Tech data on glue types
 

I was cruising the web to look up the specs on Gorilla Glue to determine if it would be good glue to use for fletching. Other than a very brief experiment with "super glue" type glue, which I found to be difficult glue to work with, I use "Fletch-Tite"

The (super) glue sucked into the porous rail of feather fletch, liquid and gel, got into the lower part of the feathers and welded the feathers and impeded some of the flex. After awhile the glue would become too brittle and when an arrow smacked a target, the shock actually kicked off some fletching. Working with the stuff was mess. Screwed up my clamps, solidly glued fletch to the fletching clamp, and temporally turned my hands into paddles.

What I was mainly looking for, is a glue that rapidly cures, but gives you just enough ample time to reset. I presently have a curious interest in a glue that is rapidly cured when heat is applied, and remains strong, but does not take a road grader and a metal sander to remove.

For those that do their own fletching, here is a glue tech-doc I tripped across. I found it to have some interesting data regarding what types of glues would be good for fletching shafts.

http://industrial-coatings.globalspe...Glue Types</b>

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

I like Goat Tuff.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

I use a glue that was recommended to me at a local hobby store. It is a 15 second set glue that is extra thick in consistancy. It works very well, better then any "fletching" type glue that I have used in the past. I don't remember the exact name on the bottle but if anyone is interested, I will take a look when I get home tonight.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

BobCo:

If the glue sets up in 15 seconds, it most likely is a "cyanoacrylate-based glue"; gel type in your case.

I know that some say they have good results with cyanoacrylate-based glue, but I did not. I try to be very precise when I fletch arrows -maybe an overkill at times, and I need ample working time before the glue sets. Additionally, I use an large bead of glue to set the fletch in a bed of glue. I then wipe the valleys in manner that cleans the glue from the valley and folds some of the excess up and onto the rail of the fletch. I tried this with gel cyanoacrylate and I went bongos and found out how vital having separate fingers is. :)

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

Sets in 10s

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

In your case it sounds like Fletchtite is the best solution, although it doesn't hold as well.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

c903, that name does sound familiar. But the stuff that I use may "set" (whatever that means) in 15 seconds, but it really does not dry. I still have to keep pressure on the jig for about a good 30-45 seconds. And even then I have to be careful when taking the clamp off. What I am saying is that although it says 15 seconds on the bottle, it really doesn't dry all that fast. Not even close to super glue. and it is definitely not jel, like the type that comes with AAE vanes.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

c903,
Try the new bohning platinum glue, it sets up a little faster than the regular fletchtite glue.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

BobCo19-65:

If you would, find out the name of the glue and post it here. I'll see if I can find it at the local (big) hobby shop and give it a try.

bbahunter:

I'll check it out. Bohning has always made good stuff, IMO.

Maybe I want the best of both worlds. I want a glue that waits until I am through with a step in the process, and then completely cures on command.:D

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

c903, I am writting a note to myself. I'll post it tomorrow.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

bbahunter:

I just got off the line with a Bohning tech. The Fletch-Tite "Platinum" sounds very good.

The tech said that the "Platinum" is Bohning's formula and is not a cyanoacrylate-based glue. The glue has a 3-5 minute working time and totally cures in 2 hours. That is an excellent time-interval for working time and then being able to use the shafts.

With the original Fletch-Tite (still available), I would guess that the working time would be about 15 minutes. I pushed the envelope and would move the to next fletch in about 2-5 minutes..depending on weather. I then would not shoot the shafts until they sat for 24-48 hours....depending on the weather.

I have used Bohning for 40 years. I should have went to their site in the first place.

BobCo: Still will check out the one you use. If I don't use it, others may.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

c903,
Yes it is very good glue, i just bought some last week, and fletched up some of the bohning blazer vanes on some goldtips.
I haven't had a chance to shoot the arrows yet, but the glue worked very well with the vanes.
I can't wait to try this glue on feathers, because i was having some of the same issues as you were with some of the super glue types, including goat tuff.
I don't think you will be disappointed.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

BobCo:

Were you able to read your own writing? :D

Bohning Platinum sounds good, but that does not mean that what you are using might not have a feature that might be better, or the entire product might be a bit better.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

Sorry it took so long c903, I tried to change my profile here and messed up my e-mail address (they send you a new password I guess), so I could not log in yesterday. I put in two requests for help yesterday mornning, but it doesn't seem like anyine is too quick around here. So I set up a new account.

Anyway, here it is: The product name is maxi-cure extra thick and is distributed by BSI (Bob Smith Industries). Like you mentioned previously, it does contain cyanoacrylate




Quote:
"Bob Smith Maxi-Cure CA Extra Thick 2 oz
Thick CA is used when you need working time but has the same tremendous holding power when set as normal CA glue. With thin CA, you put the parts together first and then apply the glue. The glue seeps into the joint and then sets bonding the parts together. With thick CA, you can build the old fashioned way - put the glue on the part first and then place the parts together "


Be sure to let me know how the Bohning does.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

I have fletched hundreds of feathers with Goat tuff and even crazy glue and have never, not once had any get into the feathers.

