RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

Jason, yep. 33" . Even aluminum nowadays, all I can do is glue an insert in a full length shaft and fletch it up, and there' s my arrow. Spine does get a little picky with long arrows, but you just have to go with the flow and shoot the logs. If we were both shooting a 65 pound single cam bow, you at 27" arrow and me at 33" , you could shoot a 2213. I' d have to go something like a 2317. I had a 90 pound compound in the 80' s that I had to shoot a 4" overdraw with 29" 2419' s to get the right arrow. Wasn' t incredibly speedy but when that arrow hit what I was shooting at... WHAM! :) The club advised me that bow wasn' t welcome there any more when I broke the legs off a brand new McKenzie deer on a solid 10 ring hit.

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RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

Sorry, but I really don' t know what you point is.

RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

Well, maybe he' ll come back and clear up the mystery.

RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

I am " old school" too, like Arthur, but..........I changed to carbon 4 years ago. I still use alum for indoor 20 yd. spot targets, but outside the carbon rules. Took me years to change over but glad I did. When I went to carbon I was using fixed heads, and you couldn' t pry them away from me, flew good out of carbon too, but.... seeing the damage, and bloodtrails the mechs did, and my eyes ain' t gettin younger, I switched to mechs with carbon shafts, and the pass-thrus are still there, plus I have a bigger blood trail to follow. After 38 years of lugging a bow around, I switched to the " new way" and glad I did.

RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

Mechanicals work. I won' t say they don' t. I do say they require extra attention before each hunt to make darn sure they work. Do not just take the things out of the package, screw ' em in and go hunting or you' re begging for trouble.

As for me, one of my long standing night before opening day rituals is to get all my gear laid out and ready, then uncork a bottle of wine, kick back and hone my Magnus heads to a razor edge. I' d be totally jinxed and wouldn' t be able to hunt if I didn' t do that! :)

RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

THE trick to good fixed blade flight with carbons is getting the arrows cut PERFECTLY square. The average Joe Blow taking 3 seconds per arrow on the cut off wheel ain' t gonna get it right THAT often. I also do NOT trust who ever cuts the arrows at the factory. G5 has a neat little device that lets you square your arrows after Mr. Blow attacks your arrows.
I personally shoot 29" arrows and will only accept my tuning if I can get Muzzy 3 blades to hit the same group as I can with field points out to 40 yards (NORMALLY will only shoot 30 yards). And by " the same group" I mean I have to shoot the broadhead first so I don' t wreck the other arrows. Basically an " OK" group for me is that 5 arrows fit inside your finger and thumb (when you make an " OK" sign) at 40 yards.
Not GREAT...but OK.

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RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

Navy, either it is your writting style that I am having a hard time understanding, or I am having some major brain farts. Cause I really don' t see what you are getting at. Do you mean me personally? Or people in general, cause it sounds like you are addressing me. If that is the case, then let me explain a few things. I can accept everything that you have mentioned. However, whether I choose to use them or not is up to me. I personally use a compound bow, easton xx78 aluminums, 135 grain 5 blade innerloc fixed broadhead (an additional 50 grain weight), and a release on my compound, on my recurve and longbow, I shoot fingers, use xx75 aluminum arrows, 145 grain two bladed magnus, no sight. (those are for my hunting setups)

Do you mean compound bows, releases, carbon arrows??? If you mean mechanicals broadheads, I already talked about my bad experiences with them. I actually did try them and didn' t like them as much as fixed blades. They killed two deer for me, so I guess that they worked. But, I don' t like the cost of them, and can' t afford to practice with them as much as I would want to. They are also not as strong as I would like. That' s personal choice why I don' t use them anymore. But I wouldn' t say to someone not to use them if that is what they like to use.

RE: mechanical or standard broadhead
 

Navy, I was really holding back my true opinion about mechanicals in the interest of not raising a stink, but since you insist....

Bob is a little more kind and lenient toward mechanicals than I am. In my experiments with the things, I' ve come to the conclusion that a few are good but most are junk. A few of the junkers can be cleaned up and fixed up by someone that' s handy with tools and made functional. And, like Bob, I can' t afford to keep throwing good money after bad, especially when we' re talking $6-10 bucks APIECE for the stinkin' things!

By contrast, most fixed blade heads are good, and there are only a few junkers that creep onto the market from time to time. You can go with the incredibly high priced models or you can do just fine with very inexpensive ones. I can buy a whole dozen Magnus or Zwickey glue on heads - and insert adaptors for my aluminum arrows - for what 3 of the cheaper mechanicals cost and they' ve worked perfectly for me ever since I' ve been hunting with a bow. Even with a compound.