Just found out my brother bought a dozen Cabelas Maverick 220s, full length with vanes, need cut and outserts applied. He's not planning to use them because of the outserts.

Being the cheap bas, er frugal person I am, since I'm in the need for some shafts I'm wondering if these would work for me. I'm currently flinging CE terminators at 29" with 3 5" feathers and a 125 grain tip from a Martin x-200 45# recurve at 28". Anyone (huh-hum... JeffB ) have any idea what spine range the 220 denotes?

I know it may be tough to get a 5" feather on them, but any thoughts you have, please lay them on me. The price sure is right

http://cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templa...061&hasJS=true

Heres a link for you

Thanks for that. I had looked at it already, noticed they were out of the the 220s. Now that I've read the propoganda, can anyone tell me if they are worth a hoot?

They are made by Custom Archery Equipment (now called Oust composites, IIRC)...all the Cabelas pultrudeds are/were

CAE made a good arrow years ago, now I'm not sure. I talked at length w/ the owner back in 1995 or so...basically the Mavericks are a "thirds" grade shaft......Cabelas did have one grade better, but cannot remember the name now...

It's a filament wound shaft...actually not pultruded....this makes them a bit more brittle compared to the old Beman Hunters, AFC pultrudeds, Easton PCs, etc...

I never used/tested that spine, so I cannot say for sure, but the 230/2300 AFCs (CAE spines/sizes were similar I guess to be competition to AFC back then) were about a .420 spine...I shot the 230 CAE Pro Selects one season and they were similarily spined...so I would say the 220's are probably around .470-500...possibly even a .520 spine..which may actually fly better out of your X200...but hard to say....

def worth giving them a try....I really wish pultrudeds were still being made...good ones were great shafts and generally of much better quality than most of the carbons we have today, and the penetration is just tops (hence the resurgence of the small diameter carbons from Easton/Beman..they knew how good the pultrudeds were for that)...just the outserts were a pain in the @$$, and the nocks made it hard to get fletch clearance...a moot point w/ todays drop-away rests or a traditional bow.

You may be able to get some offset/helical on them....I could get a mild helical on my old 2300 AFCs...so it may work...you should probably try 4" feathers instead..or 5" in an offset..

Thanks Jeff.

Based on all that, it sounds like it may take some work to figure out the proper cut to get the right spine, and even then they may not be matched well enough to get a group to hunt with since they're 3rds. Time I'm not likely to have any time soon...

Sounds like a good late winter project after the upcoming season closes.

Since we're kind of on the subject, how critical is spine consistency and straightness for traditional bows since the speeds/energy are so much lower than compounds and the shots are relatively short? Can one get away with lesser grade shaftings and still be good to go?

I'm no tuning expert for traditional gear, but in my limited experience, I don't think the consistency one needs for a compound is necc. It's important, but the whole nature of the beast is different. Most traditional archers are not shooting at quarter sized targets from 30-50 yards and whatnot.

I thnk straightness is still important...but not to the same degree...meaning...I can deal with a little wobble on a nock or point end on an arrow shooting 175 FPS with three 5.5 " banana cuts when you're trying to hit a 4" "spot" at15 yards. Shooting a dime sized spot at25 yards plus with a bow shooting 300 FPS and carbons fletched with 4"vanesis a different story.

Spine I think would be more critical...because of the archer's paradox....you'll see most wood arrow guysthat shoot trad tournamentsare really intomatching spine (and weight) quite carefully...or shooting alum or carbon for greater consistency...anytime fingers are involved...bows get picky...

so yeah it's not *as* critical from my limited experience..however that *doesn't* mean it is not critical.

Perhaps Chad, Arthur and other's more knowledgeable in the trad aspect will chime in....

I can't tell you about the cabela's arrows. I've only shot cedar and ash out of my traditional bows. I will agree with Jeff that the specifics are not as important as when shooting with wheels (guess its all cams these days, just dated myself there..lol). Spine is much more important and I guess that weight is with the longer shots. Most of usshootinng traditional aren't taking too many long shots unless stumpshooting and playing a bit of competion with who ever we're with. When I was buying shafts from a friend who was a dealer, I'd go over and spine and weigh all of the shafts until I got a dozen that were almost identical. I did it because I could, can't say I could shoot any better with those shafts than the dozen random "practice" shafts he would sell me for cheap that were only rough spined and not weighed. If your buying carbon/aluminum you'll have consistency. Shoot several different spines through your bow if you can to see what flies best.

Thanks.

Reason I was wondering is Last fall Art recommended I get a 4560 CE terminator from Walmart to see how it flew. Slapped on a 125 grain tip, and it flys perfectly for this bow, even with vanes.

I'd like to simply hit Walmart for 3 or 4 more as the price is right and it'd be convenient as heck, but I guess the risk I run is the spines won't match and I'll get varying point of impact. Guess I can do it, shoot each one with the same tip and see what happens. If I get poor results, I can always return them.

Any quick easy way to judge spine while you're in Walmart?

I beleive the better grade carbons from Cabelas were called the SST's.

Sure...here'smy step by step guide:

1) Head over to the "furniture" and grab two of the "easy to assemble" night stands. Once assembled place them 28"(26" for woodies)apart. Lay the arrow shaft across the nightstands.

2) Go to the bike section and confiscate the pressure gauge of a tire pump. Attach to one of the nightstands with wood screws from "hardware"

3) Go over to sporting goods and pick up one of those littleone pound dumbells for women (No I don't mean the idiot teenagerbehind the counter selling them either)

4) Grab a Flower pot hanger from "home & garden"

5) Attach the dumbell to the the flower pot hanger.

6) place the hanger on the center of the arrow shaft

7) get a reading from the tirepump guage

If you actually get a reading, you've done something wrong