in shed to get to targets! After my first full work week in 2 months I have had about a nose full of reluctant people and ready to burn last brain cell!
I have enough vacation to use we can go up this summer after school lets out and cut/haul wood!

#9
Nontypical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994

ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
Oh yea, if you are trying to get 50 lbs with a pyramide style, 70" would be fine. You should have no problem. You might get a few boards. The heavier the weight, the better you have to be at tillering.
Oh yea, if you are trying to get 50 lbs with a pyramide style, 70" would be fine. You should have no problem. You might get a few boards. The heavier the weight, the better you have to be at tillering.
With a pyramid, do you think 2" is enough width, assuming I go 70"? How short could I go with 2" width and still get 40-50#s? I just pulled the 70" out of my a... I mean the air based on the 2" width.
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a

ORIGINAL: Rangeball
Burnie, thanks for all the input. That's what I was looking for, just not finding. I guess a quality board is rare for $.98... I'll keep my eyes out.
With a pyramid, do you think 2" is enough width, assuming I go 70"? How short could I go with 2" width and still get 40-50#s? I just pulled the 70" out of my a... I mean the air based on the 2" width.
ORIGINAL: burniegoeasily
Oh yea, if you are trying to get 50 lbs with a pyramide style, 70" would be fine. You should have no problem. You might get a few boards. The heavier the weight, the better you have to be at tillering.
Oh yea, if you are trying to get 50 lbs with a pyramide style, 70" would be fine. You should have no problem. You might get a few boards. The heavier the weight, the better you have to be at tillering.
With a pyramid, do you think 2" is enough width, assuming I go 70"? How short could I go with 2" width and still get 40-50#s? I just pulled the 70" out of my a... I mean the air based on the 2" width.