I honestly think I am becoming paranoid about all this whisker bisquit talk. I have an original WB on my Bowtech. I took it off of the old PSE that I used last year. When it was on my PSE, I never really noticed any fletching wear. When I put it on my Bowtech, it was like it was eating them alive, and I thought I had it pretty much tuned. I got annoyed with it last week and purchased a fall away rest. The very next day I read Atlas's post on the WB and how it doesn't affect the vanes if properly tuned. Well that prompted me to take back my fall away and put my WB back on. I took it Saturday to get it tuned and to get my arrows refletched. The guy told me to shoot my arrows cock feather up to avoid any fletching from hitting the bottom of the WB circle. He tuned my rest and I shot when I got home. The fletching was improved with little wear, but I noticed that only one of my fletching was getting wrinkled. I moved my cock feather to face out, and noticed that all of them are starting to show wear. My groupings are good, it is just that I am tired of my fletching messing up. BTW, I shoot Easton Carbon Excel arrows with 100 grain muzzy broadheads. (Practice blades when practicing) I am afraid to change anything right now because the season opens here on Friday, but I definitely want to make a change after the season is over. I don't know anything about tuning, so I am not sure if the guy tuned it properly or not. (I hope he did, cause all it consisted of was a couple of minutes of eyeballing and 2 shots through paper....all for $15) I also thought that I might need a replacement biscuit, but it doesn't show any signs of wear and tear. I really want to stay with the WB, because it is so nice to keep my arrow ready to go while sitting in a tree. Any help on the situation would be greatly appreciated.

If your having someone tune your bow for you I would suggest this web sight home.att.net/~sajackson/tuning_guide.html . It gives you all the info about tunning your bow from eastons tunning guide or you can go to google and type in easton tunning guide. I've also been looking into getting the whisker bisquit for myself and I found a good review at http://archeryworld.com/bows/testtune/index.nmpl it will explain which type of vanes to get, I've also read reviews that most hunters have been switching to feathers when using the bisquit and I thought I would to when I get my W/B but the drawback with feathers is they have a tendency to get wet and freeze so I would buy that stuff W/B sells for the fibers and probable us it on the feathers to keep them from freezing as well. Another suggestion would be to try an ultra-nok xl to hook your release onto instead of your string. A neighbor of mine, years ago told me to try it and it solved alot of my tunning problems.

Hope this helps.

kreeves, i was about to post the same thing, till i did a search on it and you nailed my thoughts on this almost word for word. i cannot seem to find a spot where one of my vanes are wrinkling and eventually tearing up, yet i can shoot tight groups over and over. like you i'm afraid to try anything different with the 1st day only 4 days away. i shoot gold tip hunters with 100g muzzy 3 blades.
buisydad, thanks for the link, that really cleared things up. i guess it's not a set up problem after all, just the way it's gonna be with the biscuit on.

Follow this link to my review of the WB. It will explain what you need to know and help you understand the rest. I suspect you probably are using to "rubbery" a vane and you may have arrows that are not spined correctly? You can have contact with the "ring" on the rest if your arrows are over or under spinded or if the bow is way out of tune.
http://www.broadheadtests.com/ARROWRESTS.html

5shot, curious how too stiff of an arrow shot with a release could encounter ring contact if tuned for a bullet hole? Have you ever encountered this phenomena? I'm having a hard time imagining how it would be possible...

Please bear with me, because I am new to all this technical terminology, but what exactly is arrow spining?

The spine of the arrow is a designation for how much it flexes upon release of the bowstring from full draw.

The more it flexes, the weaker it's spine. The less, the stiffer.

Trick is to match the proper spine (flex) to your particular bow's cam system, draw length and draw weight.

Spine can be weakened by adding more weight to the tip, such as going from 100 grain tips to 125, or stiffened by doing the reverse, ie 125 to 100.

If you're arrow spine is to weak, it is most likely flexing excessively as it passes through the biscuit which will bring one of your fletch closer to the outer ring, resulting in contact.

I've yet to see definitive proof to convince me that one can shoot too stiff of a spine with a mechanical release and a shoot though or drop away rest, so I doubt that's your issue, but perhaps, which is why I asked 5shot about his experience as he's certainly done quite a bit more extensive testing of the WB than I have...

To get some input on your set up, why don't you list the following info-

1- Specific arrow and size as well as length cut to.
2- Weight of field tips and broadheads
3- Name of bow, draw weight and length.
4- Fingers or release.

KReeves

Take your old biscuit off and replace it with the new B2. I had the old biscuit on by Bowtech VFT extreme, replaced it with the new one and my fletching wear has really improved. You can trim it a little to improve it more. If you do get a wrinkled vane nothing a hairdryer can't fix in a few minutes.

I agree 100%. I have the new one installed and love it. I am having no problems what so ever. The new WB is leaps and bounds ahead of the original. Just my $.02

Here's my info.....

Bowtech Tech 29
70# 29" draw
Easton Carbon Excel arrows 400 spine 8.1gpi 28.5"
100 grain Muzzy Broadheads
Cobra release