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RE: HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHAT GRAIN OF BROAD HEAD TO USE.
THANKS PAB, I HAVE THOUGHT OF SHOOTING A HEAVIER POINT BUT I HAVE BEEN SHOOTING SO GOOD LATELY I DIDNT WANT TO FIX WHAT AINT BROKE
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RE: HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHAT GRAIN OF BROAD HEAD TO USE.
there are charts out there for selecting broadheads, but it also depends on your fletching and fps, going to a pro shop that really knows what they are doing is probably the best way to do it. Make sure you find a shop that will give what is right for you, even if it is the cheapest one there. I have learned that the more expensive new broadheads are not necessarily any better than the old standby. Once you get a broadhead style you like just play a little with the weights ntil you find what fits you best. I have played around a lot with broadhead styles going from 2 to 3 blade broadheads to various mechanical broadheads and finally came back to 2 blade fixed broadheads. Accuracy and not size is the key because if you hit a deer in the liver with a 1.5" mech. broadhead it will take much longer to die, if at all than a 1" broadhead through both lungs. Consistncy is the key and for my that is 100 gr. First Cut 2-blade fixed broadheads. You can narrow it down, but it eventually gets down to just some guess and check.
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RE: HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHAT GRAIN OF BROAD HEAD TO USE.
there are charts out there for selecting broadheads, but it also depends on your fletching and fps, going to a pro shop that really knows what they are doing is probably the best way to do it. Make sure you find a shop that will give what is right for you, even if it is the cheapest one there. I have learned that the more expensive new broadheads are not necessarily any better than the old standby. Once you get a broadhead style you like just play a little with the weights ntil you find what fits you best. I have played around a lot with broadhead styles going from 2 to 3 blade broadheads to various mechanical broadheads and finally came back to 2 blade fixed broadheads. Accuracy and not size is the key because if you hit a deer in the liver with a 1.5" mech. broadhead it will take much longer to die, if at all than a 1" broadhead through both lungs. Consistncy is the key and for my that is 100 gr. First Cut 2-blade fixed broadheads. You can narrow it down, but it eventually gets down to just some guess and check.
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RE: HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHAT GRAIN OF BROAD HEAD TO USE.
THANKS PAB, I HAVE THOUGHT OF SHOOTING A HEAVIER POINT BUT I HAVE BEEN SHOOTING SO GOOD LATELY I DIDNT WANT TO FIX WHAT AINT BROKE |
RE: HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHAT GRAIN OF BROAD HEAD TO USE.
THANKS PAB, I HAVE THOUGHT OF SHOOTING A HEAVIER POINT BUT I HAVE BEEN SHOOTING SO GOOD LATELY I DIDNT WANT TO FIX WHAT AINT BROKE |
RE: HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHAT GRAIN OF BROAD HEAD TO USE.
I agree with straightarrow if you have a broadhead on the tip it helps a lot to put some drag on the back end to stabilize the arrow. I shot with regular plastic fletching then switched to synthetic feathers and noticed a huge jump in my broadhead accuracy. I would definitely recommend synthetic feathers to resist damage from weather. I have shot them in snow, rain, heat and extreme cold and the synthetic feathers have always worked very well for me in all conditions with broadheads.
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RE: HOW DO YOU DETERMINE WHAT GRAIN OF BROAD HEAD TO USE.
I like to shoot for a certain FOC - 10-13%. As such I have found that on most carbon arrows a 125 grain broadhead with 4 - 4" vanes falls right into that range.
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