I am shooting 200gr phantom with 100gr of brass wieght on the front end of a GT trad 7595. Total wieght is 640gr. Works great.

Right now I can't shoot anything, I was in a wreck (hit in rear) in April and it screwed up a disk or something that is causing terible pain in my sciatic nerve they think. I go for something called pain management the 28th of this month. should be OK by spring doctors are telling me. It's a time type thing I guess.

I started investigating building the arrows because I'm basically sitting on my backside and going nuts. I was hoping I would be able to put the set together with the knowledge of other people with the basically the same type setup and do the final tuning when I am able to start shooting.

The arrows I figure will weigh around 240 gr, if I use 150 gr heads and 100 grain brass inserts (like BBD's setup) that brings arrow weight up to 490 grains not counting feathers/nocks witch should definitely put me in the ballpark, I think. If not I can play with the brass weights, brace height, nock position till it is finely tuned witch one has to do anyway.
Actually I was hoping that a finished arrow weight around 400/450 would be sufficient, if not weight can be added according to you guys. for instance "Team BBD", his setup sounds like it is around 500 grains per arrow and he would require more weight than my setup the way I look at it, my arrow is 1.250" shorter but he is shooting a #58 bow.
Straightarrow or anyone, I actually am not familiar with the brass inserts, what weights do they come in where do you get them, are they like the steel inserts, what is the angle size?

Steve, I thought my arrows were Beman the marking on the shafts says Gold Tip Graphite XT 5575, there was no manufacturer name, if they are not Beman what are they?


Changeling

Forgot to ask Team BBD, how do you like your O.l. Adcock bow ? Thats who made mine, it is not "ACS" though, the limbs on mine are carbon and walnut.

Changeling

Tim Gillingham
to me

show details 5:12 PM


Reply


Well, by all indications the 5575 will be too weak. The perfect arrow would
be a 3555 with about 200 grains in the front either in weights or points. I
think the 5575 will fly stiff for you. I don't think you will be able to
add enough weight to make them spine out at that low of poundage.

Tim Gillingham
National Shooting Staff Manager
Gold Tip Inc.

This is what Gold Tip had to say.

I had put in 2 other replies but they seem to be gone, how come?

Changeling

Oh, I was so disappointed I didn't see what page I was on. Anyone want to buy some Gold tip shafts?


Changeling

First, Gold Tips are made by Gold Tip. The brass weights attach to the inside end of the insert. They are threaded as well as that end of the insert. Any Gold Tip dealer should have them.

I think he meant they would be too stiff. I think he's wrong. You can add all kinds of weight up front if you want to. Broadheads are available up to 220 grains and even higher. You can get insert adapters (attach between the insert and the broadhead). You can add a couple hundred grains in brass weights internally. You can definitely weaken them enough to use. The question is, do you want to. By the time you buy the new broadheads and/or weights, you may not save much money. Though in my opinion the extreme FOC you'd obtain would be great for hunting.

I'm with straight arrow. If I were you I'd get one of the field tip kits from 3 rivers or kustom king and see if one works. They're pretty cheap.

http://www.3riversarchery.com/Produc...=0&i=CF5-T

Kustom king also has 300 grain field tips you could try.

I think you can find a weight and build a hunting head that will work for you with the right formula of insert weight, adapter weight and head weight.

Changeling have you shot them ? Have you tried them at all ?

Sometimes what people tell you won't work WILL WORK - every bow is different, everybody shoots differently .... give them a try anyways


I'm shooting ICS 400 shafts, weight tubes, 100 gr inserts and 125 heads for 225 up front and 680 grains total weight I think it is

Stealthcat, No, they are just the bare shafts at this point. I really don't know much about arrows and how to select them, that's evident more so than ever now!
I wasn't going to say anything but yesterday I followed the instructions for figuring out the correct arrow length and I totally screwed up the length I needed along with the correct spine when I bought them! About the only thing I got correct was the arrow color, "black". So, even if they worked they would be to short. I don't have anyone to blame but myself. So I put them up for sale in the classified on this web site. Someone replied and I responded but he is going out of town and I won't hear from him till Monday he said.
This was the first time I ever bought arrows, not trying to make excuses, I just totally messed up!

This is what I did to get my correct arrow length, I want to run it by you guys just to be sure on the method, I know now that it is normally done with a strung bow but this should be very close to the same.
Using just the riser I hooked a measuring tape to the front of the riser and held it just like I was shooting a bow (measuring tape was dead straight). The distance from the corner of my mouth with my middle finger where I anchor to the front of the bow surface/shelf was 29 1/8 inches.

This was "not" with the heel of the hand resting in the riser, I was taught to shoot with the wrist locked straight and the riser grip resting between the thumb and index finger, this totally (almost) eliminates torquing.


To this I am supposed to add 1 to 1.5 inches witch gives me the correct arrow length to get witch would be 30 1/8 to 30 5/8.

This brings up a question: Why so exact, what would it hurt to just shoot a 31 inch arrow ?

Changeling

I shoot full lenght shafts and my draw is only 27"

My arrows are Gold tip 3355 with 100gr brass insert, 125gr head 3x4" feathers.

When you get your new arrows install the insert, head and nock that your going to use and bare shaft to see what they are doing then if need be you can cut them back from the nock end untill you get them tuned or add more head weight if they are still too stiff. It will take a bit of time but well worth it in the long run