dixiedawg80

Hello all,

Hope everyone is doing well. I need some help. I am shooting 27" Easton XX78's 2117 with 2" NAP Twister Vanes with right helical. My draw is 27 inches and I am pulling 62 pounds. I have been shooting darts with field points out to 35 yards. Tonight I pulled out the broadheads, Muzzy MX-4's, 100 grain and put the practice blades on them. I have never seen the arrows curve so hard to the left. I missed the target on my first shot! As I continued to shoot my arrows would make big loops on the way to the target and wouldn't group at all. It's almost like my arrows were'nt being steered at all! I am really stressing as opening day here in NC is only a few weeks away! What are you're suggestions? Thanks so much in advance, I really appreciate you all!

DD80

dixiedawg80

Almost forgot, I paper-tuned the bow with field points and have it dead on that way.

Thanks again in advance!
DD80

bronko22000

Dixie - breakout the field points again and lets start over. You already did the paper tuning and that will get you close. First thing is to check for fletching contact. That is usually the first problem. Next, get on an internet search like google or bing and search for Easton's Tuning Guide. Now do some walk back tuning and adjust you rest or nock set as necessary. The paper tuning is a rough tune, then the walk back is a fine tune. Once you get your arrows shooting in a vertical line you are getting close. Now for the BHs. This is the super fine tuning. Best bet is to use one or two brand new ones, same weight as the FTs. Assuming you have your bow sighted in with FTs at 20 yds, shoot a BH then a FT. They should hit the same POI if your form and release were good. If they hit different POI, again adjust your rest/nock set. (Small increments - 1/32")
You should be OK by the time the season rolls around.

Big10Hunter

First off I think the set up you are trying to shoot is inherently inaccurate. Your shooting a short arrow with a relatively high drag fixed blade broadhead. Your arrows probably shoot well with the field point, but the four blade broadhead has a lot more drag than the flield points. Now in your post you really solved your own problem when you say: "It's almost like my arrows were'nt being steered at all!" That's because you have these dinky 2" vanes that are not suitable for steering a fixed four blade broadhead on a short shaft. You should be shooting 4" vanes, or perhaps consider trying an expandable broadhead. If I were you I would try a 4" vane and see how that works, I would try sticking with the muzzies they're good. just my 2 cents

Howler

Did you spin test the arrows with the broadheads on?

Short vanes will stabilize an arrow with fixed balde broadheads just fine, when everything is in tune. BUT, if they don't then simply putting mech. heads on isn't the way to fix the problem. Only puts a bandaid over the problem.

bronko22000

Agree Howler, Big10 is giving some bad advice. My arrows are only an inch longer than dixie's and I shoot fixed BHs with those same 2" vanes and have absolutely no problems all the way out to 60 yds.

dixiedawg80

Thank you all very much, I do intend to follow eastons tuning guide by the letter tommorrow, I'll let you know how it goes. One quick question, am I right for having right helical on my fletches or do I simply need some offset?

Thanks again guys!
DD80

3Children

Totally agree with Bronko!! I shoot a 4 blade Slick Trick with a 27" arrow that has 2" vanes and guess what, shoots great!!! I hope you have an adjustable rest, it is the easiest to tune with one. First follow the field tip with broadheads. EX: shoot a ft, then a bh, if the bh hit to the left of the ft more the rest to the right oh so slightly, a 1/32" and repeat. Getting old so I right things down, and if the group gets larger, I can see what I did wrong. If you do happen to shoot low and on the side, make either the adjustment up/down or left/right, not both at the same time. Fix only one at a time. For those that shoot mechanicals should tune the same way, unfortunely we have those bh companies telling hunters "just screw one on and go, no tuning". Good luck and you can pm if you need more help.

bronko22000

I believe the Twister vanes do not require a strong helical. You may want to check the NAP site on that. Maybe only 1-3 degrees. If you look at them, one side is smooth and the other is ridged. This aids in achieving rotation.

dixiedawg80

Just got back from following the Easton Tuning Guide to the letter, man that's food stuff! I refletched with not so much helical and had to adjust my rest a little bit, but I am now shooting dead on! Thanks so much for all the help! Once again, yall are the best!

Thanks again,
DD80