bowtech timing?
 

I have a question about checking the tune on the Infinity cam. The manual lists the gap between the limb and module screw and says this is how to check timing. Is it from the bottom of the hole, the center of the hole, or the top of the hole? I tried to check mine and it might be good, might not be good? I used an old carbon arrow as a guage, works pretty good actually. My micrometer says it's .296 and the gap is supposed to be .298. That's close enough for me. Any way the arrow shaft covers almost all of the screw hole. If it is supposed to be measured from the center of the of the hole, then it's good. If it's the bottom of the hole, it's little off.

And if it's off, which cable do I turn to adjust it? The really long one, or the short one?

The reason I'm even checking on a new bow is because the actual draw length does not match what the manual says it should be with this module and stop setting. I usually have around a 25 or 26 inch draw. I knew it was a little long, because I discovered with the shorter axle to axle and string angle, and the No Peep I can cheat a little on my draw by moving my anchor back some. With the module that is in it (N6) it should be at 25 inches draw with the stop on the 11.3 mark. Mine is way past that, almost 3/4 of the way to the short side. I measured my draw length and it's like 27 inches!? That just doesn't seem right does it?

Or am I reading the hash marks wrong. Does each line represent one mark, or do the long lines equal one, and the short ones are a half a step? If that is the case then I sort of understand. 'Cause I think it would be on the #8 mark in that case. That would mean I have a longer draw than what is stated. I like the draw where it is. I am just wondering if I am understanding it wrong, or if something is off on the bow.

Any help from someone that actually understands what I am saying would be appreciated. Because if my draw is actually 27 inches I need to go back and have them install a #4 module, not a #6. I don't know why they didn't catch that when I bought it. They never even checked to see what the actual draw length was before I left. I just told them I normally shoot around 25 or so inches and that is the module they put in it. Then we started adjusting from there until I got it where I wanted it. I changed it a little when I got home as well, but not no freakin' two inches of draw length.

Again thanks,
Paul

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Paul..the timing gap is to nearest side of the screw hole according to the manual..but I rarely mess with them, marking the cams with my own marks before the bow is ever shot (even marking over the factory ones), and then re-adjust as necessary. You way want to contact Pat ([email protected]) for confirmation.

As for the hash marks, yes, the short ones are "half" increments.

IME, many dealers don't have a clue about how the stop works. or at least some of the employees don't..they put in a new module and never change the stop :eek:I've owned so many I/F cam bows from BowTech that I personally can do it by the feel of the valley..but it takes time.

I would get the timing gap squared away as well as the proper stop position and then figure out which module you think you'll need to go to.

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Thanks Jeff, that helps me alot. I do think I will get the correct module for it though. If it isn't too much I may just by it that way I have both. Do you think there is anything to be gained performance wise from installing the actual module for that draw? If there isn't, I don't guess there is any sense in messing with it, is there.

I just bought the bow this weekend. The only other issue is that the cable guard came loose on me today. I hope that won't be a re-acurring issue with this thing. It plays hell on the muzzy rest. Maybe that's why it came loose though? Maybe there is too much tension on it from the muzzy cable slide. You think I should take it off or something.

Well again, thanks for the info, I needed it.

Paul

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Hey Paul...what'd you get anyway?

The drawstop can be misleading to some. The long post adjustment gives the impression that it can slide anywhere in there and be OK depending on where you want letoff, valley and drawlength and that just isn't so.

If the stop is too far back and the cam gets over rotated it can eat your string in 1 shot.

True dat.

RE: bowtech timing?
 

I bought a Mighty Might VFT from schupbacch's in jackson. It' s not that far off, but the manual says shoot it a few hundred times and then re adjust it. I think I am there. I may take it in in a few weeks and have them look at it. I would rather know how to do it myself though. It's kind of a far drive for something that stupid.

I also want to e mail bowtech or something to see if I need to change the module or not. If it is not going to help the performance of the bow any, I don't see the point. No what I mean. But I would like to have the thing set up right from the get go just for the heck of it.

Paul

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Pine Grove in Clinton (remember him?) just picked up Bowtech as well. He has a bunch of mods there if you need...he doesn't know how to use the drawstop yet though either. Still...closer that Jackson.

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Deffinately need the new module. I just looked at it and it touches the axle. It has actually wore through my serving already. I guess I will need to get that fixed as well. I called them and they said just bring it down and they will swap it out, they have all of them in stock. They are only 10 bucks a piece any way, so I may just buy another one. That way I will have both if I decide to shorten it again for some stupid reason. I will try to do it tommorow after work, but they close at five. If not I will do it on monday I guess. I think I will fling some arrows through the chrono while I am at it to see what it does for speed.

The guy said he can't believe they were that far off on my draw length. I told him it was part my fault. We didn't really spend any time setting it up. I just pretty much bought it and took it home. Then started adjusting it to fine tune it at home. He said they usually don't like to use the post adjustment to lengthen the draw at all, just for this reason. That is what the modules are for. He said you can shorten it if you want to decrease your let off though. I told him my old bow was at 25 inches, but it was almost 36 inches axle to axle and had a string loop on it. This bow is 30 inches and I am shooting directly off the string. In order to touch my nose to the string without craning my head down I had to lengthen the draw length some and move my anchor back. I shoot it pretty well this way though. He said we would take a look at it when I come in.

typical male, I read the manual after I played with the bow. Oh well. I should have spent more time in the store getting used to it and setting it up while I was there. Oh well, chalk that one up to experiances learned I guess.

