need some help with arrow flight
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 90
need some help with arrow flight
I have a new Hoyt Charger that was set up and tuned by a Pro Shop. I am shooting 56 lbs at a 31.5 draw length. I have a drop away rest and shoot a caliper style release. My arrows are Gold Tip Hunters 55/75/400 with 2 inch blazers with a semi helical. My field points fly true out to 65 yards with no visable flight problems. When I shoot my 100 grain 3 blade Wasp boss broadheads the seem to fly fine out to 35 yards, however at 45-55-65 yards there is a bit of erratic arrow flight causing my POI to be inconsistent. I intend to end up shooting around 60 to 65 lbs by hunting season. I dont want to increase poundage now as I fear it will make my problem worse. What steps can I take to correct this arrow flight problem? Thanks for any help!
Last edited by deercreekhunter; 05-26-2014 at 05:56 PM.
#2
Have you tuned your broadheads? Especially since you're shooting helical vanes, balancing your broadheads is quite important if you expect your Bh's to fly to the same POI as your FP's.
Did you do any tweaking to your rest to ensure perfect POI matching for your Bh's and FP's?
What type of accuracy (precision rather) are you talking about with your FP's? With your BH's? At what ranges, of course...
If you increase your poundage and you have a fletching stabilization problem, then having the increased tail drag on your arrow will help. Drag varies with the square of velocity, i.e. double your speed, quadruple your drag. Fd = f(v^2).
What is your FOC for your arrows? Adding 1.5-2" of overall shaft length can sometimes push an arrow over the tipping point for stable flight.
Watch your back as you increase poundage up to 65lbs with your 5575's before hunting season. With a fairly fast bow like the Charger (325fps IBO), you may run into arrow stiffness issues and start getting some whip that you can't tune out. For bows over 300fps, I almost always go one shaft stiffness higher than what the charts read. The consequence of shooting too stiff of arrow is almost nothing. The consequence of shooting a borderline, or too limp of arrow is poor flight, wasted energy, degraded accuracy, and decreased functional range (read: killing range). Unless you're shooting a super short arrow, the 5575's will likely be too limp for your bow - by too short, I mean somewhere in the 26" range. Short arrows, or rather short draw length shooters have the advantage that a short arrow has a higher relative stiffness, and their short draws sacrifice a lot of speed/energy, so shorter shooters can shoot a 'softer spine' for the same poundage compared to a longer draw shooter, but if you're shooting 65yrds and having issues at 56#, I'm prone to assume you are NOT shooting a super short draw.
Did you do any tweaking to your rest to ensure perfect POI matching for your Bh's and FP's?
What type of accuracy (precision rather) are you talking about with your FP's? With your BH's? At what ranges, of course...
If you increase your poundage and you have a fletching stabilization problem, then having the increased tail drag on your arrow will help. Drag varies with the square of velocity, i.e. double your speed, quadruple your drag. Fd = f(v^2).
What is your FOC for your arrows? Adding 1.5-2" of overall shaft length can sometimes push an arrow over the tipping point for stable flight.
Watch your back as you increase poundage up to 65lbs with your 5575's before hunting season. With a fairly fast bow like the Charger (325fps IBO), you may run into arrow stiffness issues and start getting some whip that you can't tune out. For bows over 300fps, I almost always go one shaft stiffness higher than what the charts read. The consequence of shooting too stiff of arrow is almost nothing. The consequence of shooting a borderline, or too limp of arrow is poor flight, wasted energy, degraded accuracy, and decreased functional range (read: killing range). Unless you're shooting a super short arrow, the 5575's will likely be too limp for your bow - by too short, I mean somewhere in the 26" range. Short arrows, or rather short draw length shooters have the advantage that a short arrow has a higher relative stiffness, and their short draws sacrifice a lot of speed/energy, so shorter shooters can shoot a 'softer spine' for the same poundage compared to a longer draw shooter, but if you're shooting 65yrds and having issues at 56#, I'm prone to assume you are NOT shooting a super short draw.
#3
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 90
Thank you for the help. My arrows ar 30 inches. Tonight I tried some higher profile type blazers. The arrow flight seemed a bit better but I still can notice a slight diving of the arrow at 55 and 65 yards. You mentioned tuning my broadheads to my bow.please school me on this. I have never had problems with arrow flight untill I switched to 2 inch blazers.
#5
Here's a link to Gold Tip's photonarrative for broadhead tuning. Basically, it's a matter of co-aligning the BH shaft with the arrow shaft.
#6
#7
deercreek I had the same problem with arrow flight on my PSE DNA. I went from 5575s to 7595s and my shafts are only 28" but I am shooting 60#. I also switched from 2" Blazers to 4" NAP QuikSpin vanes.
Not familiar with the Hoyt Charger I believe my problem was slight fletching contact with the higher profile Blazers.
I think that Nomercy is spot on with his analysis.
Not familiar with the Hoyt Charger I believe my problem was slight fletching contact with the higher profile Blazers.
I think that Nomercy is spot on with his analysis.
#8
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 90
Still having problems getting broad heads to fly. Took bow back to the Pro Shop where I bought it. Had everything checked and did a minor adjustment on drop away rest. Shot some 3 inch vanes and still had poor flight. Also tuned broad heads as suggested. Next went to 4 inch vains. Still poor flight. Now vanes appear to be hitting arrow rest as launcher felt is scuffed a bit. Next I'm going to try 4 inch feathers. Then???