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Hmmmm? Am I right?

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Old 05-25-2004 | 09:17 PM
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Default RE: Hmmmm? Am I right?

My thoughts on this-- Comfort is job one---You do not want tension anywhere--- nice relaxed form is paramount to good shooting habits and accuracy. So altho sometimes my customers may in fact be "off" according to "perfect drawlength", I usually overlook that a bit if I see the person is holding very steady and they say that is where it feels good and they are comfortable. "Perfect drawlength" IMHO is as individualistic as the setups themselves, due to each individuals' stature, so at the shop I maintain a close eye on steadiness of hold and correct alignment and form, moreso than I do "perfect" drawlength.
Exactly - that's why I wanted to try the "Genesis with measured arrow" concept - not to see what each person's "textbook" draw length was, but to measure their most comfortable and stable drawlength. If I went with what I told was my exact draw length when I first got into archery, I would be shooting a 28" DL. I shoot a 29.5" DL and a 1/2" string loop very well. It just feels better to me, therefore I am able to hold steady - and I am much more accurate!
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Old 05-25-2004 | 10:02 PM
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Default RE: Hmmmm? Am I right?

The wingspan method is not a consistent way of determining drawlength. It is merely used to get you "close".
Pinwheel is not just right, he is absolutely and indisputably right. Any draw-length method other than measuring the length of shaft when pulled on a bow, is a rough estimate. In fact, I will go a step further. Because bow grips vary, pulls vary, anchors vary vs. draw-weight, and how a person's hand sits in the grip, I firmly advocate that a person's DL be established and mated to the/each bow that he or she will be shooting.
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Old 05-26-2004 | 04:59 AM
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Default RE: Hmmmm? Am I right?

Sorry, but I have to disagree with anyone that promotes drawing a light draw weight recurve, long bow style bow or Mathews Genesis style compound with a graduated arrow as your preferred method for determining draw length. If that is what you are suggesting.

Though I agree that the wingspan method is not the "be-all end-all" for determining draw length it does get you relatively close. When simply drawing a graduated arrow back on a lightweight non-compound bow the archer can have the tendency to overdraw the arrow thus giving them too long of a draw length estimate. Plus, proper shooting form needs to be demonstrated or, again, the shooter can end up with either too short or too long of an estimated draw.

The way I normally go about it is to start with the wingspan method and then pull a few bows (of the model/models that the customer is considering) off of the rack with different draw length settings in/around what the wingspan method is suggesting. By doing this I believe the archer not only gets a very accurate initial estimate on draw length but also does not have to worry as much about what is on the limb label versus the actual draw length of the bow.

Considering Roseaukaine's situation by asking this question on a messageboard I think suggesting the wingspan method and then heading to a pro shop to fine tune that estimate with the bow/bows of his choice is probably the best way to go.

Just my thoughts.....
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Old 05-26-2004 | 05:40 AM
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Default RE: Hmmmm? Am I right?

I think both methods have their good points, but with beginners, I tend to lean towards getting a starting point with the wingspan method. Form is usually very poor with beginners. The bow shoulder is forced towards the target. Their release arm is not in correct alignment. They tend to lean back. They also don't know what comfortable is. With every body part out of position, they have no reference to how it should feel. I think it can be good to force their body into a particular position. I like PA's method. Get close and them let them shoot a very bows with slightly different drawlengths. That said, I think both work well with the right person helping them to choose.
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Old 05-26-2004 | 06:22 AM
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Default RE: Hmmmm? Am I right?

Form is usually very poor with beginners. The bow shoulder is forced towards the target. Their release arm is not in correct alignment. They tend to lean back. They also don't know what comfortable is. With every body part out of position, they have no reference to how it should feel. I think it can be good to force their body into a particular position. I like PA's method. Get close and them let them shoot a very bows with slightly different drawlengths. That said, I think both work well with the right person helping them to choose.
This is true - and that's why I posted the thread here, because I knew I would get the best suggestions from everyone. You guys have taught me a bunch over the past 1.5 years - just trying to find a way to effectively transfer all of this to the bowhunters in my area.
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