Anyone else had a problem mounting a shakey hunter to their Hoyt bow? Was over at 5shots last week and we mounted a shakey hunter on a Ultra tec we tried paper tuning but got a high left 2' tear. we adjusted the rest arm to the right to get rid of the left tear as far as we could but still had about a 1'' tear. No more room to move the arm over as the arm is just a paper width away from hitting the riser. 5 shot thought it might be a spine problem w/ the arrows but we checked the BowJacksons charts and the arrows were an acceptable spine. Thought maybe someone here might have an idea????

I just mounted a TT Shakey on my Xtec and had it shooting bullets in about 5 shots or so. Try getting rid of the high tear first this time. Sometimes, if you get rid of one problem, it will correct another.

Have you checked the rest for clearence? Powder test the prongs to ensure no fletching contact. If you are getting contact, nothing will correct it until its eliminated.

move it to the left - thats the way I would move it

Watch for bow hand tourque

On my '03 UltraTec the "V" (I have a leather "bra" on mine that makes a v shape instead of a u shape) of the shakey Hunter is 11/16 of an inch from the riser. Bullet holes from any distance.

What are you shooting for arrows? If you position your Shakey Hunter the right way and your nock height is right, I would be suspicous of self induced torque or an inaccurate spine chart.

I suppose there is the possibility of a timing issue also.

Can we get more specifics of the setup?

Hoyt ultratec- xt 2000 limbs- 50 /60 # set a 58#-29' Draw- versa cam- dual trac idler- tried Beaman ics 400 arrows -29 1/8" from throat of nock to end of insert- fletched with 3 4" Duravanes or 3 4" feathers depending on which arrow I choose. Havent powder tested yet- SNOW but suppose to warm up this week- but shot inside at 5 shots basement this past weekend w/ above results- cant see where I could be getting any contact but possible I guess. Bow does have a Flag finish and noticed my hand was sliding up the grip when I drew back but will remedy this problem with racket tape. Talked to Trophy Taker rep and he suggested I lower poundage maybe but why change the LBS I want to shoot just to satisfy a rest or suggested maybe trim the arm of rest with side cutters? Holy cow !!! Ive still got my DEPENDABLE ZE I might just put on but I really wanted to try another drop away.

I personally dont see the need to trim the prongs. I don't like doing this. Since this is a single cam, you may want to try setting the nock a little higher. Unlevel nock travel may be pushing the arrow down on release and you're getting contact. Also, have you checked the timing of the cam?

I still suspect contact. If you elimanate that from the equation, then I would look at the drop away timing. If the rest is dropping too quickly, there may not be enough support for the arrow and allowing it to come off the bow tail high.

If the tear is as big as you stated, there is definitly something umuck there. Keep at it, you'll probably figure it out and realize it was something real simple. The TT is an extremely accurate rest.

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This may be odd but a couple of bows that have done that at the shop I've taken and put a couple of twists in the cable. I'm thinking that it moves the nock travel more to the center of the bow. The other thing is to start over on the set up of the bow, tiller, poundage and such. Having the rest pick up the arrow at the last possible second on the shaft may help. Think about what the arrows doing when coming off the sting. drop aways tend to need a more perfect spine some times due to fact that the laucher is not there to correct the arrow during the shot cycle. try moving the rest back to weaken the arrow and forward to stiffen the arrow. some times it does'nt take much.