Thanks for the help guys,
Paul

RE: bowtech timing?
 

I'd just as soon go to jackson since that's where I bought it. I just drove by there the other day and I thought I saw a for sale sign out in front. Is he still going to run the shop or what? Maybe I saw wrong or something. I wonder if I could have gotten a better price from him though? Oh well, water under the bridge now.

Thanks,
Paul

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Paul, one thing to keep in mind. The string angle on the MM is much steeper than your Darton (if I remember correctly) was. The draw stop is more for tweaking draw length slightly, and setting valley and let off. Set too long, and the cam will over rotate causing excessive serving wear. Get the proper module installed, and fine tune with the stop. Good luck with your new Mighty Mite. BTW, how've you been?

RE: bowtech timing?
 

mine cable guard came loose also on my 2004 pat. i glued it in place about 4 months ago and it hasn't come loose again.

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Ok, here is an update. I went to pine grove yesterday after work. It's much closer to were I work than Jackson is and they closed at 5 in the afternoon. I talked to Jeff the night before and he said he had a few modules I could play with if I wanted. Well I played for quite a while putting the longer module in and taking it out. I discovered I can't really shoot that well with a 27 inch draw after all.

This is what happened. When you move the stop on the infinity cam, it does three things. It changes the draw length, changes the let off, and changes the valley. I had a 25 inch module and had the stop set so it would draw 27 inches. My let off was most likely really high, if it can go higher than 80% that is. Plus I had a pretty large valley for a single cam, around a quarter of anch maybe. This was letting me hold better at the longer draw length. When I installed the correct module with the correct draw stop setting I found I could not hold the bow at full draw very well. It kept creeping forward and breaking over on me. Common symptom of too long of a draw length.

So this is what I decided to do. I put the 25 inch draw module back in it and started anchoring the way I always have, with my knuckle right in the back of my jaw. I will just bend my head down a little to touch my nose to the string is all. From here I will adjust the post ever so slightly until I get the draw length just perfect for me. Then I will take it back to schubach's and have them measure the final draw length and install a different module if it needs it. Say if it ends up being 25.5 or 26 inches or so. I also want to experiment to see if I can get the correct draw, but with a slight valley and still keep the let off around 80 or 70%. When in the stock configuration these things have no valley at all. Pretty typical of most single cams. But now that I know you can adjust one into it, I would kind of like to have a small one. Not as big as what I had, but some none the less.

You were correct Kelly, Jeff really isn't too up on the cam or module system on these bows. At least he was honest about it. He just handed me the modules and allen wrenches and said have at it. He did however let me spend quite a bit of time messing with it . And when I decided to just stay with what I had he didn't charge me anything for taking up his time. I don't think he is all that impressed with the Bowtech line. He is really into the AR's though, isn't he. Thanks for telling me about it , at least now when I go back to jackson I have a better idea of what I want them to help me with.

So for the next few days I will just shoot the thing and then go to jackson where I bought it and see what they can do for me. Most of it really is a none issue. It shoots really sweet the way it is. I am just trying to make it perfect is all. If it has this sort of adjustability I may as well take advantage of it.

Thanks for everyones help. And I am doing fine for now. About to lose my job though. I work at Tecumseh products and they are about to lay off around 300 people this summer. I will be one of the first to go. Maybe next week, I am not for sure yet. It's ok though, that place is a pit and I am sicking of working there. It will just force me to find something better. I also have a girlfreind as well. After 5 years of not dating I decided it was time again. I also have a different car. I traded the Neon in on a 2001 Sebring coupe (2 door hardtop) Think Stratus RT or Mitsubishi Eclipse, same car, different badge. 3.0 ltr V-6 with a 5-speed manual. Very fun to drive :D. Also looks great. It's gold with a light tan leather interior with black dash and trim. It also has wood accents. It only had 17,000 miles on it as well.

Paul

RE: bowtech timing?
 

That's exactly what you want to stay away from though Paul. If that cam over rotates (as it must be set up like that) it'll chew your string to bits very quickly.

I'll pm you my cell # and I'll meet you at Pine Grove if you want. Or you can go back to Jackson either way. I'd be glad to help you get it perfect.

RE: bowtech timing?
 

Thanks for the offer Trushot, but your too late. I went to Jackson after work and had them look at it. I asked them if I could stay around 26 inches, but still have a slight valley. They did what I would have, installed a 5.5 module (25.5 inches) and tweaked the post back a little bit. I am just a hair over 26 inches right now (26 1/8) with a very slight valley. It feels perfect, I love it. It's most likely something we could have done, but this way they did it so if something happens they can't blame me for tinkering with it because they set it that way. Besides Jeff didn't have that many modules. If I remember correctly he didn't really have any half size modules. Just a select few that came in some starter kit he got when he ordered the line. Now I need to finnish setting it up and tune it. Maybe we can get together someday just to BS and shoot a little or something any way. If you don't have a place to shoot other than pine grove you are welcome to come over my way. I have a whole back yard to fling arrows in. I can get about 120 yards out of it if you feel daring;).

Like I said, thanks for the offer, really. If you ever want to try something crazy, we can do it with my darton, or I a have Martin cheeta twin cam we can play with. I think with the bowtech I will try to leave it alone pretty much and just shoot it. Other than messing with the sights and stuff.

Paul