Just got my bow paper tuned out to 30 yards. Whats the next tuning step?

Go to the range and start tuning for best arrow flight to your aiming point. Place a vertical line on your target. Shoot at 20 yards and then 40 yards. If both groups are hitting the same (vertically), then center shot is where you want it. If not, then centershot will have to be moved. Do this until you have them hitting in a vertical plane. Then put a horizontaly line on the target (electrical tape works well). Then, at 40 yards try to hit the line with each arrow in a group. Then move the nocking point (or rest if you're using brass nock points), a very small amount in one direction and note the deviation from the line from this setting. Keep doing this in both directions, until you've found the point where the best groups are. Usually it's pretty close to where the "bullet hole" setting was.

An alternative to finding the nocking point is to shoot fixed blade broadheads and adjust until they are close to the field tips in horizontal height. It's important that the broadhead arrows are identical to the field tipped arrows. For this to happen, you have to eliminate any planning imparted by a broadhead being released in the wrong direction.

Become a better hunter.

The best advice I can give is to forget shooting paper at anything over 10 yards. It's a waste beyond that. But now that you're tuned, or reasonably so, learn to shoot good repeatable from. Form is all that matters in archery. Learn good form till you have all the right muscles doing the right thing without you even having to think about it. Muscles have memory, but they have to be taught.

Paper tuning is good, it assures you the arrow is leaving the bow relatively straight.

The next tuning steps, BH tuning, group tuning, line tuning, and/or walk back tuning, all require you to be 100% honest with yourself about your personal ability.

It also depends on what your goals are with your bow, are you looking to tune it for BH shooting for hunting, or target shooting, or 3D shooting. For "pure" hunters, i would recommend BH tuning.

Shoot 2 BH arrows at the target, now 2 FP arrows at the target. Are they hitting together? If so, you're done. If not, move the rest towards the FP arrows SLIGHTLY. However IF you are getting very tight groups with your BH, you might want to leave it and move the sight when hunting comes.

All the advanced tuning (group, line, walk back) require you to be able to do two things:

- shoot consistent groups
- be able to ignore "bad" shots that your form fell apart on. In other words, when you get a flyer, was it you and your form that broke down, or the bow tune that might have been responsible?

Group tuning when you can't shoot consistent/tight enough groups to tell if the adjustment made a difference is a waste of time.