daughenbaugh hunter

Im very interested in trying traditional hunting for birds like pheasant here in illinois. now im 5 ft 7, and i know nothing about traditional. is it one size fit all as in length or is it according to your height?
Also is it better to just get it made to fit, for draw length also, or is this another dont matter type deals with traditional? and if so can you please lead me too a person who can custom make that is not way too high, thank you William Daughenbaugh
Pecatonica Illinois

bigcountry

Just starting out, I suggest a real cheap one. It will take you 6months to a year just to figure out what you do like and what you don't like. For a guy 5 7, you probably will draw 27". So you can shoot a shorter recurve or longbow. Like 60", but I am 6'3", and need something about 64". Where its important for a maker to know your draw is when its usually over 28" for all wood bows. Its ok to short draw a bow, even though you might not be getting the most efficent power out of it, but not ok to overdraw a selfbow.

I suggest goign to rudderbows. I wish I did. For the first 6months the most inaccruate thing will be you, and learning. After that, find out what you like and find out about makers and all. I about forked over 600 dollars at first for a custom hickory bow. What I found out, is, thats way too high for hickory selfbow. But it took time to see that.

daughenbaugh hunter

thank you very much yes my draw is 27 inches, so can you just by one like a compound or should you get fitted in which is better.

bigcountry

Better than a compound. Just buy, set your nocking point, and Brace hieght and start shooting. Since your shorter, you have more options than most of us. Whats important is how the hand cutout feels to you.

LBR

I agree with BC that it's going to take some time to figure out what you like in a bow. Max energy won't be a big concern for birds and small game. Longer bows are more forgiving, to a point. If you draw 27 on a compound, most likely you will draw a little less on a trad bow.

If you can find one, I'd go with a cheap used bow to get a feel for it first, then move on to a custom if the urge hits. Most will be marked at 28", so just subtract approx. 3# per inch for every inch you draw under 28". Start out light--again, you won't need that much energy for small game, and with a light bow you will learn faster, shoot longer, and enjoy it more.

I wouldn't start out with an all wood bow--most selfbows aren't very forgiving, aren't as durable as a laminated bow, and require some extra attention. An old Pearson, Bear, Shakespeare, Root, etc. will serve you well and give you a better idea of what to look for in your next bow (there's always a next bow).

Gather up as much information as you can from sites like this. There's gobs of of opinion as well as solid information on the web--the trick is being able to discern good info. from...........well, not so good info.

Chad

daughenbaugh hunter

Thanks guys, if i may ask one more ?, i see people shooting a wooden shaft arrows at the range with traditional bows, is there a reason or is it what to use, and to stay away from the aluminum or carbon shafts arrows. i ask because im ready to get one this weekend, and i dont want to look ignorant when i walk in the shop. And also about fletching a guy at the range let me shoot his once about 2 weeks ago, he said i was a natural, hey i just shot at about 25 yards, i was maybe a half a foot off the bullseye. so he got me interested in it.
any way he had feather fletching, is this what to use instead of the plastic veins?. and does anyone know of a website that sell good traditional bows because here in illinois everyone is compound crazy. thank you. william daughenbaugh

BobCo19-65

If you plan on shooting competition, some classes require wooden shafts. I use mainly use aluminums on my bows when practicing and hunting. I have some carbon that don't get used much though.

If you go the aluminum route, use the table at Foxfire archery. Most aluminum charts are too stiff IMO.

bigcountry

I want at least 10gr/lb draw. So if you get a 50# bow, I would shoot 500gr arrows. That can be difficult in carbons and sometimes aluminums. I like shooting cedars. They are a pain in the butt, and you have to straighten sometimes, and aluminums are more accurate, but they are dead quiet when shooting and usually meet my wieght requirements. And jsut somethign about them feels good. Its all personal thing.

You want to shoot feathers when off the knuckle or a shelf . Veins won't work. I like 5" banana or sheild feathers. Also, generally they will be fletched a tad different than most compound. You want the cock featheropposite sidethe bow in most cases. So if right handed cock feather will be 180 degree out. So your feather arrangment will be 60 degrees, 180degrees, adn 300degrees, where most compound its 90degrees, 210degrees, and 330. But I have found some circumstances where that doesn't apply.

bigcountry

Bob, I have been fighting this for over 18months. I go by the easton charts or even 3rivers, and always get stiff reactions if I shoot the recommended lenght. I have to leave them 1"-2" longer. But after looking at foxfire charts, thats about what I have found. I just always thought it was me and my release or something.

Like right now, with my dreamcatcher recurve, everywhere suggests 2216. But it flys so stiff, it come out of the bow with nock completely to the right , but 2016's come out straight but shows a tad weak. But according to easton and others, 2016 is way too weak. I bet 2018 would fit the bill.

BobCo19-65

Yup I usually find the FoxFire acrchery chart to be pretty much on. Also check out their tuning section. It's pretty interesting. No bareshafting tuning recommendations.