Stabilizer No Use?
#1

Well, after noticing my draw length was an inch long, its fixed. So I was shooting today and still my groups weren't showing. So I took the stabilizer off and sure enough, groups! Also the arrow flew faster and hit harder as well. The stabilizer I have is a LimbSaver S-Coil which is 5 inches and 5 ounces. I want a stabilizer that will work. What do you recommend? I will go up to 60 dollars. I am looking at an Octane 7 inch stabilizer, but it weighs five ounces as well so i don't know. Thanks.
#2

i find it hard to believe this but... if its working for you maybe just leave it off. i love the s coil. the newer version is nice too!
#3

[QUOTE=WisconsinBowHunter;362274 So I took the stabilizer off and sure enough, groups! Also the arrow flew faster and hit harder as well.[/QUOTE]
I have a hard time believing that removing the stab had any effect on arrow speed or KE,make your groups tighten up very possible,but anyway if you feel you gained accuracy,speed and KE without one why use one?Unless its to dampen noise! But if your bow is quite without one leave it off!
I have a hard time believing that removing the stab had any effect on arrow speed or KE,make your groups tighten up very possible,but anyway if you feel you gained accuracy,speed and KE without one why use one?Unless its to dampen noise! But if your bow is quite without one leave it off!
#4

What this tells me is that you are 'drive by' shooting.
A stabilizer reduces the amount of leverage your bow hand has on the bow. Layman's terms; those last second little twitches and jumps we get sometimes.... the effect is GREATLY reduced.
Folks who shoot a bow like a shotgun, usually do shoot better without a stabilizer... it allows them to manhandle the bow to the bullseye and punch the trigger right as it gets there. I shot this way for years and I thought I was the poop because I was deadly on game and pretty good at 3D also.
BUT, when I started shooting spots... I hit a brick wall. I'd shoot 275-280 out of 300... and I'd never EVER improve more than a point or two... and sometimes I'd crater down even farther. So after ten years of 'drive by shooting' I started to retrain myself a bit, and I've steadily gotten better in the two and a half years since. I notice that when I'm making good shots... I am really shooting well... and when I get a bad result... I usually know right off it was me punching or pulling a bit.
I've also gone to a 10-11" stabilizer... and trust me... it helps....
I'm not nockin' drive by shooting here... for strictly a hunter... its not a bad way to go... and sometimes you have to force the release when you are hunting... but if you are serious about improving your shooting (which means shooting better on the hunt too of course), then you need to quit that drive by mess.
I am a big fan of doinker stabs... sadly they aren't making the chubby hunters anymore in any length. A 6" Chubby hunter is what I've used for the past two years and once they get production rolling again, I'll have a 11.5" field stab that I think I'll really like.
A stabilizer reduces the amount of leverage your bow hand has on the bow. Layman's terms; those last second little twitches and jumps we get sometimes.... the effect is GREATLY reduced.
Folks who shoot a bow like a shotgun, usually do shoot better without a stabilizer... it allows them to manhandle the bow to the bullseye and punch the trigger right as it gets there. I shot this way for years and I thought I was the poop because I was deadly on game and pretty good at 3D also.
BUT, when I started shooting spots... I hit a brick wall. I'd shoot 275-280 out of 300... and I'd never EVER improve more than a point or two... and sometimes I'd crater down even farther. So after ten years of 'drive by shooting' I started to retrain myself a bit, and I've steadily gotten better in the two and a half years since. I notice that when I'm making good shots... I am really shooting well... and when I get a bad result... I usually know right off it was me punching or pulling a bit.
I've also gone to a 10-11" stabilizer... and trust me... it helps....
I'm not nockin' drive by shooting here... for strictly a hunter... its not a bad way to go... and sometimes you have to force the release when you are hunting... but if you are serious about improving your shooting (which means shooting better on the hunt too of course), then you need to quit that drive by mess.
I am a big fan of doinker stabs... sadly they aren't making the chubby hunters anymore in any length. A 6" Chubby hunter is what I've used for the past two years and once they get production rolling again, I'll have a 11.5" field stab that I think I'll really like.
#5
Nontypical Buck
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Pa.
Posts: 1,062

