paper tuning
#1
Typical Buck
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Godfrey, Il.
Posts: 814
paper tuning
hi everyone, seasons almost here. well i was shooting pretty good groups (for me) but i decided to paper tune the bow. kept getting the nock going in high, so i kept moving the nock lower a little at a time. made no difference. i got it so low that looking at a nocked arrow from the side i could see my arrow going up across the riser. then i started thinking about reading an article about tuning that said finger shooting would kick the arrow to the side a little upon release, while shooting with a release aid would make the arrow kick up a little. is this what i'm seeing? i took everything back to the starting point and still getting good groups. should i just leave it be?
#2
hntr...It could possibly be you are using an improperly spined arrow.
Here is what I do and I get very good results. And I don't use lasers or any of the other 'new' tuning gear. I initially set my nock set so my arrow is dead square with the string. Then I nock an arrow and align the tip of the arrow, the string and the center of the limbs.
Now I may shoot thru paper the get the smallest hole I can. But most of the time I am pretty close.
I will go shoot the bow at 10 yds to set my 20 yd pin. Then move back to 20 yds and sight in. Now if you have the distance, using ur 20 yd pin, shoot arrows at 10, 20, 30 and 40 yds. Ifeach of these shots felt good to you than the arrows should be in a fairly straight vertical line.
Next, get your broadheads out and tip 2 with BHs and 2 with FTs. Shoot them at 20 yds - 1 BH and 1 FT at each target dot (Tip: shoot the BHs first so you don't damage the vanes on your FT arrows.).
Now adjust your rest in small increments (about 1/32") chasing the FTs with your BHs. (example: if your BHs shoot left of your FTs, move your rest to the right.)
And only do one adjustment at a time. If your BHs hit high left, adjust the rest to the right first until you get the arrows vertical. The begin to adjust the rest up or down as needed.
Note: once you get both hitting the same POI, move back to 30 or 40 yds and shoot them again to super fine tune your bow.
Sounds complicated but this whole process should only take less than an hour. And you will be completely satisfied and confident. And the deer will be scared to death!
Read the first 2 posts in this forum. They are very helpful.
Here is what I do and I get very good results. And I don't use lasers or any of the other 'new' tuning gear. I initially set my nock set so my arrow is dead square with the string. Then I nock an arrow and align the tip of the arrow, the string and the center of the limbs.
Now I may shoot thru paper the get the smallest hole I can. But most of the time I am pretty close.
I will go shoot the bow at 10 yds to set my 20 yd pin. Then move back to 20 yds and sight in. Now if you have the distance, using ur 20 yd pin, shoot arrows at 10, 20, 30 and 40 yds. Ifeach of these shots felt good to you than the arrows should be in a fairly straight vertical line.
Next, get your broadheads out and tip 2 with BHs and 2 with FTs. Shoot them at 20 yds - 1 BH and 1 FT at each target dot (Tip: shoot the BHs first so you don't damage the vanes on your FT arrows.).
Now adjust your rest in small increments (about 1/32") chasing the FTs with your BHs. (example: if your BHs shoot left of your FTs, move your rest to the right.)
And only do one adjustment at a time. If your BHs hit high left, adjust the rest to the right first until you get the arrows vertical. The begin to adjust the rest up or down as needed.
Note: once you get both hitting the same POI, move back to 30 or 40 yds and shoot them again to super fine tune your bow.
Sounds complicated but this whole process should only take less than an hour. And you will be completely satisfied and confident. And the deer will be scared to death!
Read the first 2 posts in this forum. They are very helpful.
Last edited by bronko22000; 08-14-2011 at 08:08 AM.
#3
Check out Easton's web page on "bare shaft tuning." Paper tuning is not accurate. If you MUST paper tune and you are right handed fingers shooter, your tear should be approximately 1/4" high left. I suggest bare shaft tuning with the instructions provided by the Easton tech people. This enables you to FINE tune for perfect flight using either your field tips or broadheads without adjustment.
Last edited by Sniper151; 08-30-2011 at 05:40 PM. Reason: addition