Tech data on glue types
#1
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,862
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From: Illinois
I was cruising the web to look up the specs on Gorilla Glue to determine if it would be good glue to use for fletching. Other than a very brief experiment with "super glue" type glue, which I found to be difficult glue to work with, I use "Fletch-Tite"
The (super) glue sucked into the porous rail of feather fletch, liquid and gel, got into the lower part of the feathers and welded the feathers and impeded some of the flex. After awhile the glue would become too brittle and when an arrow smacked a target, the shock actually kicked off some fletching. Working with the stuff was mess. Screwed up my clamps, solidly glued fletch to the fletching clamp, and temporally turned my hands into paddles.
What I was mainly looking for, is a glue that rapidly cures, but gives you just enough ample time to reset. I presently have a curious interest in a glue that is rapidly cured when heat is applied, and remains strong, but does not take a road grader and a metal sander to remove.
For those that do their own fletching, here is a glue tech-doc I tripped across. I found it to have some interesting data regarding what types of glues would be good for fletching shafts.
http://industrial-coatings.globalspe...Glue Types</b>
The (super) glue sucked into the porous rail of feather fletch, liquid and gel, got into the lower part of the feathers and welded the feathers and impeded some of the flex. After awhile the glue would become too brittle and when an arrow smacked a target, the shock actually kicked off some fletching. Working with the stuff was mess. Screwed up my clamps, solidly glued fletch to the fletching clamp, and temporally turned my hands into paddles.
What I was mainly looking for, is a glue that rapidly cures, but gives you just enough ample time to reset. I presently have a curious interest in a glue that is rapidly cured when heat is applied, and remains strong, but does not take a road grader and a metal sander to remove.
For those that do their own fletching, here is a glue tech-doc I tripped across. I found it to have some interesting data regarding what types of glues would be good for fletching shafts.
http://industrial-coatings.globalspe...Glue Types</b>
#3
I use a glue that was recommended to me at a local hobby store. It is a 15 second set glue that is extra thick in consistancy. It works very well, better then any "fletching" type glue that I have used in the past. I don't remember the exact name on the bottle but if anyone is interested, I will take a look when I get home tonight.
#4
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Joined: Feb 2003
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From: Illinois
BobCo:
If the glue sets up in 15 seconds, it most likely is a "cyanoacrylate-based glue"; gel type in your case.
I know that some say they have good results with cyanoacrylate-based glue, but I did not. I try to be very precise when I fletch arrows -maybe an overkill at times, and I need ample working time before the glue sets. Additionally, I use an large bead of glue to set the fletch in a bed of glue. I then wipe the valleys in manner that cleans the glue from the valley and folds some of the excess up and onto the rail of the fletch. I tried this with gel cyanoacrylate and I went bongos and found out how vital having separate fingers is.
If the glue sets up in 15 seconds, it most likely is a "cyanoacrylate-based glue"; gel type in your case.
I know that some say they have good results with cyanoacrylate-based glue, but I did not. I try to be very precise when I fletch arrows -maybe an overkill at times, and I need ample working time before the glue sets. Additionally, I use an large bead of glue to set the fletch in a bed of glue. I then wipe the valleys in manner that cleans the glue from the valley and folds some of the excess up and onto the rail of the fletch. I tried this with gel cyanoacrylate and I went bongos and found out how vital having separate fingers is.
#6
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 941
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From: West CO
ORIGINAL: c903
I try to be very precise when I fletch arrows -maybe an imes, and I need ample working time before the glue sets. Additionally, I use an large bead of glue to set the fletch in a bed of glue. I then wipe the valleys in manner that cleans the glue from the valley and folds some of the excess up and onto the rail of the fletch. I tried this with gel cyanoacrylate and I went bongos and found out how vital having separate fingers is.
I try to be very precise when I fletch arrows -maybe an imes, and I need ample working time before the glue sets. Additionally, I use an large bead of glue to set the fletch in a bed of glue. I then wipe the valleys in manner that cleans the glue from the valley and folds some of the excess up and onto the rail of the fletch. I tried this with gel cyanoacrylate and I went bongos and found out how vital having separate fingers is.
#7
c903, that name does sound familiar. But the stuff that I use may "set" (whatever that means) in 15 seconds, but it really does not dry. I still have to keep pressure on the jig for about a good 30-45 seconds. And even then I have to be careful when taking the clamp off. What I am saying is that although it says 15 seconds on the bottle, it really doesn't dry all that fast. Not even close to super glue. and it is definitely not jel, like the type that comes with AAE vanes.
#9
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,862
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From: Illinois
BobCo19-65:
If you would, find out the name of the glue and post it here. I'll see if I can find it at the local (big) hobby shop and give it a try.
bbahunter:
I'll check it out. Bohning has always made good stuff, IMO.
Maybe I want the best of both worlds. I want a glue that waits until I am through with a step in the process, and then completely cures on command.
If you would, find out the name of the glue and post it here. I'll see if I can find it at the local (big) hobby shop and give it a try.
bbahunter:
I'll check it out. Bohning has always made good stuff, IMO.
Maybe I want the best of both worlds. I want a glue that waits until I am through with a step in the process, and then completely cures on command.


