V Bars
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 20
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I am thinking about trying out a v-bar and I wanted to know which one is the best.I will be using it for 3-D only.The ones I am looking at are the Cavalier J-bar and the Easton V-bar.Which is the best angle to get for 3-D.Thanks
#3
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 520
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From:
I don't think V-bar is useful on a 3D bow, but obviously other people feel differently. Compounds, sights, and scopes, drop rest, and so forth, probably weigh about 2 time the average Olympic recurve rig. The point of Vbars is to increase stability when you bow weigh next to nothing. I'm just not convinced that with all the technlogy we have going for us with the average compound set-up that we need that. For instance at full draw a top recurve guy is pulling 50 pounds, and his arrow will be in periodic contact with the button rest as it goes by. With us, the bow weighs tons, the limbs may well be parallel, the hold weight,(which is relative to the violence of the follow through) is low, and the rest may completely drop away. Why do we need bars designed to stop the rotation of the bow?
I have both cavaliers, and they are well made. You can also look at the Shrewd and Specialty archery units which seem pretty nice. Doinker has a bunch also, both recurve, and 3D types. Basicaly the aluminum blocks are all faily well the same, There are some that have adjustible angles also.
If you have a bow that sits very unevenly in your hand due to heavy sight weight etc..., then a single counter weight makes sense.
I have both cavaliers, and they are well made. You can also look at the Shrewd and Specialty archery units which seem pretty nice. Doinker has a bunch also, both recurve, and 3D types. Basicaly the aluminum blocks are all faily well the same, There are some that have adjustible angles also.
If you have a bow that sits very unevenly in your hand due to heavy sight weight etc..., then a single counter weight makes sense.
#4
When I set up a v-bar. I mainly pay attention to how my bow ends up at full draw. I close my eyes and pull the bow back. I will open my eyes and check my bubble level. If the level is off, I will add weight accordingly until I am at level when at full draw without constantly checking the bubble level. This keeps me from fighting to keep the bow level at full draw and helps eleminate canting the bow.




