was wondering i hear the outback has no room for error at full draw due to its solid wall---was wondering how could you get a little room for creep--would you have to lengthen the string or make a adj to the cable or both to allow for a little extra valley.if you can allow for this wouldnt that put your cam timing off and chage the percent of letoff.so if you go in and purchase this bow and can make an adj for a little more valley of up to 1/2 inch which would affect your draw length would you for instance order one a 1/2 shorter than your real draw length to get that 1/2 valley to get to your normal draw length or is it possible?any suggestions or just choose a different bow period

I love the WALL on my FX. I rely on its consistency.

Personally, I think creep is a bad habit that is best avoided!

I've seen where someone posted that he put on a smaller diameter rubber cushion on the draw stop post to get more valley and draw length. You should check to see if this modifaction will wear on the buss cable or string,,, over rotating the cam. Some BowTech owners were seeing cable wear from having the draw stop post setting too long for the module installed. This might occur with the Outback also so you might want to check into it first.

Creep is not good, but having a little more valley is nice in certain circumstances. From what I am hearing the Outback is not for me.......I only like 65% letoff and having to shoot 80% letoff to own a bow is not worth it to me.

I assume by creep you meant more valley? Many bows have just as solid a wall, but a valley between it and dropping from peak FDC.

I've yet to read the post walks mentioned. What you are asking was one of my questions in another thread...

Cougar Mag,
The Outback has an adjustment to lower the let-off to 65%...its adjustable!

If you want more creep, buy a bow with two wheels and no cam. About the closest bow that comes to mind would be the Mathews Icon. Pulls alot like the older bows, and is a great finger shooter.

IMO there are just to many good choices out there to buy a bow that has a very important feature of it that you don't like.

When you start to make excuses or adjustments before you even buy one - one tends to be making the decision for the wrong reasons.

find a bow that has ALL the things you like - then buy it - no-matter who's name is on it

I tend to agree, generally, however the three or so bows I'm most interested in all lack something. If I could just combine some things I like about each into one bow...

In a perfect world the above statement applies entirely

I don't see trying to eak out just a tad more valley on an Outback as a bad thing. Heck, even with it's "valley-less" FDC, if one listens to their body versus ego and shoots the correct poundage, it's not that big of an issue.

I really liked the bow, it made my "medium" list... If there is a solid, reliable way to bump up the valley a bit, well...

ok---i guess im a creep fpr mentioning creepim just talking about a little longer valley.someone suggested to go to a longer draw cam and put a few tweeks in the cable and string to shorten them.i just wondered if there was a easy way to get a little more valley.sorry guys if i gave you the wrong impression---i dont creep and it isnt any good to do --i was just trying to give a example for a little valley.my bad!

Im in total agreement with this allso , my form [or lack thereof] lends itself to a bow with a generous valley , therefor I shoot best with a hybreed or twin cam in my bowhand , the older style mathews Q2,MQ1 and soforth I shot farely well but from the legacy forward their no valey technology is a definate nono for me .