bigbulls

I am trying to get my montec 100 grain broadheads to tune but something is going on that' s got me confused.

I am shooting from 25 yards and I wil shoot my arrows, 4 at a time, and three will fly to the spot just like they are suppose to do and I' ll get one flyer. I unscrew the heads from the back of the target and put them back on the same arrows and the next round they will be all over the place. Some almost missing te entire target. I' ll shoot again and two will fly true and two will be flyers. What the heck is ging on?! There s no consistancy at all. Any one else ever had this happen to them?

I have tuned the bow and it shoots perfect bullet holes, it' s tuned, arrows are of correct spine, etc...etc... I have been making the small adjustments normally associated with tuning broadheads but this has got me confused.

I need help, and not mentally. Though I might need a psychiatrist if I can' t get these things to fly true every shot.[:@][]

BuckAlley

Why are you unscrewing them from the target, then screwing them back on. I' m guessing your arrows are penetrating through the target, and don' t want or can' t pull them back through. Next time shoot 4 arrows correctly don' t unscrew the heads. Pull out, and try shooting them again, and see what happens![:-] But sounds more to me like your doing something wrong in your form, or something on bow isn' t working quit right everytime. I was having the same sorta problem just last week with regular field points. Kept thinking it was me, then discovered my release aid was malfunctioning, and not releasing the same everytime. I fixed the release, and back to shooting bullet holes.

elknut1

Now you know why I asked you how are they flying. I had the same problem with rothar snuffers which are a similar broadhead. Those cotten picking things drove me nuts, I tried everything, I finally lost all confidence in them even though I' d get one to fly good every now and then. I' ve been shooting Muzzys ever since.
Muzzys fly great, and what a confidence builder they are. We' ve never lost an elk with Muzzys. I' m not telling you to give up on them, but I' ll be honest, I did.
Good Luck Big Bulls. elknut1

bigbulls

Yeah, I don' t want to give up on them yet. At ten bucks a pop they cost too dang much. My form hasen' t changed at all, the heads spin perfect, my realease is working fine.

I' ll just keep shooting until they either fly good or I' ll change them right before my wife sends me to the loony farm.[]

dick_cress

I agree with Buck Alley . . . it is probably a form problem.

After I' ve shot a while I start getting tired . . . after a while my form suffers. When I get fliers to the righe it is generally because I have dropped my bow arm. Low, high and left fliers are usually a failure to exercise a complete follow through.

I have a suggestion: shoot with a wrist sling, do not grab the bow-this adds torque' instead let the bow rest in the web between the thumb and first finger, hold your bow arm up until you hear the arrow hit the target. Be sure to push the bow away from you and maintain your pull on the string [akaush and pull through every shot]. See if this helps.

Stickemup

You may be right on the border for spine. Are you arrows plenty stiff enough? I had this happen to me last year. I could shoot bullet holes with a bare shaft and fletched arrows and field points would stack all over each other. Broadheads were very inconsistent. I put those same arrows and heads on my older, slightly slower bow and the broadheads would drill right with the field points. The broadheads were pushing the shafts past their spine limit on the newer, shorter, faster bow.

If you are not bottomed out, you might try turning your poundage down or try a stiffer shaft just to see if that will help.

Good luck figuring it out. Stuff like that can make you pull your hair out sometimes. Let us know what it is when you figure it out. Sometimes it' s the last thing you will think of causing the problem.

ijimmy

Check your spine and for fletching contact , nock fit exc . I forgot to mention you should be useing some good stearing in the back , 3-5" feathers or vanes with an offset or 4-4" if you are useing 3-4" straight fletched vanes you may not have enough stearing in the back of the arrow to make it " forgiveing"

elknut1

Why should a man have to change his shooting style to fit a broadhead?
That doesn' t make sense. Who wants to go through such things as grip the bow, don' t grip the bow, grip it lighter, bend your elbow, bend it more, sounds like you' re moving rabbit ears on your TV around to get better reception.
I think it' s a simple fact that those type of broadheads don' t fly well out of bows that shoot 220fps or faster. They' re great for traditional shooters and the like. But in a faster bow every little thing like wind planing is magnified, that' s been my experience with those type of blades. On the other hand Bigbulls, go grab one muzzy, one thunderhead, and one rocky mountain broadhead, 100 or 125 it doesn' t matter, and with your bow tuned like you say it is, I' ll bet they ALL fly great, why is that, because they' re designed for todays faster bows. And you won' t have to change your form, they' ll be comftorable to fit your shooting style.
So it sounds to me if you' re willing to change your shooting style dramaticaly, you may get them to work or maybe not. If you don' t like them, then you have to readjust back to your original style. Shooting broadheads should not be that complicated and frustrating. Once again Good Luck.


P.S. Don' t get mad and wrap your bow around a tree. elknut1

Antler Eater

It would be hard to get to the bottom of the problem without being there and actually participating in your dilemma. I would definitely check all of the traditional check points in tuning and form.

As you know something as simple as not hitting the same anchor point everytime can throw a wrench in flight consistency. Often times when my accuracy starts to detriorate I find myself leaning my head over to line up my sight picture like I do when I shoot a rifle rather than keeping my head straight and bringing the string straight back to my face, which is easier to duplicate shot after shot.

As far as the arrows go, if they spin true, (assuming you shoot at least a four inch fletch) I would recheck my arrow spine. Sometimes you have to move up in spine regardless of what the chart says albeit on carbons there is a ceiling of sorts in what is offered.

I have a hard time believeing that the problem is with the head itself. I shoot the 125 grain head out of more than one bow, with speeds ranging from 260-275 on the end of carbon arrows (four inch right helical fletch) and they fly great.

Good luck.

Rangeball

What kind of rest are you using? Single or twin cam bow?

As antlereater said, a change in anchor can cause this, especially if you are using a containment rest like the whisker biscuit.

My brother-in-law learned this the hard way last fall. Shooting a twin cam (read mushy wall) with a whisker biscuit, he overdrew and flung an arrow WAY of course and blew an opportunity on a huge 10 point...

Just grasping at straws here...