I have been shooting alot in the cold. But I loose alot of tips this time of year in my 3d targets. Think its the cold mostly causing this?

If you use hot melt, and I have absolutely nothing to go by except my gut feeling, I think the glue just gets brittle and doesn't hold as well in cold weather. I also think the glue just gets old and quits holding as well as it used to, so I reglue my points several times a year - assuming my arrows last that long.[&:]

Epoxy eliminates the problem, but you're pretty well stuck ([8D]) with whatever points you put on the arrows.

Thanks Arthur. Kinda sucks, havin them stuck in my 3D targets

By the way, an old Indian trick... I guess many guys know this'n but not everybody.

I always dump my points into a cup of acetone to wash the oil and stuff out of them. Then I take a piece of an arrow that I've cut a taper on, wrap 80 grit sandpaper around the taper, and use it to roughen up the inside surface of each point. Then I wash them out in acetone again. THEN I glue them on.

Very new to the archery thing, just got my first bow this past fall, and don't claimto know anything... but how about using Loctite?-the removable kind of course

The method Art posted (acetone and sandpaper) has saved me a LOT of points over the years--used to pull them off on a regular basis before that. Weather here hasn't been quite that cold, but I've been shooting in below freezing weahter and haven't lost any points, and I never re-glue mine. I've been using regular old Fer-L-Tite, but going to try a different glue next time, that's supposed to stay more flexible/less brittle. Think it came from Kustom King.

Don't think Loc-Tite would work too well on wood shafts, but I haven't tried it.

Chad

I have that hot glue that 3rivers sells. I also have Fer-L-Tite, but never could figure out how to heat and get on my wood shafts or in my points without causing a air bubble.

easiest way I've found with hot melt is to heat the point,and use the rim of it toshave the stuff off of the stick, filling the point, then drive the shaft into the point... I've got a knit potholder I bought at the dollar store for like $.25 that I wet, and while I hold the shaft and point against a piece of plywood, I wrap the wet cloth around the point to cool/harden it

I heat the glue and wipe it on the end of the taper, then heat the point a little, then melt the glue on the shaft and put it on. Doesn't take much heat to do this, and doesn't take long to cool. I spin the shaft inside the point a round or so to spread the glue, plus this speeds cooling even more.

Chad, do you find FerLtite works better than hot glue? I use FerLtite on aluminums.