need some help with arrow flight
 

I have a new Hoyt Charger that was set up and tuned by a Pro Shop. I am shooting 56 lbs at a 31.5 draw length. I have a drop away rest and shoot a caliper style release. My arrows are Gold Tip Hunters 55/75/400 with 2 inch blazers with a semi helical. My field points fly true out to 65 yards with no visable flight problems. When I shoot my 100 grain 3 blade Wasp boss broadheads the seem to fly fine out to 35 yards, however at 45-55-65 yards there is a bit of erratic arrow flight causing my POI to be inconsistent. I intend to end up shooting around 60 to 65 lbs by hunting season. I dont want to increase poundage now as I fear it will make my problem worse. What steps can I take to correct this arrow flight problem? Thanks for any help!

Have you tuned your broadheads? Especially since you're shooting helical vanes, balancing your broadheads is quite important if you expect your Bh's to fly to the same POI as your FP's.

Did you do any tweaking to your rest to ensure perfect POI matching for your Bh's and FP's?

What type of accuracy (precision rather) are you talking about with your FP's? With your BH's? At what ranges, of course...

If you increase your poundage and you have a fletching stabilization problem, then having the increased tail drag on your arrow will help. Drag varies with the square of velocity, i.e. double your speed, quadruple your drag. Fd = f(v^2).

What is your FOC for your arrows? Adding 1.5-2" of overall shaft length can sometimes push an arrow over the tipping point for stable flight.

Watch your back as you increase poundage up to 65lbs with your 5575's before hunting season. With a fairly fast bow like the Charger (325fps IBO), you may run into arrow stiffness issues and start getting some whip that you can't tune out. For bows over 300fps, I almost always go one shaft stiffness higher than what the charts read. The consequence of shooting too stiff of arrow is almost nothing. The consequence of shooting a borderline, or too limp of arrow is poor flight, wasted energy, degraded accuracy, and decreased functional range (read: killing range). Unless you're shooting a super short arrow, the 5575's will likely be too limp for your bow - by too short, I mean somewhere in the 26" range. Short arrows, or rather short draw length shooters have the advantage that a short arrow has a higher relative stiffness, and their short draws sacrifice a lot of speed/energy, so shorter shooters can shoot a 'softer spine' for the same poundage compared to a longer draw shooter, but if you're shooting 65yrds and having issues at 56#, I'm prone to assume you are NOT shooting a super short draw.

Thank you for the help. My arrows ar 30 inches. Tonight I tried some higher profile type blazers. The arrow flight seemed a bit better but I still can notice a slight diving of the arrow at 55 and 65 yards. You mentioned tuning my broadheads to my bow.please school me on this. I have never had problems with arrow flight untill I switched to 2 inch blazers.

What are you going to be hunting? You might have to go with different broadheads...or maybe try going up to 125gr broad heads.

Gold Tip's Arrow University Broadhead Tuning

Here's a link to Gold Tip's photonarrative for broadhead tuning. Basically, it's a matter of co-aligning the BH shaft with the arrow shaft.

If he has a stiffness problem with his long shafts already, going up to 125's will make it worse.

deercreek I had the same problem with arrow flight on my PSE DNA. I went from 5575s to 7595s and my shafts are only 28" but I am shooting 60#. I also switched from 2" Blazers to 4" NAP QuikSpin vanes.
Not familiar with the Hoyt Charger I believe my problem was slight fletching contact with the higher profile Blazers.
I think that Nomercy is spot on with his analysis.

Still having problems getting broad heads to fly. Took bow back to the Pro Shop where I bought it. Had everything checked and did a minor adjustment on drop away rest. Shot some 3 inch vanes and still had poor flight. Also tuned broad heads as suggested. Next went to 4 inch vains. Still poor flight. Now vanes appear to be hitting arrow rest as launcher felt is scuffed a bit. Next I'm going to try 4 inch feathers. Then???

4 inch feathers with a full helical did the trick. My broadheads are grouping nicely. Shooting feathers again is going to take some getting use to.

I would Yoke Tune, Paper Tune at 3 and 9 feet, and then French Modified Tune...if it continues after this broadhead tune.There are some helpful vids on youtube of these types of tuning. Good luck!!!

i dont understand why people want to shoot out so far with a bow...

I like to practice out to 65 yards. Then when I move up to 30 yards I am much more accurate. For me it improves my accuracy a great deal. I dont shoot at game at 65 yards.

Same here. I practice out to 70 yards. At these further distances any errors in your shooting form/technique will be magnified. And if you can keep 5-6 arrows in a 5" or tighter group at 70 yards - at 20 and 30 yards you will be packing your arrows on top of each other.

What's your FOC?

What's your velocity leaving the bow (Not your bow's IBO speed)?

Total arrow weight?

When you say your arrows are diving past a certain range, are they actually diving, or are they becoming unstable? Those are two very different symptoms.

In general, I very rarely have found that a shop can tune my bow better than I can, and I wouldn't consider myself anything special in terms of bow-tech-ing. It's been years since I've seen a shop check cam/idler alignment, and most shops around here don't even know what tiller tuning means. A lot of folks assume that if they take it to a shop, it comes out perfectly tuned. My experience is the opposite - if I have a shop install a new set of strings, I generally know I have to fix the errors that they built into the bow.

I've also found, similarly, that most shops will recommend exactly what the spine charts recommend, which is almost ALWAYS wrong for 300fps+ bows. "You should be fine" is what I normally hear. Keeping in mind, that if you buy 400's, have a problem with spine flex, now you come back and buy 340's, they garner twice the profit... Not saying it's intentional, it very well could be inexperience or ignorance, but that has been a common complaint I have helped guys fix over the last few years since speed-bows have become so readily available and affordable.

what is your arm span. 31.5 inch draw that's pretty long you must be around 6'2" or so. you need to tune your broad heads first. go on youtube and look up how to broad head tune click on the video by Kenny parsons (bow tuning tips) excellent video and he goes into detail about how to tune. he also has an entire library of fun videos on how to do almost anything bow related

been a while since I threw in my .02
 

sounds like to me you have too weak spined arrows for your draw length/weight paper tuning will tell the tale
when you went from vanes to feathers gave me that idea you would probably get the results you were looking for with a lighter grain broadhead using the blazer vanes.
but that is just a theory since I cant examine the bow and arrows.