What do YOU look for in a bow?
03-06-2002, 09:00 AM
#1
Boone & Crockett
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lehigh County PA USA
Posts: 12,157
What do YOU look for in a bow?
This is a straight forward question. What specific characteristics do you look for when buying a bow?
Do you look at the speed rating?
Do you look at the price?
Do you look at what type of cam is on it?
What helps you to narrow down your search when looking for a new bow?
Everyone has a particular "feel" that they find attractive. That is not what I am looking for. What I want to know is more objective and less subjective.
Thanks.
Do you look at the speed rating?
Do you look at the price?
Do you look at what type of cam is on it?
What helps you to narrow down your search when looking for a new bow?
Everyone has a particular "feel" that they find attractive. That is not what I am looking for. What I want to know is more objective and less subjective.
Thanks.
03-06-2002, 09:16 AM
#2
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Cincinnati oh USA
Posts: 626
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
This is what I like in a bow
ATA between 38 - 40"
Solocam
solid limbs (not into the quad limbs at all)
long machined riser
wood low wrist grip
brace height between 7 - 8 inches
right around 4 lbs weight
IBO speed around 300-315
large idler wheel
65-70% letoff
carbon cable guard (I hate the metal ones)
I have hunted with a 34" ata bow the last 2 years but I never was really happy with it for my style. For me the bow that matches what I like the best right now is the Q2XL
ATA between 38 - 40"
Solocam
solid limbs (not into the quad limbs at all)
long machined riser
wood low wrist grip
brace height between 7 - 8 inches
right around 4 lbs weight
IBO speed around 300-315
large idler wheel
65-70% letoff
carbon cable guard (I hate the metal ones)
I have hunted with a 34" ata bow the last 2 years but I never was really happy with it for my style. For me the bow that matches what I like the best right now is the Q2XL
03-06-2002, 09:37 AM
#3
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Jackson, Missouri
Posts: 7,051
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
- 36" axle-to-axle length, or less
- solo cam
- medium brace height (to combine shootability and speed)
- usually a speed above 305 fps (and admittedly always drool over those posting 315+ fps!)
- design, meaning not too radically reflexed -- though narrowing down brace heights as mentioned above may preclude some of this
- and price figures in about this point
- solo cam
- medium brace height (to combine shootability and speed)
- usually a speed above 305 fps (and admittedly always drool over those posting 315+ fps!)
- design, meaning not too radically reflexed -- though narrowing down brace heights as mentioned above may preclude some of this
- and price figures in about this point
03-06-2002, 10:03 AM
#5
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 520
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
It is a fair question as to what the process would be. In my case, most but not all of the bows I have bought over the last ten years have been Mathews. In that sense a lot of the stuff is already predetermined. For instance the grip is a super high priority for me, and I really like double mount holes for my rest, with mathews I already know where I stand on these issues (keep repeating "it's all good... it's all good"
I would go into the process with a tactical objective: be as effective as I can on deer, 280 3D, or IBO 3D. With the objective in mind I would be looking at the new models to see whether they will let me do anything the old ones won't. So this year the Icon with the round wheel would be a fairly different bow, possibly for all of the above uses. I would have to figure out whether it really does something that say my C2 doesn't. The Achilles heel of my C2 strategy (seriously!) is based on the MaxCam. I shoot this bow dramaticaly better because I was able to drop down 60# while still being in the 280 range, with a much more forgiving bow. The key is the MaxCam which isn't, however, a forgiving cam. Would I be better with the round cam bow, maybe even in the higher weight (70# is what I always shot before the accident)?. This is the kind of thing I think about.
On the hunting front, I couldn't convince myself that there was any bow with a tactical advantage over the FeatherMax, in other words there is no bow that would put more deer on the ground (though this isn't true since with the inguries I could really use this bow in 60#). I therefore resolved last year to get the very best accessory package that could be conceived of. This is harder because no shop I have ever seen carries anything like the best package, nobody has all the best sights, Stabs, releases, and rests, and they won't let you try them out obviously, so though I wanted to do this, considering the cost I couldn't make up my mind. In fact I couldn't find anyone who had even one of the products I was interested in so I would have had to buy blind.
While I am generaly considering the Mathews upgrade path, I am really open to new models as well but again, often I can't find them, so actualy seeing them or trying them would be tough.
