Help! I have been trying to paper tune my single cam Patriot, and it is consistantly tearing left. The setup is 28" draw at 72# with a Schaffer overdraw/rest with TM style forks. I'm shooting 2413's that are 26.25" from the insert to the nock valley with 100 Gr. field points. We have checked ATA length, cam lean, center shot, and nocking point. All of them seem to be correct. We found that there was a little twist in my top limb, but corrected it by twisting up one side of the harness.

It will not shoot a hole without a left tear, and the arrow seems to be pointed downhill when viewing the bow from the side at full draw. The guys a the shop called it ramping.
If I tune the arrow to centershot and a little nock high in the vice, it shoots a left tear, I can get rid of any up or down.

If I were to tune the arrow to be level with the cable guard at full draw, the up/down tear is terrible (but I can't remember if it is tearing up or down).

My timing seems to be a little off, they specify 5/16" from the inside of the limb to the left draw module screw, mine is about 7/16".

Is this causing the "ramping"? Could this be causing the left tear?

I know that I am at the upper limits for the 2413's, but we have shot them at much higher draw weights before and not had a problem getting them to shoot good holes through paper.

We tried a 2117 and the left tear was huge, I think not enough spine.

Am I missing something?

I know paper tuning is not the gospel as far as tuning the bow goes, but I would like to see a better hole than what I am getting now. My groups are consistant, and they are fairly tight, but could be better out at longer yardages.

Thanks for the help.

Fletching contact ruled out too?

I have the same bow, had a slight left tear that I got rid of my lessening the spring tension on my rest.

You can mess with the spring tension but I would go to a stiffer arrow.

The 2413 is a .365 spine class, and the 2117 is weaker (around .400 spine). You should bump up to a 340 spine class (2315 Alum, A/C/C 3-60) and see what happens.

All of the I-cams like a stiff arrow, especially the 2002 version.

Get rid of the overdraw and see what happens

Addition: I would definitely get the cam timing correct before going through any fine tuning procedures. Could it be the cause? probably not, but it makes for easier tuning in general.

I've checked fletch clearance, it's not contacting. I'm sticking with the overdraw/rest combo because I want the shelf along the outside of the riser shelf. I had a QT 3000 and didn't like the arrow over my hand without the protection the overdraw has (my pet peeve).
I tried shooting the 2413's with a 125 gr. field tip and an 85 gr. tip to change the spine of the arrow and see if one was closer than the other to shooting a good hole. The best tear was achieved with the 100 gr. tips.
I'm going to try a stiffer spined arrow, but I'm not convinced of this, we have shot 2413 arrows at over 90# and still been able to tune a bullett hole on our old High Countrys' we used to shoot.
When the guys at the shop adjusted the split harness to take out the limb twist, it ended up with one side of the harness longer than the other, is this OK? It has also made the bow louder, now there is a kind of twang like when you shoot a bow with no string leeches.
I'll also try reducing the spring tension on the forks, but I'm not sure about this either, it gave the same tear when I had the rest converted to a fall away too. Thanks for the ideas, I think I'm heading to Eugene on May 3rd and taking it to the factory if I don't get it fixed before then.

Do you have the rest center tuned? If you do then it has to be the arrows are weak, or torque on the bow handle. If you are kind of new to shooting i would go with the latter. Turn the draw weight down, this should fix the tear. Start with one turn on each limb and go from there. If solo cam bows have to be timed what is the advantage? Just wondering because you are not getting good nock travel. All bow problems(including brand, Hehe) should be fixed before you try to tune. Try the limb bolt adjustments they should fix the tear.

At this point, I'm thinking the spine is too weak, even though the arrow chart shows this to be an acceptable arrow for the draw weight and length. The centershot is definately correct. I've been shooting for 20 years, the difference between my old High Country's and the BowTech are in the eccentrics. I think the Solo-Cam is just putting massive amounts of energy into the arrow at release, and the spine just can't handle it. Easton suggested either 2315's or 2512's. I would rather shoot the 2512's and pick up a little speed, but how will they be for hunting? I'm concerned about the thin wall thickness. Has anyone used them for hunting purposes? They would be fine for target and 3-D.

WA Shot a bare shaft at 10 yards. If its left it is weak if it is right it is strong.