bh tunning ? for the pro's
 

so bh tunning has never, ever worked for me regardless of the bh (fixed bh's). during pig season i had to just dial in the bh and not get them to hit with my fp's. well trying to get ride of the rage bh's and move to the slicks i started over and did the following:
put on rest, QAD, and made it so that fork of the rest would hold my arrow at the holes were you screw in the rest on the side of the bow. i ensured the qad was set up correctly with the string attached to the down cable.
drew back the bow to where it felt comfortable and put the tube peep there
put on the sight
measured 3/8 inch above square on the string with the qad at full draw.
tried bare shaft tunning....no avail
did walk back tunning...got it good, then tried to shoot the bh at 20 and it was way off
went straight to bh tunning. at first i was hitting left and low. i adjust the rest and lower my knocking point.
finally get the bh and fp to hit good left to right, but the bh is still hitting low about 6"
continue to slowing move the knocking point and now i have it so i am hitting only about 1" low at 20 and 2" low at 30??
then i look at my knocking point and it is probably 3/8" BELOW square are full draw???? WTF!!!!
i can't figure this crap out, i understand it and make adjustments accordingly but it never pans out!....could it just be my bow or?????
specs just in case you don't remember: parker hunter mag extreme 67#, 100gr slick trick, 30" and 30" carbon express terminator lite 60/75

You're attaching your release directly to the string below the arrows nock aren't you?

i use a d-loop. i connect my release (primos .44 caliper) directly behind the knock.

In that cast I would say that you are getting fletching contact. Get some red lip stick and smear it on the edges of your vanes. If you are getting contact then the lip stick will transfer to the part that they are hitting. I suspect that your rest isn't dropping fast enough either because the rests cable is too short causing it to stay up too long or you need to increase the spring tension inside the rest to get it to drop faster.

Which QAD rest have you got? If it is the cheaper hunter model.... it is probably rebounding and contacting the bottom of your fletchings as they pass. If it is a LD or HD.... then this probably isn't the issue unless something is big time set up bad.

Either way... if your rest is set up even close to properly.... its getting out of the way plenty fast enough.

Check your tiller. Start over you missed something, after setting up hundreds bows and bh tuned a lot of those, something is missing. I will try to post pics of the way I have done it, works.

swamp - it is the cheaper hunter model, but if i had vane contact than shouldn't it be difficult to group fp and rage practice tips well 20-40 consistantly? if not, then i will have to look for the ld version.

3 children- that is a great picture and example, thank you. i do have a question though. in it you show that if the bh hits low you move the REST UP? when i looked online for bh tunning and in easton guide they suggest if the bh hits low to move the D-loop down?? am i doing it wrong and should i be moving the rest and not my d-loop? and i have my tiller setted correctly, but i am not able to check my timming and cam lean as i don't know how to do it without a bow press and by myself with a single cam bow?

Moving your rest up or the loop down both get the same results, making the front of the arrow point up higher. The QAD hunter model you have makes it a little harder to move the rest, but it can be done. Remember after you set your rest the arm at rest should be parallel to the bow shelf. That rest has been known to bounce back and touch fetching. Don't forget to get your loop back to the starting point 1/8"-3/8" from square. The arrow should be right in front of the hole in the riser, (berger hole)

so which is better lowering the d-loop or raising the rest? i went through lowering the d-loop and it lead me to having my knocking point about 1/8-3/8" BELOW the rest at full draw....I am afraid that raising the rest will cause the same thing?

the only thing i have not checked is my timing and cam lean (can't find good literature on how to check it with my one cam bow). Can this be checked by myself without a bow press? if so, how can i go about doing it?

Check with Parker
 

Most one cams do not have straight or level nock travel. Usually there is a best position to have the cam in at brace. There should be a way to check it, and Parker could give you that info. You also might want to read Arthur P's sticky on tiller tuning at the top of the Technical page. When I was shooting single cam bows, I had better results with spring loaded shoot through designs (TM Hunter type) than with a drop away. JME

Not at all really. If you are having fletching contact on the bottom of your hen vanes (first off you should be able to see the plastic streaking on your forks and the black rub on your vanes) then you have your arrow doing a big upwards kick right as it comes clear of the bow. Those ST blades, because of their surface area, won't help you any when it comes to getting your arrow stabilized. If your arrow starts out pretty dang stable (as it should with a tuned bow) then its a moot point.

Because the surface area and leading edges of mechs are closer to that of a field point... that is why they tend to act more like field points. Fixed blade heads magnify tuning, form and contact issues... which is part of the reason why its good to broadhead tune and sadly its also part of the reason some folks get frustrated and just screw in mechs and let it ride.

I shoot STs myself, and don't think I'd fool with much else really personally. Don't get too frustrated, its probably something simple really.

thanks guys.

i went back and looked for contact and could not see any, but just to be on the safe side i changed the tall forks on the qad to the small ones and re-adjusted everything. after i was done i was able to put all arrow in the 2" ring at 20 yards. i have not been able to shoot past that, but i think that answers my question and i must have been getting some contact or the qad was bouncing up and hitting the vanes.

You may want to go back and read the 2 posts 'how to set your bow's tiller' and 'don't stop at walk back'. I read these posts and had my one cam Martin Cheetah set up and BH tuned in about 1/2 an hour. Maybe I just got lucky but my fixed blade BHs and field points hit same POI out to 40 yds.
If you think you're doing everything correctly I would suspect fletching contact also. I went through the same thing with a Martin Bengal that I could not get tuned so I know your frustration. I ended up taking that bow back and getting a Firecat.

What that effectively did was to lower your nocking point by 1/8". That is assuming you started with the standard forks and have just installed the TL1s. The forks look shorter, but that is only because the apex of the fork is shallower... meaning your arrow is starting off higher than with the standard fork... it is designed for bows that tend to kick nock low at the shot.... Hoyts usually require the TL1 straight away... but not always.

Glad things are starting to come around for you. Best of luck.

thanks.

got a chance to shoot a lot yesterday and with the small forks i was getting major vane contact (every shot), however i could still get my bh and fp to group out to 30 (that is as far as i can shoot)?? i think i may put back on the taller fork and then decrease my brace height by moving the rest closer to the string so that i can effectively use the large forks and not get any bounce back... either that or i am looking into getting the new code red or the qad with the ld technology.

You want a great rest at a moderate price, check out the NAP Apache drop away. It is easy to set up, and very quiet. Also, it has toolless adjustment and incremental marking for both vertical and horizontal adjustment so you can fine tune it when you start shooting.
I also like the fact that it is a capture type rest and the U-shaped rest will pick up the arrow anywhere within the capture bracket. Which by the way is lined with a rubberized coating so it is quiet when the arrow bumps against it.

It might group OK... but believe me when I tell you that vane contact is NOT OK. You are getting the same amount of vane contact with your FPs and your BHs.... which is why they are grouping the same.

I've never been much of a fan of Rip Cords... definately not what the HDs are.

You have the right idea with moving the rest forward or backwards (that isn't your brace heigth by the way... you'd have to twist/untwist your harnesses/strings for that)... only way I've ever been able to make the Hunter Model's do right other than flat out luck is by moving them forward or back a quarter inch at a time to try and have the thing on the downward bounce as the fletchings pass.

thanks guys for everyones input.

seems i was getting very slight vane contact with the rest (QAD hunter) as i think i was getting a little bounce back affect. i got a ripcord code red (with lock down) and am shooting great and the bh and fp are grouping nicely.

season starts july 10th...can't wait!