Price doesn't matter to me at all, though these days it might stop me buying the bow as soon as I would like, but I won't buy something that doesn't meet a tactical need, and if it does I don't care how much it costs. Bows are good that way, there aren't any $100,000 double guns to hunger for.
I would go into the process with a tactical objective: be as effective as I can on deer, 280 3D, or IBO 3D. With the objective in mind I would be looking at the new models to see whether they will let me do anything the old ones won't. So this year the Icon with the round wheel would be a fairly different bow, possibly for all of the above uses. I would have to figure out whether it really does something that say my C2 doesn't. The Achilles heel of my C2 strategy (seriously!) is based on the MaxCam. I shoot this bow dramaticaly better because I was able to drop down 60# while still being in the 280 range, with a much more forgiving bow. The key is the MaxCam which isn't, however, a forgiving cam. Would I be better with the round cam bow, maybe even in the higher weight (70# is what I always shot before the accident)?. This is the kind of thing I think about.
On the hunting front, I couldn't convince myself that there was any bow with a tactical advantage over the FeatherMax, in other words there is no bow that would put more deer on the ground (though this isn't true since with the inguries I could really use this bow in 60#). I therefore resolved last year to get the very best accessory package that could be conceived of. This is harder because no shop I have ever seen carries anything like the best package, nobody has all the best sights, Stabs, releases, and rests, and they won't let you try them out obviously, so though I wanted to do this, considering the cost I couldn't make up my mind. In fact I couldn't find anyone who had even one of the products I was interested in so I would have had to buy blind.
While I am generaly considering the Mathews upgrade path, I am really open to new models as well but again, often I can't find them, so actualy seeing them or trying them would be tough.
Price doesn't matter to me at all, though these days it might stop me buying the bow as soon as I would like, but I won't buy something that doesn't meet a tactical need, and if it does I don't care how much it costs. Bows are good that way, there aren't any $100,000 double guns to hunger for.
03-06-2002, 10:14 AM
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,413
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Because I'm currantly looking at getting a new bow, this is an easy one for me.<img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle> At this point everything is objective. It will be another month or so until I have time to go out get the "feel" of each. My decisions are all based on what best for hunting. That is all that's real important to me.
ATA: 33" - 37"
Brace Height: 8" or over. I feel this is important for hunting in very cold weather, like I do several days each season. It will help prevent any clothing contact and give a degree of forgiveness that I feel is needed when taking shots from odd angles.
Cam: Single cam unless I find a dual cam that meets my other criteria and is as quiet as the average single cam bow.
Back wall: I want a hard back wall which I've never had on a bow before. I'm hoping this will make my shooting more consistant in the field.
Limb type: Solid, never been real crazy about split limbs for a variety of small reasons. This is one area that I may give a little on, if everything else is equal.
Riser: Machined aluminum or possibly carbon.
Speed: As long as it's a modern bow, I'll accept whatever speed it comes with. I've come to the conclusion that speed is no where near as important as many other factors, especially when we're comparing 20-30 fps differences.
Weight: Not very important to me. I don't want a super heavy target bow, then again, I'm not sure a 2.5 lb super light bow is the right choice either.
Price: only important if everything else is about equal.
There are other minor things that may attract me to a bow to break any ties, such as, level nock travel, recurve limbs, more durable limbs, lifetime warranty, smoother draw, or even more speed.
Having said all that, I have yet to find a bow that meets my criteria.<img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
ATA: 33" - 37"
Brace Height: 8" or over. I feel this is important for hunting in very cold weather, like I do several days each season. It will help prevent any clothing contact and give a degree of forgiveness that I feel is needed when taking shots from odd angles.
Cam: Single cam unless I find a dual cam that meets my other criteria and is as quiet as the average single cam bow.
Back wall: I want a hard back wall which I've never had on a bow before. I'm hoping this will make my shooting more consistant in the field.
Limb type: Solid, never been real crazy about split limbs for a variety of small reasons. This is one area that I may give a little on, if everything else is equal.
Riser: Machined aluminum or possibly carbon.
Speed: As long as it's a modern bow, I'll accept whatever speed it comes with. I've come to the conclusion that speed is no where near as important as many other factors, especially when we're comparing 20-30 fps differences.
