I was cleaning out my shop, after my last bow build, and decieded to make another bow with whati had in the shop. That is while I wait for some materials to come it. This bow is a cherry/white oak bi-lam Reflex/Deflex bow. I glued it up Sat. and started doing a little tillering yesterday.




55lbs at 22" Shooting for 60lbs at 28.

WTF mate you'll get lost in there now I can actually see the floor

I am hoping to get a start on Greg's bow Wed/Thur they shipped the lams on Friday

Am thinking about doing Yellow Heart and Leopardwood overlays on it but that might change when I get it glued up

Yep, I have room to move now. I built some new shelves in the back so I could get all that wood I had on the floor out of the way. It also makes a world of differnence just vacuuming up the place.

Boy, I feel like a loser. All I got done was roughing out that yew stave. And here you are on tiller in one weekend.

I did hymhaw alot on the layout.

How do you move so quickly?

Practice.lol. It also helps when you have a decent design for the materials. I used a basic design, Ideveloped for similar materials with the same specs. So I got in the ball park when I cut out the stave. And with practice, you will start to learn where to, and where not to remove wood. Once I get a bow on a short string, it goes much faster. During floor/long string tillering, I just make sure the limbs are bending equally so they dont blow up getting to brace.Once at brace, it goes much quicker. Especially with that little tool I showed you.

Looks good kent. When you tiller, do you tiller for split? And if you tiller for split, what do you do? 1/4" more tiller on top limb?

My best advice is to tiller the best you can, then use your weak limb as your top limb. I never cut a shelf until I get finished tillering. It is much easier to loosen a limb already weaker. Most of the time, i identify my weaker limb, while tillering and just keep the limb weaker and work it as such. I only tiller to 1/8" to 3/16"positive and no more. Ive heard of some going as much as 3/8". Ive always shot for 1/8-3/16". I shoot three under, so I do my final adjustments when setting my knock. Ive never had any problem with hand shock or finger pinch. Also, split finger shooters can adjust the knock with no problem as well. I actually shoot in new bows with split fingers. Its hard to hold an arrow on a naked string shooting three under.

You know Kent, never thought of it that way. One thing you can always count on is one limb being a tad weaker than the other. Why fight it, and let it work for you?

How does it feel mentoring someone and not even knowing it thru the internet?

Hes mentoring more than one person here!

Hey kent, any reason you picked that combo of wood?