I have a question about checking the tune on the Infinity cam. The manual lists the gap between the limb and module screw and says this is how to check timing. Is it from the bottom of the hole, the center of the hole, or the top of the hole? I tried to check mine and it might be good, might not be good? I used an old carbon arrow as a guage, works pretty good actually. My micrometer says it's .296 and the gap is supposed to be .298. That's close enough for me. Any way the arrow shaft covers almost all of the screw hole. If it is supposed to be measured from the center of the of the hole, then it's good. If it's the bottom of the hole, it's little off.

And if it's off, which cable do I turn to adjust it? The really long one, or the short one?

The reason I'm even checking on a new bow is because the actual draw length does not match what the manual says it should be with this module and stop setting. I usually have around a 25 or 26 inch draw. I knew it was a little long, because I discovered with the shorter axle to axle and string angle, and the No Peep I can cheat a little on my draw by moving my anchor back some. With the module that is in it (N6) it should be at 25 inches draw with the stop on the 11.3 mark. Mine is way past that, almost 3/4 of the way to the short side. I measured my draw length and it's like 27 inches!? That just doesn't seem right does it?

Or am I reading the hash marks wrong. Does each line represent one mark, or do the long lines equal one, and the short ones are a half a step? If that is the case then I sort of understand. 'Cause I think it would be on the #8 mark in that case. That would mean I have a longer draw than what is stated. I like the draw where it is. I am just wondering if I am understanding it wrong, or if something is off on the bow.

Any help from someone that actually understands what I am saying would be appreciated. Because if my draw is actually 27 inches I need to go back and have them install a #4 module, not a #6. I don't know why they didn't catch that when I bought it. They never even checked to see what the actual draw length was before I left. I just told them I normally shoot around 25 or so inches and that is the module they put in it. Then we started adjusting from there until I got it where I wanted it. I changed it a little when I got home as well, but not no freakin' two inches of draw length.

Again thanks,
Paul

Paul..the timing gap is to nearest side of the screw hole according to the manual..but I rarely mess with them, marking the cams with my own marks before the bow is ever shot (even marking over the factory ones), and then re-adjust as necessary. You way want to contact Pat ([email protected]) for confirmation.

As for the hash marks, yes, the short ones are "half" increments.

IME, many dealers don't have a clue about how the stop works. or at least some of the employees don't..they put in a new module and never change the stop I've owned so many I/F cam bows from BowTech that I personally can do it by the feel of the valley..but it takes time.

I would get the timing gap squared away as well as the proper stop position and then figure out which module you think you'll need to go to.

Thanks Jeff, that helps me alot. I do think I will get the correct module for it though. If it isn't too much I may just by it that way I have both. Do you think there is anything to be gained performance wise from installing the actual module for that draw? If there isn't, I don't guess there is any sense in messing with it, is there.

I just bought the bow this weekend. The only other issue is that the cable guard came loose on me today. I hope that won't be a re-acurring issue with this thing. It plays hell on the muzzy rest. Maybe that's why it came loose though? Maybe there is too much tension on it from the muzzy cable slide. You think I should take it off or something.

Well again, thanks for the info, I needed it.

Paul

Hey Paul...what'd you get anyway?

The drawstop can be misleading to some. The long post adjustment gives the impression that it can slide anywhere in there and be OK depending on where you want letoff, valley and drawlength and that just isn't so.

If the stop is too far back and the cam gets over rotated it can eat your string in 1 shot.

True dat.

I bought a Mighty Might VFT from schupbacch's in jackson. It' s not that far off, but the manual says shoot it a few hundred times and then re adjust it. I think I am there. I may take it in in a few weeks and have them look at it. I would rather know how to do it myself though. It's kind of a far drive for something that stupid.

I also want to e mail bowtech or something to see if I need to change the module or not. If it is not going to help the performance of the bow any, I don't see the point. No what I mean. But I would like to have the thing set up right from the get go just for the heck of it.

Paul

Pine Grove in Clinton (remember him?) just picked up Bowtech as well. He has a bunch of mods there if you need...he doesn't know how to use the drawstop yet though either. Still...closer that Jackson.

Deffinately need the new module. I just looked at it and it touches the axle. It has actually wore through my serving already. I guess I will need to get that fixed as well. I called them and they said just bring it down and they will swap it out, they have all of them in stock. They are only 10 bucks a piece any way, so I may just buy another one. That way I will have both if I decide to shorten it again for some stupid reason. I will try to do it tommorow after work, but they close at five. If not I will do it on monday I guess. I think I will fling some arrows through the chrono while I am at it to see what it does for speed.

The guy said he can't believe they were that far off on my draw length. I told him it was part my fault. We didn't really spend any time setting it up. I just pretty much bought it and took it home. Then started adjusting it to fine tune it at home. He said they usually don't like to use the post adjustment to lengthen the draw at all, just for this reason. That is what the modules are for. He said you can shorten it if you want to decrease your let off though. I told him my old bow was at 25 inches, but it was almost 36 inches axle to axle and had a string loop on it. This bow is 30 inches and I am shooting directly off the string. In order to touch my nose to the string without craning my head down I had to lengthen the draw length some and move my anchor back. I shoot it pretty well this way though. He said we would take a look at it when I come in.

typical male, I read the manual after I played with the bow. Oh well. I should have spent more time in the store getting used to it and setting it up while I was there. Oh well, chalk that one up to experiances learned I guess.

Thanks for the help guys,
Paul

I'd just as soon go to jackson since that's where I bought it. I just drove by there the other day and I thought I saw a for sale sign out in front. Is he still going to run the shop or what? Maybe I saw wrong or something. I wonder if I could have gotten a better price from him though? Oh well, water under the bridge now.

Thanks,
Paul

Paul, one thing to keep in mind. The string angle on the MM is much steeper than your Darton (if I remember correctly) was. The draw stop is more for tweaking draw length slightly, and setting valley and let off. Set too long, and the cam will over rotate causing excessive serving wear. Get the proper module installed, and fine tune with the stop. Good luck with your new Mighty Mite. BTW, how've you been?

mine cable guard came loose also on my 2004 pat. i glued it in place about 4 months ago and it hasn't come loose again.