bigcountry

Boy, did I screw up. I had some Beman 400 Hawks cut for me at 29". The problem is I am perfectly spined with a 100gr tip at 29.5" I don't know what I was thinking. Anyway, these new arrows (too short) cause a little tear in papertune with 100gr tip but the 29.5" are perfect bullet holes. And I think are too stiff now. Would putting on 125gr heads help this problem. I can't raise my bow limbs much higher, I am at 67lbs now. I just wonder if 125gr heads would be too much or just right. I might try to sell them on ebay and buy some more. Or is .5" that big of deal? Everytime I get a bad group, I blame the shorter arrows now. I have room or a shorter arrow.

Paul L Mohr

I don't think .5" is that big of a deal. The arrow charts are not even that accurate. You could try a heavier tip and see what happens. The best ways to change your spine are to change the length of your arrows, play with the poundage, or change the tip weight. Your arrows are already to short according to you, you can't raise the poundage any, so the only thing you have left is adding weight to the tip.

By the way, what kind of tear? Left, right, up, down? Are these the same brand of arrows as before, are they both beman hawks, just one is a half an inch shorter? Or are they two different brands of arrows. If that is the case things may be different. Any time you change something on your bow, the tune can change. If it were me I would just retune the bow for the new arrows and go from there. It can't be that big of difference, can it?

Paul

bigcountry

Same brand. Beman hawk 400's. It was a very slight up and to the right tear at 5 yards. I shot 5 times. I mean I see alot of guys calling that good. I have 3 pounds I could raise. But don't feel comfortable going that high.

I might try the 125gr. Its hard to change with I got something that works so well now. I mean, my broad heads hit just like my fieldtips. I get around 3" groups at 30 yards with both broadheads and fields. Took me so long to get fixed broadheads dialed in.

c903

Locate some of the brass shims (thin washers) that used to come with some broadheads that you installed on the broadhead. Using the shims, you can change the spine in small increments. The shims were great for fine-tweaking the spine.

Might try a True Value hardware store. Just make sure the diameter of the shim is flush with the diameter of your broadhead insert.
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ewolf

Here is what I would do. I would put the 125gr points on. Then I would shot a bare shaft. I would cut 1/8'' off of the arrows until the bare shaft hit in the group. Yes this is sucky work, but it will keep you from having to drop the poundage to tune the 125's, and will keep you from having to buy new arrows.

PatapscoMike

Adding 25 grains to the tip will make WAY more difference to the effective spine of an arrow than cutting off 1/2 inch.

It's really hard to believe that 1/2 inch made such a huge difference. Are you sure there were no other changes (lighter inserts, less epoxy used for the inserts, inserts not in straight on an arrow or 3, arrow rest moving without you realizing it, nock set sliding up or down the string, etc)?

bigcountry

There is a difference, I don't care what Beman says. I wieghted the two, and if there is only 8.1gr/inch, that would be a 4gr decrease. But what I weighted was a 15gr decrease. My 29.5" wieghted 380gr with 5" feathers. This new arrow weighted 365 with vains. Maybe the feathers wiegh more. Who knows.

Its not enough for me to lose sleep over. Its just a very slight tear you can barely see. I was just getting long range bad results. Like barely hitting the block at 50.

PatapscoMike

It's not the feathers, they weight virtually nothing. It's either the inserts themselves (some are heavier than others) or the amount of epoxy used. You could easily add 4 or 5 grains by using lots of epoxy...