DIY Bow Tuning W/ Around The House Items
#1
DIY Bow Tuning W/ Around The House Items
I posted an explanation on how I went about tuning my bow myself after many many disappointments at local bow shops. I do mean bow shops in the plurality sense.
So it got me thinking, what do I want? I want my arrow to shoot off that bow dead center from the string. How do I go about ensuring I have it dead center? Well my vernier caliper (available at any hardware store for about $15) is digital down to the 1/100th of a millimeter. So after some rigging using 2 clamps, 2 carpenter levels, 1 bow square, a pair of nock pliers and my caliper, I can say my arrow is coming off my bow dead center down to .01 mm.
First I verified my rest was centered by making sure from the straight edge on each side to the arrow was exactly the same. Then I took my bow square and instead of using it to set my nocks directly, I attached it above on the string where each point was just strings in order to ensure it was attached the same at each point. I used my caliper again to ensure my arrow was running completely perpendicular to the bow square. Again, confirmed to .01 mm
Here are some pictures. For those who want to just double check the job your bow shop did, just using a single level and the caliper will provide you the evidence on whether your rest is centered.
So it got me thinking, what do I want? I want my arrow to shoot off that bow dead center from the string. How do I go about ensuring I have it dead center? Well my vernier caliper (available at any hardware store for about $15) is digital down to the 1/100th of a millimeter. So after some rigging using 2 clamps, 2 carpenter levels, 1 bow square, a pair of nock pliers and my caliper, I can say my arrow is coming off my bow dead center down to .01 mm.
First I verified my rest was centered by making sure from the straight edge on each side to the arrow was exactly the same. Then I took my bow square and instead of using it to set my nocks directly, I attached it above on the string where each point was just strings in order to ensure it was attached the same at each point. I used my caliper again to ensure my arrow was running completely perpendicular to the bow square. Again, confirmed to .01 mm
Here are some pictures. For those who want to just double check the job your bow shop did, just using a single level and the caliper will provide you the evidence on whether your rest is centered.
#2
I use my bow holder and an archery level set to determine my nock height. Most of the time my eyeball is pretty darn close. Then I use a little homemade "L" shaped gadget that I determine my centershot. Again eyeball is pretty close.
I appreciate you going through the trouble of showing how you set up your bow. But you do know that these setting are not set in stone (excuse the pun). They are initial settings that give you a starting point. Fine tuning is always required normally by adjusting the rest ever so slightly according to how your particular arrows fly (see the sticky post at the top of this forum) until correct arrow flight is achieved.
I appreciate you going through the trouble of showing how you set up your bow. But you do know that these setting are not set in stone (excuse the pun). They are initial settings that give you a starting point. Fine tuning is always required normally by adjusting the rest ever so slightly according to how your particular arrows fly (see the sticky post at the top of this forum) until correct arrow flight is achieved.
#3
Well, it's like this. The bow shops I ventured too over the years did such a crapy job, I was extremely pissed off afterwards. My first black eagle was set up by the owner on the store and it was awesome. My replacement black eagle was setup by his son, it sucked. All the other shops were the same results.
However, as I pointed out my setup now is within .01 mm. Vertically and horizontally on center. Unless you bow is twisted in the core, this is where you want the arrow to be. You can't eye ball that not even close. Which is why you need to adjust afterwards unless a core twist.
My arrows fly like darts with zero wobble and silence down range. An untuned bow will have arrows making noise that can be heard by a person or deer down range. You should try it sometime. Of course make sure you're well protected.
The point of my post beyond the beginner trying to do it themselves was to challenge folks who read this and question their setup. I've posted a cheap way to verify all the center measurements. I would love to hear from folks who find their horizontal off by at least 1mm to the left or right. That's the thickness of one dime. That's a missed deer in the woods. Tall tell sign? You're good at say 20 yards but back up 5 and your shots are off be several inches. Many try to blame the arrow on this type of miss. Same can be said with the vertical measurement.
Doubt me, by the caliper if you don't alreay own one and find out. NASA relies on them religiously.
Cheers!
However, as I pointed out my setup now is within .01 mm. Vertically and horizontally on center. Unless you bow is twisted in the core, this is where you want the arrow to be. You can't eye ball that not even close. Which is why you need to adjust afterwards unless a core twist.
My arrows fly like darts with zero wobble and silence down range. An untuned bow will have arrows making noise that can be heard by a person or deer down range. You should try it sometime. Of course make sure you're well protected.
The point of my post beyond the beginner trying to do it themselves was to challenge folks who read this and question their setup. I've posted a cheap way to verify all the center measurements. I would love to hear from folks who find their horizontal off by at least 1mm to the left or right. That's the thickness of one dime. That's a missed deer in the woods. Tall tell sign? You're good at say 20 yards but back up 5 and your shots are off be several inches. Many try to blame the arrow on this type of miss. Same can be said with the vertical measurement.
Doubt me, by the caliper if you don't alreay own one and find out. NASA relies on them religiously.
Cheers!
#4
Fieldmouse - sorry to disillusion you but I've spent my entire adult life using micrometers and calipers and performing inspections of many critical items sometimes to .00001" and 1mm or as you say, the thickness of a dime (actually slightly less) is a lot. This can easily be seen in verticle or horizontal alignment using a nocked arrow by the well trained eye. And I've been setting up compound bow ever since their existance. Also don't forget arrow spine. That also plays a critical role in arrow flight.
My bows can shoot bare shafts accurately out to at least 30 yards and can shoot groups better than I can hold at 70 yards.
I didn't argue your method. I just explained what I do and the tools I use.
My bows can shoot bare shafts accurately out to at least 30 yards and can shoot groups better than I can hold at 70 yards.
I didn't argue your method. I just explained what I do and the tools I use.
#5
Good for you, I would challenge the accuracy of you eye though, lol.
Like I said, my point if for folks if they doubt their bow shop, I gave them and easy way to double check. After 30years at this stuff, this method is working excellent for me. As for going anything better than .01mm, not sure it's even possible due to the clumsiness of the adjustments you can make. Let's face it, neither rests nor nocks come with fine tune adjustment knob like a machine lathe or microscope.
Like I said, my point if for folks if they doubt their bow shop, I gave them and easy way to double check. After 30years at this stuff, this method is working excellent for me. As for going anything better than .01mm, not sure it's even possible due to the clumsiness of the adjustments you can make. Let's face it, neither rests nor nocks come with fine tune adjustment knob like a machine lathe or microscope.
#6
Just bumping this up to refresh.
I'm interested in hearing how others who might have taken my advice and check their bow with basic tools either around the house or for less than the cost of the local bow shop tune up.
I'm interested in hearing how others who might have taken my advice and check their bow with basic tools either around the house or for less than the cost of the local bow shop tune up.