Weight: Not very important to me. I don't want a super heavy target bow, then again, I'm not sure a 2.5 lb super light bow is the right choice either.
Price: only important if everything else is about equal.
There are other minor things that may attract me to a bow to break any ties, such as, level nock travel, recurve limbs, more durable limbs, lifetime warranty, smoother draw, or even more speed.
Having said all that, I have yet to find a bow that meets my criteria.<img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_sad.gif border=0 align=middle>
03-06-2002, 10:23 AM
#7
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: .. NH USA
Posts: 970
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Different bows for different applications.
Hunting-
Short ATA
Deeper brace height (7+)
Smooth drawing, fairly light draw weight unless hunting larger game (wanna be able to get it back in cold weather)
QUIET. (biggie)
Solid limbs only, preferably recurve for smoothness.
Built to exacting tolerances.
(I have this bow, it's the Merlin Hunter's Quest.)
Outdoor Target and 3D-
Longer ATA (38-42)
7"+ brace height
Fully adjustable eccentric system that can be fine-tuned to the highest degree.
Recurve limbs, solid only.
High precision machined riser, built to exacting tolerances, not reflexed more than 1 1/8"
Large sight window
290+ IBO speed
Blue(more accurate than any other color!<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>)
(I have this bow, the Merlin Max 2000)
Indoor Target-
Longest ATA (40+)
Deepest Brace (7.5+)
Deflexed or straight riser
smooth drawing eccentrics
speed doesn't matter
Accuracy, accuracy, accuracy.
Precision machined to exacting tolerances
Recurve limbs, solid only.
Blue (see above)
(I have this bow on order, the Merlin Supernova)
Good shooting! Pinwheel 12
Edited by - Pinwheel 12 on 03/06/2002 14:09:17
Hunting-
Short ATA
Deeper brace height (7+)
Smooth drawing, fairly light draw weight unless hunting larger game (wanna be able to get it back in cold weather)
QUIET. (biggie)
Solid limbs only, preferably recurve for smoothness.
Built to exacting tolerances.
(I have this bow, it's the Merlin Hunter's Quest.)
Outdoor Target and 3D-
Longer ATA (38-42)
7"+ brace height
Fully adjustable eccentric system that can be fine-tuned to the highest degree.
Recurve limbs, solid only.
High precision machined riser, built to exacting tolerances, not reflexed more than 1 1/8"
Large sight window
290+ IBO speed
Blue(more accurate than any other color!<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>)
(I have this bow, the Merlin Max 2000)
Indoor Target-
Longest ATA (40+)
Deepest Brace (7.5+)
Deflexed or straight riser
smooth drawing eccentrics
speed doesn't matter
Accuracy, accuracy, accuracy.
Precision machined to exacting tolerances
Recurve limbs, solid only.
Blue (see above)
(I have this bow on order, the Merlin Supernova)
Good shooting! Pinwheel 12
Edited by - Pinwheel 12 on 03/06/2002 14:09:17
03-06-2002, 10:27 AM
#8
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lingle WY USA
Posts: 527
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Just went through it!! I wanted something fast 305+ because I shoot a 525 gr. arrow and like at least a little speed. Wanted fairly short (32"-36"..I don't hunt from a tree stand but I think a shorter bow in some of the thick stuff I hunt elk in would be a benefit. Wanted a 7"+ BH. I shoot a lot but my form suffers when there's a bull bugling 5 yards away!! And yes PRICE!! I set my limit at $400. I looked and there are some fantastic bows under that price. I ended up with a.................HC BRUTE FORCE XL for $295 delivered brand new. Hope it lives up to expectations.
..I don't hunt from a tree stand but I think a shorter bow in some of the thick stuff I hunt elk in would be a benefit. Wanted a 7"+ BH. I shoot a lot but my form suffers when there's a bull bugling 5 yards away!! And yes PRICE!! I set my limit at $400. I looked and there are some fantastic bows under that price. I ended up with a.................HC BRUTE FORCE XL for $295 delivered brand new. Hope it lives up to expectations.
03-06-2002, 11:01 AM
#9
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Phoenixville, PA USA
Posts: 5,541
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Since I am looking for a new bow I have this info already written down.
