Not at all really. If you are having fletching contact on the bottom of your hen vanes (first off you should be able to see the plastic streaking on your forks and the black rub on your vanes) then you have your arrow doing a big upwards kick right as it comes clear of the bow. Those ST blades, because of their surface area, won't help you any when it comes to getting your arrow stabilized. If your arrow starts out pretty dang stable (as it should with a tuned bow) then its a moot point.

Because the surface area and leading edges of mechs are closer to that of a field point... that is why they tend to act more like field points. Fixed blade heads magnify tuning, form and contact issues... which is part of the reason why its good to broadhead tune and sadly its also part of the reason some folks get frustrated and just screw in mechs and let it ride.

I shoot STs myself, and don't think I'd fool with much else really personally. Don't get too frustrated, its probably something simple really.

thanks guys.

i went back and looked for contact and could not see any, but just to be on the safe side i changed the tall forks on the qad to the small ones and re-adjusted everything. after i was done i was able to put all arrow in the 2" ring at 20 yards. i have not been able to shoot past that, but i think that answers my question and i must have been getting some contact or the qad was bouncing up and hitting the vanes.

You may want to go back and read the 2 posts 'how to set your bow's tiller' and 'don't stop at walk back'. I read these posts and had my one cam Martin Cheetah set up and BH tuned in about 1/2 an hour. Maybe I just got lucky but my fixed blade BHs and field points hit same POI out to 40 yds.
If you think you're doing everything correctly I would suspect fletching contact also. I went through the same thing with a Martin Bengal that I could not get tuned so I know your frustration. I ended up taking that bow back and getting a Firecat.

What that effectively did was to lower your nocking point by 1/8". That is assuming you started with the standard forks and have just installed the TL1s. The forks look shorter, but that is only because the apex of the fork is shallower... meaning your arrow is starting off higher than with the standard fork... it is designed for bows that tend to kick nock low at the shot.... Hoyts usually require the TL1 straight away... but not always.

Glad things are starting to come around for you. Best of luck.

thanks.

got a chance to shoot a lot yesterday and with the small forks i was getting major vane contact (every shot), however i could still get my bh and fp to group out to 30 (that is as far as i can shoot)?? i think i may put back on the taller fork and then decrease my brace height by moving the rest closer to the string so that i can effectively use the large forks and not get any bounce back... either that or i am looking into getting the new code red or the qad with the ld technology.

You want a great rest at a moderate price, check out the NAP Apache drop away. It is easy to set up, and very quiet. Also, it has toolless adjustment and incremental marking for both vertical and horizontal adjustment so you can fine tune it when you start shooting.
I also like the fact that it is a capture type rest and the U-shaped rest will pick up the arrow anywhere within the capture bracket. Which by the way is lined with a rubberized coating so it is quiet when the arrow bumps against it.

It might group OK... but believe me when I tell you that vane contact is NOT OK. You are getting the same amount of vane contact with your FPs and your BHs.... which is why they are grouping the same.

I've never been much of a fan of Rip Cords... definately not what the HDs are.

You have the right idea with moving the rest forward or backwards (that isn't your brace heigth by the way... you'd have to twist/untwist your harnesses/strings for that)... only way I've ever been able to make the Hunter Model's do right other than flat out luck is by moving them forward or back a quarter inch at a time to try and have the thing on the downward bounce as the fletchings pass.

thanks guys for everyones input.

seems i was getting very slight vane contact with the rest (QAD hunter) as i think i was getting a little bounce back affect. i got a ripcord code red (with lock down) and am shooting great and the bh and fp are grouping nicely.

season starts july 10th...can't wait!