What this tells me is that you are 'drive by' shooting.
A stabilizer reduces the amount of leverage your bow hand has on the bow. Layman's terms; those last second little twitches and jumps we get sometimes.... the effect is GREATLY reduced.
Folks who shoot a bow like a shotgun, usually do shoot better without a stabilizer... it allows them to manhandle the bow to the bullseye and punch the trigger right as it gets there. I shot this way for years and I thought I was the poop because I was deadly on game and pretty good at 3D also.
BUT, when I started shooting spots... I hit a brick wall. I'd shoot 275-280 out of 300... and I'd never EVER improve more than a point or two... and sometimes I'd crater down even farther. So after ten years of 'drive by shooting' I started to retrain myself a bit, and I've steadily gotten better in the two and a half years since. I notice that when I'm making good shots... I am really shooting well... and when I get a bad result... I usually know right off it was me punching or pulling a bit.
I've also gone to a 10-11" stabilizer... and trust me... it helps....
I'm not nockin' drive by shooting here... for strictly a hunter... its not a bad way to go... and sometimes you have to force the release when you are hunting... but if you are serious about improving your shooting (which means shooting better on the hunt too of course), then you need to quit that drive by mess.
I am a big fan of doinker stabs... sadly they aren't making the chubby hunters anymore in any length. A 6" Chubby hunter is what I've used for the past two years and once they get production rolling again, I'll have a 11.5" field stab that I think I'll really like.
A stabilizer reduces the amount of leverage your bow hand has on the bow. Layman's terms; those last second little twitches and jumps we get sometimes.... the effect is GREATLY reduced.
Folks who shoot a bow like a shotgun, usually do shoot better without a stabilizer... it allows them to manhandle the bow to the bullseye and punch the trigger right as it gets there. I shot this way for years and I thought I was the poop because I was deadly on game and pretty good at 3D also.
BUT, when I started shooting spots... I hit a brick wall. I'd shoot 275-280 out of 300... and I'd never EVER improve more than a point or two... and sometimes I'd crater down even farther. So after ten years of 'drive by shooting' I started to retrain myself a bit, and I've steadily gotten better in the two and a half years since. I notice that when I'm making good shots... I am really shooting well... and when I get a bad result... I usually know right off it was me punching or pulling a bit.
I've also gone to a 10-11" stabilizer... and trust me... it helps....
I'm not nockin' drive by shooting here... for strictly a hunter... its not a bad way to go... and sometimes you have to force the release when you are hunting... but if you are serious about improving your shooting (which means shooting better on the hunt too of course), then you need to quit that drive by mess.
I am a big fan of doinker stabs... sadly they aren't making the chubby hunters anymore in any length. A 6" Chubby hunter is what I've used for the past two years and once they get production rolling again, I'll have a 11.5" field stab that I think I'll really like.
This is a factual statement-I have shot spot indoors for years. Drive by shooting is a form of target panic.
#7

After holding for 30 seconds per shot, id say you could only shoot a few times per practice.
So, as swamp collie said(and I agree 100% with everything he said because I as well was a puncher and now im a 300 50x average shooter) you need to do whats best for what fits your needs.
If you are complacent with the method you are using, then I would say take the stab off and run with it if that shows the best results. If you want to get better, a new shot routine is going to be in order, as well as a good bit of practice.
Taking off or adding a 5" s-coil off shouldnt effect anyones accuracy much at all. They are mainly vibration dampeners designed to reduce noise and vibration. Also, the speed gain or loss is just your imagination. Your bows energy transfer is no different than it was with the s-coil. Even the limb dampeners rarely change the speed much if any at all and they are placed on the limbs! The lost energy throughout the bow is now going throughout the components more since you have taken the s-coil off though... So in theory its probably a bit louder with a bit more vibration, although you may not be able to tell it.
Not trying to be harsh etc, just trying to help you out.