I am shooting a bowtech exVFT. I was using a whiskerB but switched to a montana gold trap door (to try to save the vane wear). I am having clearance problems evern with the trap door. If I turn it cock vane out it hits on the rest and if i turn it cock vane up it hits the cables? I am at a loss for what to do. WOuld the trophy ridge drop zone have more clearance?????? Your ideas and experiences would be great.

I also have to have this set about 1/2" nock low to get it to tear bullet holes in paper?!?!?

WHAT IS GOING ON??????

thanks
citori

Check the measurements on the bow.

A-A
Brace
poundage
and cam position.

Make sure string/cable creep has not thrown bow out of time/specs

Then make sure you have rest adjusted correctly - they can be a bit of a pain to get setup to drop at the correct time. That rest is not just a slap it on and shoot it rest.

I think montana black gold makes at least 2 models of this rest , 1 standard , and the other for bows with paralel limbs .

Something is out of whack if you have your nock 1/2" low!I can't say i've ever heard of anyone shooting with the nock low--always a little high--maybe 1/8 or 3/16,but never low.I don't have an answer to your problem but i'm sure one on these guru's can help you out.

The bow papertunes with it 1/2" nock low. I have had problems with vane clearance with several different rest. With the WB I was only getting @30 shots before it destroyed the vanes. The bow shoots VERY well, but the vane clearance issue really buggs me. I had brand new vanes put on before I shot the trap door and now it has torn canes on half of my arrows in one shooting session.

I can check the AA, brace height, and poundage, but how do you know what position the cames should be in?

I am at a loss for a solution.....

citori

Too bad you didn't post this question before changing rests... If the bow paper tunes with the nock 1/2" low, then your tiller is out of whack and your bow is NOT tuned. Adjusting the tiller is the first step in tuning a bow.

Stretch a string across the axles and measure from the string to the belly side of the limbs (the side facing you when you're shooting the bow) where they join the riser. Adjust the limb bolts until the measurement is the same on both ends.

When you get that done, THEN tune the bow. It should paper tune with the arrow nocked level or slightly high and your rest contact will disappear.

Art, would it make sense to bottom out the limb bolts first then check the ATA and brace and adjust for string/cable stretch first then check tiller?

I know Rack suggested this, but can't tell if it's been done yet or not...

Arthur is dead on, definetly check the tiller. My best friend had the same problem with his old bow. To get "good" tears in paper, he had to have his nock about 3/4" low. This just looked ridiculous and he knew it wasn't right. We checked the tiller and it was way out of whack. We got the tiller length to match up and the bow tuned fine.

Range... I don't think it really matters which you do first. I'd probably make sure the axle to axle and brace height meaurements were on factory nominal before doing the tiller adjustment. But once you adjust tiller it's possible -not likely, but possible- that you'd have to go back and readjust cam timing with a couple twists on the string/cable.

At any rate, it's definitely the tiller that's the culprit in this case.

how much difference can there be between the number of turns on the tiller bolts without causing a problem?

Also the AA is taken from the center of the axels correct, and the brace height is taken from the string to the center of the grip pocket or to the back of the rest cutout?

citori