Need Help w/ Arrow Flight
#1
Spike
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 1
Need Help w/ Arrow Flight
Specs:
Diamond Outlaw 2011
30.5" Draw length
65# Draw wieght
Hostage arrow rest
Arrows
Carbon Fury 4560 (100gr per inch)
28.25" Length
NAP Twister Quick FLetch
Nockturnal nocks
So, when I shoot stock vaned arrow with 100gr FT I am dead on 40yds and in.
The problem is when I shoot practice BH (Grimreaper 3 blade mechanical) and NAP Twister vanes. My arrow is consistently 3" left and 5-6" high. 2 blade practice Rage BH's are dead on with the NAP twister, but not the grim reaper. Not sure what is going on.
Another issue is the looping motion the arrow makes which is easier to see when I shoot the lighted nocks. Not sure what to do about that.
Can you guys help? I would greatly appreciate any advice,
Thanks
Diamond Outlaw 2011
30.5" Draw length
65# Draw wieght
Hostage arrow rest
Arrows
Carbon Fury 4560 (100gr per inch)
28.25" Length
NAP Twister Quick FLetch
Nockturnal nocks
So, when I shoot stock vaned arrow with 100gr FT I am dead on 40yds and in.
The problem is when I shoot practice BH (Grimreaper 3 blade mechanical) and NAP Twister vanes. My arrow is consistently 3" left and 5-6" high. 2 blade practice Rage BH's are dead on with the NAP twister, but not the grim reaper. Not sure what is going on.
Another issue is the looping motion the arrow makes which is easier to see when I shoot the lighted nocks. Not sure what to do about that.
Can you guys help? I would greatly appreciate any advice,
Thanks
Last edited by cod393; 08-29-2012 at 06:22 PM.
#2
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,445
Tune your bow. Fixed blade heads won't fly well if your bow is out of tune.
If your arrows are the correct spine (I didn't check)....and assuming your arrows are not contacting your rest......based on the info you have provided, I'd move the rest to the right very slightly, like 1/16" or less. Assuming your rest is set so your arrow is centered on the berger hole, I'd also move the nocking point up very slightly. Then shoot again and see what's up. The field points and the fixed heads should be moving toward the same impact point. Don't worry about hitting your point of aim at this point. Keep adjusting as described until the FPs and the BHs are hitting the same point, then adjust the sight.
Look into threads on this forum for walk-back tuning as well.
If your arrows are the correct spine (I didn't check)....and assuming your arrows are not contacting your rest......based on the info you have provided, I'd move the rest to the right very slightly, like 1/16" or less. Assuming your rest is set so your arrow is centered on the berger hole, I'd also move the nocking point up very slightly. Then shoot again and see what's up. The field points and the fixed heads should be moving toward the same impact point. Don't worry about hitting your point of aim at this point. Keep adjusting as described until the FPs and the BHs are hitting the same point, then adjust the sight.
Look into threads on this forum for walk-back tuning as well.
#3
At 30.5" a 4560 arrow is underspined. You should either move up to a 340 spine or lower the draw weight of the bow to accomodate the present arrows.
That being said, you've gotten some good advice above. Anyway you cut it your setup doesn't need to be tuned well to shoot field points or even mechanical heads. When you put blades on the front and the arrow isn't leaving the bow straight then those blades are going to catch air and plane off course.
You have to start with properly spined arrows and then tune the setup after that. Google Easton's Tuning Guide and you'll find all sorts of tuning info which should help you.
That being said, you've gotten some good advice above. Anyway you cut it your setup doesn't need to be tuned well to shoot field points or even mechanical heads. When you put blades on the front and the arrow isn't leaving the bow straight then those blades are going to catch air and plane off course.
You have to start with properly spined arrows and then tune the setup after that. Google Easton's Tuning Guide and you'll find all sorts of tuning info which should help you.
#4
Exactly what the other two posts stated. Without the properly spined arrows you will never get your bow shooting as well as it should.
That being said, the least expensive solution to your problem is to reduce the poundage to 60# or less. Then you can tune your bow.
That being said, the least expensive solution to your problem is to reduce the poundage to 60# or less. Then you can tune your bow.
#5
Spike
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 22
tune
i shoot thunderheads and they fly great in a tuned bow. true u can shoot exp heads and target tips untuned but if the arrow hits the animal sideways u get no penatration. if u cant papertune do a walk back tune. use your first pin zeroed at 10 and shoot the same pin walking back at 5 yd interales. if the arrow hits left or right move rest accordingly. the same for noch point if arrow hits higher as u go back lower rest and viseversa. if i do my part tne thunderheads will hit with tts as far as i shoot but they are a little flatter than the target tips. i have some heads that have taken 10 deer, new blades and file tip sometimes and ready. i do true my heads with a arrow straightner for a perfect spin. good luck