Check, re-check, re-tune your arrows.
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Baltimore Maryland USA
Posts: 1,385

Aluminums are straighter, but not as durable as carbon. Carbons are more durable, but not as straight as aluminum. These are basic statements about the arrow choices in general.
You wouldn't believe the disillusion about the carbon arrow craze. Carbons are getting better, but they've still got a long way to go. The bottom line is that the better carbons are going to cost you more money. I've seen cases of 0% yield when customers bought the 'cheap' carbons. In other words, 100% of them weren't straight.
The first step in checking carbon arrows is to use a spin tool. If you want to see what I'm talking about, grab a standard dozen aluminum raw shafts and a standard dozen carbon raw shafts and spin them. The last Hunters Safety Course class we had was totally amazed at the difference. Straight shafts is the beginning of effective tuning and positive results.
As in most things, you get what you pay for. The straighter a carbon the more it costs to manufacture. but will outlast an aluminum generally.
I've heard people say, "I have my bow paper tuned for these shafts, so I don't think tuning is the issue, so I think I will just try a few different brands and types, to see what works best for my set-up."
Having a bow 'paper tuned' for one shaft doesn't necessarily mean that "different brands and types" will work any worse or better. It is best to tune to a particular shaft and, when changing shafts, re-tune to that particular shaft.
And, don't forget to tune each year, at the least, with carbon shafts. They blow out just as quickly, and sometimes more often, as aluminums. Arrows are 1/3 of the system; therefore, more care should be given to them than most realize.
You wouldn't believe the disillusion about the carbon arrow craze. Carbons are getting better, but they've still got a long way to go. The bottom line is that the better carbons are going to cost you more money. I've seen cases of 0% yield when customers bought the 'cheap' carbons. In other words, 100% of them weren't straight.
The first step in checking carbon arrows is to use a spin tool. If you want to see what I'm talking about, grab a standard dozen aluminum raw shafts and a standard dozen carbon raw shafts and spin them. The last Hunters Safety Course class we had was totally amazed at the difference. Straight shafts is the beginning of effective tuning and positive results.
As in most things, you get what you pay for. The straighter a carbon the more it costs to manufacture. but will outlast an aluminum generally.
I've heard people say, "I have my bow paper tuned for these shafts, so I don't think tuning is the issue, so I think I will just try a few different brands and types, to see what works best for my set-up."
Having a bow 'paper tuned' for one shaft doesn't necessarily mean that "different brands and types" will work any worse or better. It is best to tune to a particular shaft and, when changing shafts, re-tune to that particular shaft.
And, don't forget to tune each year, at the least, with carbon shafts. They blow out just as quickly, and sometimes more often, as aluminums. Arrows are 1/3 of the system; therefore, more care should be given to them than most realize.
#3
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Alvo Nebraska USA
Posts: 2,057

I agree Len. The thing I'm most concerned with as far as carbon arrows is the nock end splitting due to hits from group shooting or from another's arrow. I broke a Gold Tip arrow once while shooting it from a 15 pound kid's bow at a novelity shoot. Shooting with two fingers under the arrow's nock, it fell off the string at the shot apparently and the string hit the side of the shaft, breaking it badly with splinters everywhere. That was enough for me to rethink my future carbon purchases. I have some more carbon arrows on order, but will be inspecting them after every shot from my powerful bows.
#4

Len,
Since you brought up arrows...and specifically ICS carbons....I would be interested to hear how you think the new Axis ST compare to some of the original ICS style shafts like the Goldtips, Carbon Express and Beman ICSH. Have you had a chance to do a comparison? Are the Axis any better in straightness, spine or weight? I keep hearing that they are but would like to hear your experiences with them.
Thank you.
Since you brought up arrows...and specifically ICS carbons....I would be interested to hear how you think the new Axis ST compare to some of the original ICS style shafts like the Goldtips, Carbon Express and Beman ICSH. Have you had a chance to do a comparison? Are the Axis any better in straightness, spine or weight? I keep hearing that they are but would like to hear your experiences with them.
Thank you.
#6
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,413

Arrows are 1/3 of the system; therefore, more care should be given to them than most realize.
#7
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: West CO
Posts: 941

ORIGINAL: PABowhntr
Len,
Since you brought up arrows...and specifically ICS carbons....I would be interested to hear how you think the new Axis ST compare to some of the original ICS style shafts like the Goldtips, Carbon Express and Beman ICSH. Have you had a chance to do a comparison? Are the Axis any better in straightness, spine or weight? I keep hearing that they are but would like to hear your experiences with them.
Thank you.
Len,
Since you brought up arrows...and specifically ICS carbons....I would be interested to hear how you think the new Axis ST compare to some of the original ICS style shafts like the Goldtips, Carbon Express and Beman ICSH. Have you had a chance to do a comparison? Are the Axis any better in straightness, spine or weight? I keep hearing that they are but would like to hear your experiences with them.
Thank you.
St Axis +/- .005"
XX78 Super Slam +/- .0015"
ACC +\- .003"
XX&% Camo Hunter +\- .002"
Couldn't readily find beman ics
#8
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location:
Posts: 2,994

Techy, there's often a big difference in advertised spec and actual as purchased and measured spec... Although I suspect the arrows you listed are spot on...
I see ACCs as the best of both worlds, excellent spec tolerance of aluminum and carbon durability (up to a point).
My groups shrunk considerably simply going from GT5575s to 3/49 ACCs. I won't worry about spine degradation until my groups start to open up again...
I see ACCs as the best of both worlds, excellent spec tolerance of aluminum and carbon durability (up to a point).
My groups shrunk considerably simply going from GT5575s to 3/49 ACCs. I won't worry about spine degradation until my groups start to open up again...
#10
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: West CO
Posts: 941

Keep in mind we are dealing with 1\1000 of an inch here. There isn't too much difference, but it is there.
I see guys with carbons out shoot guys with aluminums all the time, and visa versa. You can't blame too much on a possible 3.5\1000" difference in straitness.
I also like to keep in mind that canbons bouce back so to speak. If you step on a alumininum it is most likely bent or broke. A carbon is eaither broke or still strait, most likely still strait. I have stepped on carbons I have seen them shot and bounce off trees, floors, and walls and live to be shot countless more times (I have worked at a sport shop for 4 years
). I can't say this for aluminums. Everything is a compromise
[8D]
I'll stick with my carbons
I see guys with carbons out shoot guys with aluminums all the time, and visa versa. You can't blame too much on a possible 3.5\1000" difference in straitness.
I also like to keep in mind that canbons bouce back so to speak. If you step on a alumininum it is most likely bent or broke. A carbon is eaither broke or still strait, most likely still strait. I have stepped on carbons I have seen them shot and bounce off trees, floors, and walls and live to be shot countless more times (I have worked at a sport shop for 4 years


I'll stick with my carbons
