Update: Tuning (round #3)....Finally got it !!
 

Zebra string stretch.......even on the new ' 03' s !! [:@] Heard a popping noise and figured out my string was jumping off it' s roller.

My LX was originally set up and shooting good with the arrow level and even with the berger button hole.

Had to get the string twisted this week and picked my bow back up yesterday. My bow was not noticably out of time and only required a couple of twists. Went to shoot after getting it back and was hitting high (12 " ). Lowered my rest and grouping good at 20 yrds (1" ) and bullet holes through the paper. But now my arrow is going downhill, crossing at the bottom of the berger button hole.

String loop is in same location on serving(hasn' t slipped). Peep appears to be in same location and has been tied in since new. My ata is correct , at 35 3/4" and my brace height is 6.5" ,but hasn' t been exactly 6 5/8 since I put the Leosch grip on. Checked tiller and top is 9" and bottom is 9 1/8"

What do ya' ll think ?

RE: Tuning (round #2)
 

If they twisted your string and didn' t reposition the nock, etc. compared to where they were before, could it be that the nock didn' t move in relation to a spot on your string, but it could now be off in relation to your rest?

Just a thought.

RE: Tuning (round #2)
 

I guess that' s what I' m thinking too.

But should I lower my nocking point and start over? It' s already worn down my serving where it is now.

Or since it paper tunes good........should I keep shooting groups and see how good they get at 40,50,60 yrds ? My other two Mathews shot best a little nock high.

All this tuning ........gives me a headache sometimes ! And I still don' t know if I' m doing it right !! [:' (]:D

RE: Tuning (round #2)
 

Whenever I have a change like that, I tend to take stuff off and start completely from scratch. Hasn' t let me down yet...

RE: Update: Tuning (round #2)
 

Well , I went back and spent 3 hours at the shop yesterday.

Re-positioned the nock. Set the timing exact . Check all measurements. Center shot was adjusted.
Seems to be shooting pretty good and my arrow is back even with the berger button hole.
I had to move my sight back to the right to hit correctly.

I know how a lot of you have said that paper tuning is just a starting point. But how can I get a good tear now and with string creep and my center shot off still have gotten a good paper tear ???Am I doing something wrong......has anyone else ever had this happen ?

RE: Update: Tuning (round #2)
 

I don' t see anything wrong with paper tuning. I think it' s far more than a starting point. If you are consistently getting good tears, then your arrow is coming out of your bow in near perfect flight(it' s impossible for anything to be perfect) and now all you have to do is adjust your sights to sight it in. Everyones always talking about this group tuning method that when finished doesn' t leave your bow shooting bullets through paper. If your not getting bullets through paper then your arrow is not coming out of your bow in a near perfect flight...a nock high, left, or right tear indicates that when shooting with fixed broadheads, there will be another variable in the flight of the arrow at about 6 feet out of the bow...and that will be the windplaning on the blades of the broadhead. I really don' t believe you can get good, harmonious arrow flight if you are not getting bullet holes while paper tuning. It' s theoretically impossible, the laws of physics does not allow it. Sure there are some who can still get good groups by group tuning, but not the best they can get in my opinion.

Sorry guys, had to stir the pot...

RE: Update: Tuning (round #2)
 

It' s entirely possible to get good paper tears and have a totally crappy tune on the bow. It' s happened to me. I was shooting great holes at 5 yards, 7 yards and 10 yards but my centershot was way off. A shop set up a bow for me shooting great holes, but my nockset was nearly an inch below square.

Paper tuning is NOT the last word. It' s a tool, and an unreliable tool at that.

RE: Update: Tuning (round #2)
 

Thanks Authur P . !!
I am trying to figure out this fine tuning and feel like I am getting further away....than closer , to figuring it out .[8D]
This is the part of bowhunting that I think is going to drive me crazy.

RE: Update: Tuning (round #2)
 

Well, I guess I shoulda said paper tuning CAN be an unreliable tool. I know some guys swear by it and get good results but it can also leave you tearing your hair out.

I' ve been at this long enough to eyeball my centershot pretty close. Set my tiller so that the bow stays level when I draw, not pulling up or down. Set my nock point a bit over square. Then I start shooting groups. I get good at 20 yards then move to 30 and compare point of impact. If my centershot is off, the arrows will be off to one side at 30. I' ll move whichever way I need to split the difference, then sight back in at 20. Then I' ll move to 40 and repeat. I' ll do that all the way out to 60 yards. At 60 yards, I' ve got plenty of time to see the arrow in flight. If I' ve got any porpoising, I can either move the nockset a bit OR adjust my tiller a bit to straighten up the arrow flight.

When I' m satisfied with my centershot and arrow flight, then I shoot broadheads to see how they fly. I' m not one of those that believes broadheads MUST impact right with my field points. As long as they group closely, all the way out to 60 yards, then I' m satisfied. But, if I see a tendency for my groups to drift off to one side further and further at the longer distances, I will adjust centershot a tad more.

I' ve tuned a compound that way for more than 20 years, with fingers and release. Sometimes it yields a bullethole in paper, but most often it doesn' t.

But the whole process begins with the arrows. If your arrows are underspined, nothing will work. Overspined isn' t as critical, but you will never get the accuracy you want. If your arrows aren' t straight, each one will come off the rest slightly differently and that will make tuning a nightmare. Having great arrows is really far more important than having a great bow, super-gee-whiz arrow rests, gold plated sights or million dollar releases. Too many people have lost sight of that rule and hang all kinds of expensive doodads on their megabucks bow, but cheap out on arrows.

RE: Update: Tuning (round #2)
 

Arthur.......thanks again for the advice !!

I tried your method this weekend and it is working good.
I was dead on at 20 and 30. 40 was off a little.......made an adjustment and was dead on and getting 1.75" groups. Went back to 20 and barely re-sighted.
Went to 50 and got 2" groups !
Went to 60 and was tired......getting a 6-7" group, level but right to left spread out.
I' ll have to work on that later ! I am obsessive........never satisfied........ever!! ;)

But my confidence is back!! :D

BTW- Have not shot through the paper yet ! [:-]