Hobbes

Thanks to all of you who have helped me choose a recurve. I chose a 60" CheckMate Falcon, 45#@28". I decided to work on my shooting abilities first with the 45#, and I liked having a reason to buy another bow later. I have decided to stick with aluminum arrows for now. Don't want to overload the amount I need to learn all at once. The bow should be here within 2wks. so I was hoping to be ready to shoot when it arrived.
I have a few dozen arrows of different sizes that I hope to use after having them refletched with feathers. What I have immediately available are 2413 and 2117. Both selections are 31" arrows. Both are listed within the range of the arrow chart I have for a recurve shooting 125gr. head @ 44 to 49#. The 2413 is listed for a 31" arrow showing raw wt. of 322gr. The 2117 is listed for a 30" arrow showing 361gr.
My first question is what length arrow can I expect to need, drawing the above mentioned bow to 29"? Should I expect one of my choices above to shoot well or should I expect to purchase more arrows? Any suggestion on arrows will be more than welcome.
I am having a flemish string made for the bow because it has been suggested by people with more knowledge than myself. What makes a string a "flemish string"?
Does anyone know the suggested brace height for the Falcon?

Normally by this time of year the last thing on my mind is shooting my bow. Now that I have a recurve coming, I can't hardly wait to start shooting. I hope I remain as pumped after I see the reality of learning to shoot instinctive.
Thanks again for all the help.

Bodkin

I shoot a CM Raven 47@28" I find my bow "likes" 1916 with a 125 grn head. Cut to 29" and with 5" shield cut feathers. I fletch them with just a litte off set. Of course it will shoot 2018 same set up but I need to adjust my shot.
I would cut your arrows 29.5" from behind point to bottom of nock. But others may dissagree. Thats the fun of it all.

Edited by - Bodkin on 01/08/2002 23:59:37

Lilhunter

Best of luck with your new bow! I will let the more knowledgeables speakith and learn from there wisdom.....

Your fire will never die in the world of stickbows...it only burns stronger with every new aspect you learn!

Wahya

First, congratulations on your fine purchase. Even though I've never shot that particular CM, I think you are going to like the bow.

Personally, I'd wait until the bow arrives before buying additional arrows. Shoot it for awhile and see what happens to your draw length. A few people don't lose any when shooting traditional equipment and the only true way for you to know if you will or not is to actually shoot the bow. You will be focusing on form and release more than accuracy at first anyway so your old arrows should be fine at first, but then you'll want to get a set made for the bow that will fly well from it. Oh, good idea to get them fletched in feathers.

My lady shoots a 28" 1916 with 125g point from her 45# at her draw CM hunter II with a dynaflight97 flemish twist string. When I shot the bow @50# the bow liked a 55/60 or 29" 2016 both with 125g point. It is really a personal thing as to which arrow your bow will like. If you and another person were shooting the same bow and had the same draw, you would still release the bow differently and would probably use a slightly different arrow spine.

Patience and fun are the key to learning to shoot traditional equipment. If you havn't already done so, buy yourself a book or two on shooting. Try out the different methods and then come up with your own that suits your body and attitude. Or, stick with one you like and works for you. Most of all, have fun. That's what it is all about.

stealthycat

Hobbes - Its just my opinion, but once you get your bow, I'd shoot it a few days and get comfortable with it. Comfortable meaning your grip, you release, your form if you will. Then, bare shaft tune that baby ! I had 5 or 6 different aluminum Eastons, and i started at 32" and started cutting them back 1/4" - 1/2" at a time. A 2216 cut to 29 1/4" flies like darts out of my bow, bare shaft. When fletched, I know if they fly bad its because of me, not the arrow (unless it bent )

Thats the way to find the best shaft for your bow, but for a week or two just shoot what you have and have a little fun bonding with your new bow !

K_N

Are you using the Easton chart?
It seems to be over spined for traditional shooters. I have had much better luck using this chart for my Checkmate Hunter recurve.

http://home.pmt.org/~kplp/spinechart.html

stealthycat

K N - Why I wonder does this chart show a 2016/2018 for my longbow, yet the 2216 flew by far and away better than all other ??? Interesting .....

stealthycat

Ok, I had to wonder so I just called Mr Adcock - he said the bow design and the particular way I shoot shouldn't matter, but that what might matter is that by going to a 2216 instead of 2016, I shift the ceter of the arrows on the arrows shelf. How that matters I aint quite sure, but I do know that a bare shaft 2216 flies like darts at where I look and the 2016's and 2018's fly nock left and hit to the right - just goes to show the charts aint always right !

Edited by - stealthycat on 01/09/2002 11:48:27

Bodkin

You would think that the 2216 being thicker would shift your arrow further away from center. Thus increasing paradox... but I guess not. Oh its soooo much fun,this archery thing.<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Lilhunter

for what its worth...

A 2016 is coming in at 61lb spine
the 2216 is coming in at 84lb spine! Just some tidbits to help with your quest.