I can understand your quest for a better glue, but don't understand how you get glue above the base and into the feather.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

Rack, some feathers aren't ground real well and have a lot of pith left on the bases. The pith soaks up glue like a sponge, before it can set. That's exactly what sent me to using fletching tape instead of glue.

On the other hand, I've never had it soak through the quill and soak the barbs themselves!

C- Just trying to be helpful, so don't get bent out of shape with me. A little constructive criticism and a hint or so.

I've got a feeling that the glue problems you described - with what sounds like glue getting on everything within a 500' radius[:-] - is more the result of sloppy, rushed technique and disorganized work space than anything else. And repositioning fletches? Shouldn't ever have to reposition a fletch. Once you're ready to go to the jig with that clamp, everything should be 'right'.

Plan out your job. Get out everything you need and no more than what you need.

Organize your work area and keep it organized as you work. When you pick up a pair of scissors and use them, then put them back in the same place when you're done. Five minutes later, the next time you need the scissors, you won't be searching around wondering what the $%^! you did with those #$%! scissors! ;)

Develop hand movements and techniques that you can repeat EXACTLY at each step for each fletch. Remember that each fletch is an entire operation in itself and each operation is 1/3 of the total job. When each step of each operation is consistent, then each operation is consistent with every other operation. When all the operations are consistent, the total job is consistent and professional looking.

Finally, RELAX. Fletching is not a race. Getting in a hurry causes mistakes. A mistake costs you three times the time you would have used by doing it right in the first place. 1) You wasted the time it took to apply the fletch in the first place. 2) While you peel the fletch off, you could have been indexing the jig and loading the clamp with the fletch for the next station. 3) As you're replacing that fletch, you should have been placing the fletch for the next station.

With tape, I can do a dozen arrows in less than an hour - about 45 minutes - when I get my technique going good. When I get in a hurry and try to go fast, I can do a dozen arrows in just over an hour.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

Gateways I suppose[&:]

Pull the lock off the wallet and buy some trueflights..........LOL:D;)

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

I just buy what they've got at the shop. They probably are Gateways. :eek:

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

Arhur P:

I am not even dented, let alone bent out of shape. ;)

Constructive criticism can be received one of two ways; as a personal affront, or instructive. In my case, having worked with bows and arrows for 40 years, I consider your comments to be an instructional alert. In other words, when someone has been doing something for many years, he or she can form bad habits and those habits can become unconsciously ingrained. Sometimes it takes it takes a swift kick in the butt to alert a person that they have formed bad habits.

However, in my case I assure you that I have not formed any bad habits regarding building arrows. And I will not do a sloppy job. My fabrication system is good stuff, precisely set, and in good order. My working area is setup to easily move from one step to another (cutting to fletching) without stumbling over everything. My fletching unit is on a large turntable with two Bitz's and all the components and tools neatly compartmentalized and within easy reach.

I enjoy fletching, so I move slow and can spend an enormous amount of time building shafts. As for the need to reposition or reinstall a fletch. When I set the clamp, I will apply some down pressure for a few seconds to assure the base of the fletch is making full and solid contact. Sometimes I will apply too much pressure and the clamp will slip. I clean the area, apply new glue, and reset. Rarely, but sometimes when have someone talking to me while I work, I will become too engaged in conversation and make a minor boo-boo. However, 99.999% of the time, my finished product is good and durable.

The problem I had with the super glue did result with a batch of Gateway 5" feathers that I had purchased in a bulk sale. I had never used Gateways in all the years I have shot. I could not pass up the price for the amount of feathers I bought.

The "super-glue" was recommended to me. It was not totally liquid, nor was it totally gel. However, it was liquefied enough, that when I inspected the arrows the next day, some of the glue had got into the BASE of the quills, and had actually ran down my shafts. It was a mess.

Your advice is good advice for anyone to follow.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

I did not read all post but I ,like you,do not like the super glue type glues.They get brittle and do seem to come off easier over time.

The fLetch tite glues are far superior glue imo to the other types on the market.

I tried the Fletch Tite Platinum tonight and was VERY IMPRESSED with it.It wasn't anywhere as stringy as the older style glue and did seem to dry much faster.I would put a very small bead along the base and then run my finger down it to ensure an even and very small amount of glue on the vane and I was changing vanes much faster than before.


As far as fletching,I give it an A+ but only time will tell how well it works on the range and in the field.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

BobCo:

Found your glue at local hobby shop. Whew! $5.50. + tax for 1 ounce. Also, it is a cyanoacrylate adhesive.

Considering that I had bad results with a cyanoacrylate adhesive and that super glues have a short shelf-life, I'll probably go with the Bohning "Platinum" ($2.90 for 1-oz.)

I wanted to let you know that I appreciated your time and input.

Thank you.

RE: Tech data on glue types
 

No problem, let me know how the Bohning works for you.

The maxi-cure is a bit expensive. I think I paid 3.20 for 1/2 oz bottle, which will last me a year and about 5 dozen arrows. But it is still a lot cheaper then superglue!!!