Shooting problem
#11
RE: Shooting problem
esetter
unless you are shooting fingers and yoyr bow is improperly tuned a stiff spine is a whole lot less of an issue than most people will make it out to be.
If the spine to weight ratio is more than what the charts call for dont make a big hill of beans
and there is certanly no reason to change your point weight unless you are underspined then you would want to go down in weight on the front
there are a lot of misconceptions concerning stiff arrows and arrow flight
most of these misconceptions comes from these old schoolers who still shoot traditonal and still shoot with fingers where arrow spine is very inportant.
if your bow has a mild to medium cam you may want to consider going down in spine, but if you are shooting a hard cam which most bows on the market these days areyou should have no problems shooting a super stiff arrow.
there will be a lot of disagreements on this but that is my story and I am sticking to it!
unless you are shooting fingers and yoyr bow is improperly tuned a stiff spine is a whole lot less of an issue than most people will make it out to be.
If the spine to weight ratio is more than what the charts call for dont make a big hill of beans
and there is certanly no reason to change your point weight unless you are underspined then you would want to go down in weight on the front
there are a lot of misconceptions concerning stiff arrows and arrow flight
most of these misconceptions comes from these old schoolers who still shoot traditonal and still shoot with fingers where arrow spine is very inportant.
if your bow has a mild to medium cam you may want to consider going down in spine, but if you are shooting a hard cam which most bows on the market these days areyou should have no problems shooting a super stiff arrow.
there will be a lot of disagreements on this but that is my story and I am sticking to it!
#12
Giant Nontypical
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 9,175
RE: Shooting problem
BPS, I've not read a single one of Smilin' Chuck's books. Thanks for asking. And be careful. Us 'old schoolers' tend to get a little irritated by disrespectful twerps.[>:]
Your 'stick the lightest head possible on the stiffest arrow possible' theory works, at least to some extent, with target arrows. Hunting arrows is a different story.
Maybe we need to revisit your problem with arrow performance on that other thread? Could be that, in your rush to reinvent archery in your own image, that you never learned anything about properly setting up hunting arrows??
Your 'stick the lightest head possible on the stiffest arrow possible' theory works, at least to some extent, with target arrows. Hunting arrows is a different story.
Maybe we need to revisit your problem with arrow performance on that other thread? Could be that, in your rush to reinvent archery in your own image, that you never learned anything about properly setting up hunting arrows??
#13
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 81
RE: Shooting problem
Arthur P,
Sorry about that, I am shooting the terminator 6075's and am debating about whether to go to the 4560's or another comparable shaft.
Somebody on the range last night told me to try the 125 grain head as well. He said the heavier head would break the spine down some and make the arrow perform better. I am bear hunting this fall (from a stand, over bait) so I am not sure if I should stick with the heavier, stiff arrow or something a little lighter.
Sorry about that, I am shooting the terminator 6075's and am debating about whether to go to the 4560's or another comparable shaft.
Somebody on the range last night told me to try the 125 grain head as well. He said the heavier head would break the spine down some and make the arrow perform better. I am bear hunting this fall (from a stand, over bait) so I am not sure if I should stick with the heavier, stiff arrow or something a little lighter.
#14
RE: Shooting problem
arthur P
I am shootin a 260 grain arrow with a 55 grain Broadhead
flys like a dart and getting 67 FT LBS KE at 20 yards
\how much Ke is your arrow producing at 20 yards?
I think I do rather well thinking outside the box, No I am not trying to re invent archery Just trying to take the arch out of it
I am shootin a 260 grain arrow with a 55 grain Broadhead
flys like a dart and getting 67 FT LBS KE at 20 yards
\how much Ke is your arrow producing at 20 yards?
I think I do rather well thinking outside the box, No I am not trying to re invent archery Just trying to take the arch out of it
#16
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3,903
RE: Shooting problem
Could you please explain the tuning process that was done before you started having your problem?
You may have just negated the tuning process. Did you shoot a few arrows thru paper after you moved your rest to the left?
Because of my anchor I've had to put spacers under my sights on most of my bows to cure the problem you described. It really is a quick and easy fix.
Thanks everybody, went to the range last night. Moved the rest 1 click to the left and now I am right down the middle again.
You may have just negated the tuning process. Did you shoot a few arrows thru paper after you moved your rest to the left?
Because of my anchor I've had to put spacers under my sights on most of my bows to cure the problem you described. It really is a quick and easy fix.
#18
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 81
RE: Shooting problem
Bowfanatic,
All that I had done was have the rest adjusted with the laser, they called that "tuning" I know that it wasn't a complete tune. They were getting me back to square one after I had a guy at the range tinkering with my rest because my arrows were fish tailing. After that I couldn't hit anything. My arrows were all over the place.
I was told at the shop that there is no use in paper tuning a one cam bow. I have been shooting a long time but I do not have very much experience with setting up a bow and accessories. I am just learning by trial and error. I hope that I am not messing anything up.
Can you explain the spacers behind the sight again, I am not sure what you mean. How will that move the pins closer to the center?
All that I had done was have the rest adjusted with the laser, they called that "tuning" I know that it wasn't a complete tune. They were getting me back to square one after I had a guy at the range tinkering with my rest because my arrows were fish tailing. After that I couldn't hit anything. My arrows were all over the place.
I was told at the shop that there is no use in paper tuning a one cam bow. I have been shooting a long time but I do not have very much experience with setting up a bow and accessories. I am just learning by trial and error. I hope that I am not messing anything up.
Can you explain the spacers behind the sight again, I am not sure what you mean. How will that move the pins closer to the center?
#19
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 3,903
RE: Shooting problem
I wish I had a digital camera to show you a pic. Maybe someone else here can help me out and post a pic?
A spacer is a piece of plastic roughly 1/2" thick by 2 1/4" long by 1 1/2" wide. It has screw holes in it that line up perfectly with your sight screw holes and the holes on your riser. You put the spacer between your sight and riser and mount your sight to the bow. What it does is it brings your sight out to the right a little over 1/2" which normally gives you plenty of room to sight in and still have your sight pins in the middle of your sight guard. You can get one at any proshop. I also place a thin piece of rubber between the spacer and riser and spacer and sight for dampening purposes.
Hope this helps!
I'm gonna leave all comments pertaining to your proshop saying that "paper tuning a single cam bow is useless" to everyone else.
A spacer is a piece of plastic roughly 1/2" thick by 2 1/4" long by 1 1/2" wide. It has screw holes in it that line up perfectly with your sight screw holes and the holes on your riser. You put the spacer between your sight and riser and mount your sight to the bow. What it does is it brings your sight out to the right a little over 1/2" which normally gives you plenty of room to sight in and still have your sight pins in the middle of your sight guard. You can get one at any proshop. I also place a thin piece of rubber between the spacer and riser and spacer and sight for dampening purposes.
Hope this helps!
I'm gonna leave all comments pertaining to your proshop saying that "paper tuning a single cam bow is useless" to everyone else.