Is it possible that a full length 6075 Carbon Express with 100 grain tips is too weak for a 47lbs R/D longow? My arrows are impacting right, fletched and bare shaft.... What else could be causing this? I just can't imagine why this would be happening if it wasn't a spine issue... The nock tightness is the same on all my bows so I don't suppose it is that..........

It's got one of those big, cushy side plates that I don't personally care for... Wouldn't going to a harder side plate, like leather, move my shots over to the left? Seems like I heard that some where...... Also, are there any disadvantages to shooting a hard side plate as apposed to say a seal skin sytle?


All the spine charts says the 6075 should be the right arrow, so I wouldn't think I would noticed THAT much of impact to the right... Fletched shafts impacting about 4-5 inches to the right at 15yds..... Bare shafts are closer to a foot right..... It is a new bow with a different style grip that I am used to.... It almost wants the hand to be at a medium grip..... I thought maybe it is torque.... I forced a low wrist out of it and it is a tad better, but still impacting right.....????

Thanks

Joel

Real hard to say, could be a number of things, especially with a new bow to you. A foot difference at 15 yards is a lot though. Have you tried using any other types of arrows for tuning and then cross referencing the deflection?

Is the bow "kicking" in your hand. That is usually my main reason for right hits. Amount of grip pressure. Also try different stances out, maybe more open.

Bob,

I also tried 3555 Goldtips and they reacted even weaker.... The heavier 6075's did help some, but I can't help but to think it's a form issue...

It's the CX that I just got and as you know, the thing is light as a feather.... I'm used to shooting a heavy, 3pc bow.... That's why my first impression was torquing the grip.......

What baffles me is that I am GROUPING to the right, tight groups..... Seems if it were torque or nock issues, that I wouldn't be grouping so well?

You may want to go OL directly for your arrow question. Wish I could help, but I have never used carbons. He is usually pretty goodin getting back to you especially if you put "quickquestion" in the heading.

You can most definetly group with torque, as long as it is consistant.

For the 6075 with a 100 gnyou need to be pulling 70 to 80 lb+ bows.
I have 4065 out of a 57 lb bow with a 250gn point

No way they're too weak, Joel. Definitely overspined, but they should shoot much better than what they're doing for you.

I would get rid of the thick strike plate and go with thin leather. No disadvantages at all with leather instead of sealskin. I prefer leather, myself.

You also have to take the bow's feelings into account. Some bows simply do not like shooting certain types of arrows and get mighty upset with you if you try to make 'em do it.

Have you tried any wood or aluminum arrows out of it?

Their chart says I am using the correct arrow. Remember, they are full length......

The more I think about it, the more I am convinced that it is spine....

When I went to the pro shop, they had the exact arrows, except the were cut to 31 inches..... I shot them at 20yds and they flew perfect! Perhaps that extra inch of length is causing me to be too weak...... Then again, I'm like arthur, they shouldn't be reacting THAT weak!!


Arthur,

I did shoot some full length 70lb woods out of it last night and they seemed to fly good and hit dead center.... However, that was only around 12yds. My guess is that at 20yds they will be a tad weak....

I've got some leather side plates on the way and I will try that first.... If nothing else, I will cut them this weekend and see......

Now for my follow up question... I can't cut the carbons myself, so a special trip is needed..... Then you have to allow time to dry, etc... So basically I won't be able to cut a little, then test, cut a little then test, I need to get fairly close the first time to save myself trips to the pro shop..... How much should I cut? An inch?

Let me also add that the bare shafts are indicating fairly extreem nock left, with the point a good foot from the bullseye..... Every indication is a weak arrow.....


Then again, it may just be those cursed feathers that Chad sold me! bwahahaha

You don't have to cut and glue and wait. The thing to do is stick in the insert dry, without glue. Then use a flat foam target that the arrow's point will go all the way through. Stand up a sheet of cardboard a couple of feet behind the target with a box at it's base to catch the tip and insert, because it'll usually keep going after the arrow stops in the target.

I must've lost a jillion inserts and points before getting smart.[&:]