Dalejbrass

I took the Dremel to the grip last night and carved away.............felt better in my hand shooting at home last night, but still not sure if I'm getting the same result. I did shoot some broadheads and they flew pretty good (relatively close to my field tips).

I'm going back to the pro shop this afternoon to see if the carving has helped on paper. It still boggles me that the way I grip the bow would cause the left tearing. I've NEVER had this problem with any other bow, including the LX, Legacy, Q2, etc. etc.

Now, I've got to convince my mind that the problem has been resolved and to get back to whacking the spot.

dwaasp

One may not want to shoot a Broadhead before a bow is tuned well, one can miss a target & they cost a lot of money. A 1.5” tear at 1 yd is a another story from 1.5 at 8 yds. Before the center shot bow a few had to be shot with some tear.

In some part, the fall-away is supposed to remove some of the problems of grip, form & torque.

To activate with inertia may sound like less trouble & less assemble. But the minute changes in form, grip, & torque we thought we may be helping to some degree, may trigger this rest at different points.

My opinion on any fall-away is that it should fall away (before) the acceleration pressure on the string comes to an end(8-10” of the power stroke, depend on draw length), so the bow does not become loose in ones hand & moves forward. This is where one may rid some of the sins of the bow hand. But this is perhaps the tug, that triggers the trap door.