ATA 34"-38" (Tried the shorties and not for me)
Solocam
Solid Limbs (I have had both and this is just a preference)
Deep brace height (7"+)
Smooth drawing
Solid back wall
Consistent
Quiet
Medium to low grip
Any IBO speed of 300+ is fine for me
I'll shop around for a good price but it's usually a lost cause since I'm left handed
ATA 34"-38" (Tried the shorties and not for me)
Solocam
Solid Limbs (I have had both and this is just a preference)
Deep brace height (7"+)
Smooth drawing
Solid back wall
Consistent
Quiet
Medium to low grip
Any IBO speed of 300+ is fine for me
I'll shop around for a good price but it's usually a lost cause since I'm left handed
03-06-2002, 11:50 AM
#10
Typical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: In a Tarpon Boat
Posts: 846
RE: What do YOU look for in a bow?
Frank,
I like an ata from 38" to 43" because bows in this range (to me) are more forgiving, stable, and more accurate than anything shorter.
I want a bow with the highest craftsmanship possible. Surprised ?
I especially look at the limbs and the way they're constructed.
To me, the current best limbs are Barnsdale, Merlin's new carbon limbs, Martin's XRG and Hoyt's XT 2000 or 3000.
Doesn't matter to me if they're laminated or solid as long as they are top quality.
I prefer a recurve style over a straight limb for looks and function.
I like a well built and finished riser with great lines and well built limb pockets.
I prefer reflex for hunting and somewhat deflex for pure target bows.
For components, I prefer bronze bushings with the cams, hardened steel polished axles, with plenty of spacers to keep parts from galling. Some companies are lacking there. I like hatchet cams and as long as they're precisly made they have proven to be plenty accurate.
I like a bow weight from 4 to 4.5 lbs. for hunting. For target, it can go 5.5lbs. for all I care.
The bows that most closely meet my demands for all of the above are...
Merlin, Bowman, Red Man, PSE Mach, Martin MV-2 and Scepter.
Again, no surprises here.
Right now, if I were starting from scratch, I would choose these bows for Hunting, Indoor target, and Field shooting.
For hunting I would choose the Max2000 in Sherwood Forest Camo.
It has awesome limbs and components and is quite a bit lighter than my Bowman and about the same as my Mach bows but overall higher quality than the Mach.
For Indoor target I would go with Merlin again and choose the new SuperNova.
For Field Shooting I would go with my Bowman.
Got to shoot a Bowman for something. LOL.
Actually, the Bowman is well know for long range field shooting.
As far as price goes.
If I can't afford the bow I want, I just save up until I can.
No compromises for me.
If I don't buy what I truly want, I always regret it later.
Sag.
I like an ata from 38" to 43" because bows in this range (to me) are more forgiving, stable, and more accurate than anything shorter.
I want a bow with the highest craftsmanship possible. Surprised ?
I especially look at the limbs and the way they're constructed.
To me, the current best limbs are Barnsdale, Merlin's new carbon limbs, Martin's XRG and Hoyt's XT 2000 or 3000.
Doesn't matter to me if they're laminated or solid as long as they are top quality.
I prefer a recurve style over a straight limb for looks and function.
I like a well built and finished riser with great lines and well built limb pockets.
I prefer reflex for hunting and somewhat deflex for pure target bows.
For components, I prefer bronze bushings with the cams, hardened steel polished axles, with plenty of spacers to keep parts from galling. Some companies are lacking there. I like hatchet cams and as long as they're precisly made they have proven to be plenty accurate.
I like a bow weight from 4 to 4.5 lbs. for hunting. For target, it can go 5.5lbs. for all I care.
The bows that most closely meet my demands for all of the above are...
Merlin, Bowman, Red Man, PSE Mach, Martin MV-2 and Scepter.
Again, no surprises here.
Right now, if I were starting from scratch, I would choose these bows for Hunting, Indoor target, and Field shooting.
For hunting I would choose the Max2000 in Sherwood Forest Camo.
It has awesome limbs and components and is quite a bit lighter than my Bowman and about the same as my Mach bows but overall higher quality than the Mach.
For Indoor target I would go with Merlin again and choose the new SuperNova.
For Field Shooting I would go with my Bowman.
Got to shoot a Bowman for something. LOL.
Actually, the Bowman is well know for long range field shooting.
As far as price goes.
If I can't afford the bow I want, I just save up until I can.
No compromises for me.
If I don't buy what I truly want, I always regret it later.
Sag.